650/X-2 What should I do to my stock x2 ?

I just got a 1990 x2 and it is pretty much all stock. I was wondering what Could I do to it to make it more powerful with as lease amount as money as possible and still have the ski really reliable?
 

Sospikey

Trying to get upside down
Location
Sweden
Do you have "some " money or "no" money? More power can be obtained in 2 ways; more hp or less weight. If I got another X2 I would:
Chop the hull about 2"
Remove fuel selector and trim assy. by the bars
Change out the bars
Remove the oil injection and tank
Get a scoop grate
D-cut the oem ride plate

Then get a large 38 or 40 Keihin carb from a never Kawi 650. Mill the head, try to get a pipe (spend as much as you can afford) and a S/S impeller. Also drill out the oem waterbox.
All these mods can be had fairly cheap and gives the X2 some better punch!
 
Location
dfw
I just got a 1990 x2 and it is pretty much all stock. I was wondering what Could I do to it to make it more powerful with as lease amount as money as possible and still have the ski really reliable?

I cant see anyway to make it enough better without spending as much as the ski is worth as it sits. And that is if you already know exactly what you need. For basic power you need a pipe, a low pitched prop with a good deep scoop grate, and a stock carb from a 1991-1995 X2. please do not modify the stock waterbox. That will cost at least $500 used. Triple that for new parts. If you plan on keeping it a full inspection of all parts will be required to gauge the skis overall condition.
 
Sospikey, I don't want to do anything too intence like chopping into the hull but I think For sure I am getting rid of the oil injection. I am looking in to pipes right now, What do you think is the best pipe out there? I think my bars are all ready changed out. Also what kind of intake grate and ride plate is the best for mostly low end torque with good top end handling? I mostly like to do freestyle but every once and awhile I see how fast I can go.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Upgrade to a UMI/Accusteer or modify the stock steering. Chop the back 1-3". 1" is chop only no glass work needed. Do a nose fill ($50 if you shape it yourself) or $150 if you buy the fill from Tom21. Add sponsons, just buy those from Tom21 they are a lot harder to make than the nose fill.

If keeping the 650 motor you can upgrade to a mikuni Carb <$100, get a AM pipe maybe coffman's <$200, go a AM prop stainless depends on your motor <$120, AM intake grate + ride plate <$80 ea. You can upgrade to a larger motor which is easy but fitting in the pipes for a larger motor is a real pain in the ass.

Pick which ones you like the best...

Best performance upgrades are pipe and prop.

Best handling upgrade for the price is cut the back 1" (free). Steering is most expensive if you go AM but very cheap if you just modify the stock steering.
 
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Okay My plan is to do a prop, head, pipe, ride plate, and intake grate. From what it looks like that stuff will get my x2 going good and I found a x2 salvage ski with blone motor with all the aftermarket parts on it that I could just swap all of it to my ski over to my ski. Do you think that $100 x2 salvage ski is worth it to pull out all the aftermarket parts off of it?
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
if it has over $100 in parts, grab it and part it out for your needs and sell the rest
or fill you garage with parts like the rest of us ; )
 

Sospikey

Trying to get upside down
Location
Sweden
Upgrade to a UMI/Accusteer or modify the stock steering. Chop the back 1-3". 1" is chop only no glass work needed. Do a nose fill ($50 if you shape it yourself) or $150 if you buy the fill from Tom21. Add sponsons, just buy those from Tom21 they are a lot harder to make than the nose fill.

If keeping the 650 motor you can upgrade to a mikuni Carb <$100, get a AM pipe maybe coffman's <$200, go a AM prop stainless depends on your motor <$120, AM intake grate + ride plate <$80 ea. You can upgrade to a larger motor which is easy but fitting in the pipes for a larger motor is a real pain in the ass.

Pick which ones you like the best...

Best performance upgrades are pipe and prop.

Best handling upgrade for the price is cut the back 1" (free). Steering is most expensive if you go AM but very cheap if you just modify the stock steering.
Vumad pretty much nailed it with this answer. Do pick up that other ski if has at least one a/m part you like. Part out the rest.
 

Sospikey

Trying to get upside down
Location
Sweden
Sospikey, I don't want to do anything too intence like chopping into the hull but I think For sure I am getting rid of the oil injection. I am looking in to pipes right now, What do you think is the best pipe out there? I think my bars are all ready changed out. Also what kind of intake grate and ride plate is the best for mostly low end torque with good top end handling? I mostly like to do freestyle but every once and awhile I see how fast I can go.

I have really only tried the d-cut stocker, I like it. My grate is a Mariner non-scoop grate. Some people have problems with ripped out inserts when using the deep-double scoop grates.
Most people will tell you that the Factory Pipe 650 pipe is THE pipe. I've seen a lot of builds with either a Superjet or Waveblaster Factory pipe which are supposed to be even better. All of these go for high $.

Almost forgot; please mod the steering for more throw. You do this under the handlebars (inside the hull) and also modify the steering nozzle. This will make the ski more flickable.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
What should I do to the hood?

At the very least remove the forward facing intake scoop. It forces water into the intake holes. There are several different ways to mod the hood. Some people just shave them for a look. Anything you can mod the hood to help keep water out is an improvement. The X2 is very bad at keeping water out and it all has to do with the hood. Whatever you do, try to leave the foam in the hood. The foam helps displace the water and w/o it when the ski flips over it is less likely to flip itself back on it's own. That's pretty important since the ski is very unlikely to flip back over as it is and on top of that the bad hood seal and air intakes let water in very very fast.

Do a search or click the X2 mods sticky. There are lots of people who have modded in different ways. I myself just ripped the hood scoop off and that alone reduced the water in the hull when turning left and doing subs.

I removed the foam from the hood I run at the lake, but I use a different hood that does have foam in the surf. The foam with the waves helps the ski right itself, and the extra foam helps keep it from going to the bottom when it sinks (your X2 will at some point sink, they all do).
 
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please do not modify the stock waterbox. That will cost at least $500 used. Triple that for new parts. If you plan on keeping it a full inspection of all parts will be required to gauge the skis overall condition.

Modding the stock waterbox is a great idea and very cheap and easy to do. Unless you struggle with power tools, in which case you probably shouldn't be riding.
 
SO got the picture but I forgot to take some of the motor but this has every thing done to it besides handle bars , porting and polishing. But it is good enough for me! I am only 16 so for a 16 year old I think I am sitting good.

What do you do to the water box? I might think about doing that later on.
 

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Sospikey

Trying to get upside down
Location
Sweden
I think it was twinturbostang who did a really informative piece on that. Check the X2 section, I think under modifications, it's a sticky.
 
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