what mods are NEEDED for freeride 66e?

[WaveDemon]

what mods are NEEDED for freeride 66e?


I want my 66e to be a better motor than my current DIY big bore (61x case with 86mm 760 cylinder) from the beginning and mod from there. Getting your hands on this motor and then getting it to work/fit in a SJ is expensive (to me). I need the motor mods to be as cheap as possible to get this project going. I’ll mod more later as funds allow.

To keep this project cheap I’m going to adapt a b-pipe to fit the 66e, make my own upright mounting kit, use the stock sj tank and 144 pump with tbm cone and mag impellors (most likely)

I’ve got a stock 66e with a new top end on it. I understand that this motor isn’t set up for low end from the factory.

I’m trying to avoid new pistons/sleeves/nikasil plating/aftermarket ignition

What I’m thinking of doing to keep things cheap (machine work is cheap for me right now):
Cut stock head for 93 octane gas.
And/or
Lower port timing by milling the bottom of the cylinders and making reliefs in the stock head.
or
Look for 2 good used gp1300 cylinders and pistons


I’m open to port timing advice, I’ve got a single gp1300r cylinder that needs a bore that I can take port timing from as a guide if not.


Any advise or words of warning from you guys?

 

[oxnard111]

No advice here, but what is "nikasil plating"?

 

[Roo]

what are the gp1300 cylinders referred to as?

what is the bore on them... powervalves... 78 stroke? also port timing as good as 66v (for low end freestyle)?

sounds like the two of us are chasing down the same dream...

 

[the only couch rider]

No advice here, but what is "nikasil plating"?

cylinder wall coating on newer yamaha motors

what are the gp1300 cylinders referred to as?

what is the bore on them... powervalves... 78 stroke? also port timing as good as 66v (for low end freestyle)?

sounds like the two of us are chasing down the same dream...

60T are what the 1300R cylinders are referred to as :biggrin:

 

[Roo]

cylinder wall coating on newer yamaha motors



60T are what the 1300R cylinders are referred to as :biggrin:

thanks dude :headbang: i just read it in that Jap 1000cc 66E thread a few minutes ago. couldn't remember...

what is the bore/stroke/timing compared to that of the 66V and do they come with PV's?

-Andrew

 

[Big Kahuna]

I dont think that there is a cheap way to do this.......... But, not saying it cant be done, an adapter for the B Pipe manifold would not be that hard unless the spacing is way out of wack........ If so, then you could have some issues........

 

[SuperJETT]

It's a 10mm stroker stock, bottom end should be just fine even if the porting isn't ideal for bottom end. It was built to get a heavy sitdown moving and does it pretty well, so I'm sure it can handle a ski that weighs 2/3 what the GP800 does.

 

[the only couch rider]

i know for closed course the prt timing was preferable on the 800 cylinders over the 1200 cylinder.... i know of some guys running the 800 cylinders on stock class boats in the 800 class because of the difference in port timing

also it was a cheap way of being competitive in superstock without the expenses of a heavily ported cylinder

 

[WaveDemon]

I dont think that there is a cheap way to do this.......... But, not saying it cant be done, an adapter for the B Pipe manifold would not be that hard unless the spacing is way out of wack........ If so, then you could have some issues........

A thick adapter plate to clear the power valves is what we're doing. there seems to be a bit of a bolt alignment issue that we need to solve. definatly possible though.

 

[#ZERO]

what are the gp1300 cylinders referred to as?

what is the bore on them... powervalves... 78 stroke? also port timing as good as 66v (for low end freestyle)?

sounds like the two of us are chasing down the same dream...

The GP1300 60T cylinders are 84mm size with the 78mm stroke and come with power valves on the early models but the later ones don't have the P.V's.

Not sure about the port timing specs yet but I'm sure that it could be altered by changing the cylinder height.

 

[WaveDemon]

Not sure about the port timing specs yet .

coming soon with your help :woot:

 

[surferdude345]

i doubt you would want to mess with niasil and make sure you get those clip things those pvs are proned to drop and when they do its real messy, this summeri saw a couple of the 1200 motors drop pvs its not too pretty

 

[#ZERO]

coming soon with your help :woot:

No problem bro just bring all your cylinders with the matching pistons and we'll check them all to see what going to give you the most bottom end power.

Also you shouldn't rule out installing big bore sleeves as an option just yet because they can be installed at different heights to change your port timing as well.

 

[Big Kahuna]

A thick adapter plate to clear the power valves is what we're doing. there seems to be a bit of a bolt alignment issue that we need to solve. definatly possible though.

make the plate thick enough and countersink Allen head bolds to mount the plate to the cylinders, then drill and tap for FPP manifold attachment points.

 

[cambo au]

make the plate thick enough and countersink Allen head bolds to mount the plate to the cylinders, then drill and tap for FPP manifold attachment points.

that is what i did on a small block chev to use a 2 inch primary as the 2 inch pipe gets in the way of the origional bolts worked awsome no probs
if the alingment lines up with like half a bolt make two plates with counter sunk holes one for the cylinder one for the exhaust manifold both a little bigger and bolt around the outside if that maks sence

 

[ROTATION]

This is from experience with a WB800, gave it huge bottom end, it would jump out of the water from standing start
Change carbs to Novis/FS, VF2's and change main part of exhaust.
The exhaust is the only relatively hard part, you can use the header up to the first junction and then you need to fabricate the rest. I still have the specs if you can get someone to make it.

 

[WaveDemon]

This is from experience with a WB800, gave it huge bottom end, it would jump out of the water from standing start
Change carbs to Novis/FS, VF2's and change main part of exhaust.
The exhaust is the only relatively hard part, you can use the header up to the first junction and then you need to fabricate the rest. I still have the specs if you can get someone to make it.

it would be great if you could get the specs on that.

I did notice that a blaster mod pipe fits nicely to the first section of the stock exhaust. :smokin:

 

[shepster]

Now this is getting interesting, il be lurking on this one :brap:

 

[WaveDemon]

After reading some posts and thinking about what I’m wanting to do, here is how I’m leaning today. I’ll cut the stock head for higher compression and drop the stock 66e in there and get the adapter plate for the b-pipe worked out. Using a b pipe means I need to get the motor upright (my current project, $399 or $459 from waterdawg is to much). While I have the head off we’ll measure the port timing of the 66e, 66v (I just won a cylinder last night) and the junk non PV 1300r (60T?) that tom21 has at his shop.

Does anyone have a junk 1300r piston to donate?

Rotation, I still want whatever info you have using parts of the stock exhaust as that’s another option I’d like to pursue.

 

[ROTATION]

B-pipe manifold/header is a bit small needs porting for 66E