What would you do

[lcgordon]

Hey guys cracked my 92 superjet tray tonight and wondering what you guys would do? I know I need to cut the tray, defoam, new foam and fiberglass it up. But it’s also summer time. I was kinda wondering about drilling some small holes in the bottom of the ski in the back to let it drain then epoxy they small holes then doing some quick fiberglass mat to get the ski on the water for the rest of the summer. Then In the winter do the full process. I do have a weekend coming up that my wife is gone that I would work on the ski the whole time. Could I get it all done in a weekend? Would you guys do that?

Also I was struggling today with water getting in the motor. Seemed like every time you tipped the ski or dunked it a tad it ran like crap until the water ran back out of the ski. I did not seem to have this issue the last time I rode the ski. Which was also the first time since I just bought it. It is the stock 650 with a kn filter on it.
Thanks

 

[mthomps]

I dont think youll like my answer...its a 92 sn? Screw it dude. Ride the hell out of it. Unless you modify the hood a little known secret know one wants to talk about is that these things drink water.

My advice is leave it alone and maybe learn to ride it better. As long as you dry out the motor youre good.

Watkins and his crew used to swamp there crap on purpose to see who could make it run the quickest

 

[lcgordon]

I dont think youll like my answer...its a 92 sn? Screw it dude. Ride the hell out of it. Unless you modify the hood a little known secret know one wants to talk about is that these things drink water.

My advice is leave it alone and maybe learn to ride it better. As long as you dry out the motor youre good.

Watkins and his crew used to swamp there crap on purpose to see who could make it run the quickest

Yeah it just seems to have more issues than I had last time and I have the exact same ski back home same set up and it does not do this Quite this bad. Oh well I guess. Is there anything easy I could try. Was thinking new plugs because I never changed them from when I got the ski. Also do the frog skin things work at all? I need a better bilge set up. But I was sucking in water when almost none was in the ski.

Anyways big question the tray what to do.

 

[kevbo]

The hood base is right next to the carb. Any water in the hull will be funneled directly into any aftermarket flame arrestor. You can install tha stock F/A or make a guard for the K&N. As far as the foam goes, I like to drill some small holes and suck it dry with a vacuum pump. Most riders like to do it the hard way. Generally speaking, jetski owners do not do maintenance! So you have a lot of work to do in order to get the ski in shape.

 

[mthomps]

Well if it were my ski first thing would be hood liner and make sure its not junk. You can have a crap hood liner. Good way to save weight is take it off. I reccomend running one tho. Hit up jetmaniac for that.

As far as the tray goes unless the thing us falling apart i would leave it alone. Its probably been waterlogged for years.

Im not gonna tell you not to refoam but its gonna cost you 50 hours or more and if youre lucky it will stay dry for a few years. Thats why everyone installs drain plugs. If you do it it will be a lot of work

 

[lcgordon]

The hood base is right next to the carb. Any water in the hull will be funneled directly into any aftermarket flame arrestor. You can install tha stock F/A or make a guard for the K&N. As far as the foam goes, I like to drill some small holes and suck it dry with a vacuum pump. Most riders like to do it the hard way. Generally speaking, jetski owners do not do maintenance! So you have a lot of work to do in order to get the ski in shape.

The back air inlet still has the tube connected to it. The front one does not. How would one make a protector for the k&n? Looks like some stock fa on eBay are 100 bucks. Kinda a lot of money for this junker ski pretty much.

Where do you drill the holes to vaccum it out? Also can I just install at drain right in the backs without deforming? Then just fiberglass the crack up and run it?

 

[mthomps]

First off run a stock piece of plastic on your carb. Get that k n crap out of there and run stock flame arrestor. It might be a tad bit better. But I know when i went back to stock the only difference was my ski inhaled much less water.

I wouldnt bother screwing with drain plugs unless you do the re foam dog and pony show. 99 percent of people thay do it use the pink stuff and they cut it all up to get as much in as possible. I dont think youll gain anything drilling holes in a stock boat.

And once you cut, refoam, seal it, install plugs, pray to whatever god you dig...it wont float. Very likely in a disaster scenario the ski is gone

 

[lcgordon]

First off run a stock piece of plastic on your carb. Get that k n crap out of there and run stock flame arrestor. It might be a tad bit better. But I know when i went back to stock the only difference was my ski inhaled much less water.

I wouldnt bother screwing with drain plugs unless you do the re foam dog and pony show. 99 percent of people thay do it use the pink stuff and they cut it all up to get as much in as possible. I dont think youll gain anything drilling holes in a stock boat.

And once you cut, refoam, seal it, install plugs, pray to whatever god you dig...it wont float. Very likely in a disaster scenario the ski is gone

Thanks I will look for a new stock fa. Maybe somebody on here has one.

I need to fix the tray crack at last. I’m sure it has so much water in it and I would like to drain it out. What is the best way? Just drill small holes in the back then epoxy them up and run it?

 

[mthomps]

Well it sounds like you want to cut but just know once the grinder hits the tray youve either got junk or a project. For what youll gain in my opinion isnt worth the hassle. In my minimal free time id rather ride a pig superjet i know will float if i screw up rather than work on it. Even tho i keep the ole 10mill in the truck. Lol.

Everyone is different but id rather ride the piss out of my 30 year old superjet then turn wrenches and hope for the best

 

[lcgordon]

Well it sounds like you want to cut but just know once the grinder hits the tray youve either got junk or a project. For what youll gain in my opinion isnt worth the hassle. In my minimal free time id rather ride a pig superjet i know will float if i screw up rather than work on it. Even tho i keep the ole 10mill in the truck. Lol.

Everyone is different but id rather ride the piss out of my 30 year old superjet then turn wrenches and hope for the best

I’m not talking about cutting and deforming. Just laying some glass over the huge crack. Also figured I should try to drain some of the water out if I can. Figured some small holes in the back of the ski then do quick epoxy on them, just a small drill bit would be all.

 

[SexPanther]

flex tape her up and keep on shredding!!! Yeeewwwwww

 

[lcgordon]

flex tape her up and keep on shredding!!! Yeeewwwwww

I don’t like the feeling of standing on the crack and it’s right where I stand. I’m not scared to do some fiberglass so I’m going to fix it. Now just wondering if I put in drains air drain it once with holes and patch. Idk what’s best.

 

[kevbo]

The number one problem with these skis is that they aren't made anymore and they are getting more difficult to find. How long do you plan to stay with this hobby? Whats is your annual budget? If you are in it for a while then the ski it may be worth saving. Most of the parts will fit newer hulls so nothing is lost when you move up . I have a 30 year old Superjet that's been in the family since new. It gets taken completely apart and repaired every few years. At this rate it will still be around 10-20 years from now. The old square is easy to break, my riding group destroyed many along the way. I give this one a little care and respect.

 

[lcgordon]

The number one problem with these skis is that they aren't made anymore and they are getting more difficult to find. How long do you plan to stay with this hobby? Whats is your annual budget? If you are in it for a while then the ski it may be worth saving. Most of the parts will fit newer hulls so nothing is lost when you move up . I have a 30 year old Superjet that's been in the family since new. It gets taken completely apart and repaired every few years. At this rate it will still be around 10-20 years from now. The old square is easy to break, my riding group destroyed many along the way. I give this one a little care and respect.

Hope to have this ski a while. It’s not in perfect shape. But it’s not bad. Goal is to swap a 701 in it at some point. The 650 compared to my previous skis is pretty slow. But it’s enough to have some fun.

I think I’m going to first try to just lay some fiberglass on the tray to fix the crack. I needed to returf anyways. The old stuff is so slick. If I have problems with the ski then I can try to drain it. Pre crack it was not leaking a much in the garage floor but this morning there is a huge puddle out there. Would rather that not be the case every time. But eventually the non foam soaked water should leave out and if I fix the crack it should be just as good as it was before.

 

[Quinc]

Throw a cheap piece of turf on the tray to get you through the summer and start reading and looking at threads where people defoamed/refoamed and make a plan. I think if I did it again I would try a pressure washer and blasting the foam out. You will be surprised at how much better the sj handles and rides with a 650 and new foam. (I pulled 30+ pounds of wet foam out of my tray). You can also widen the tray and/or footholds etc.

 

[lcgordon]

Throw a cheap piece of turf on the tray to get you through the summer and start reading and looking at threads where people defoamed/refoamed and make a plan. I think if I did it again I would try a pressure washer and blasting the foam out. You will be surprised at how much better the sj handles and rides with a 650 and new foam. (I pulled 30+ pounds of wet foam out of my tray). You can also widen the tray and/or footholds etc.

What is the realistic time frame for the whole process? I’m not scared of cutting it or the fiberglassing it back. The defoaming process is hard to judge on how long it takes. My plan I think would be to also use the pink foam board. I have another set of turf already. I think I wanna seal it back up with some fiberglass mat for the summer. I just worry about doing all the work then it not even be sealed perfect and wasting my time.

 

[lcgordon]

If you just need to hack your way till the end of the Season:

1) Install Electric Bilge Pump System

2) Fiberglass in a Section of Plastic Sheet or Plywood over the Cracked Tray Section

4 Hours worth of work max for the Hacks.

40 Hours for the Entire Defoam/Refoam Project.

P.S. Don't forget the Duct Tape!

P.S. #2: Bionic Racing Old School Hack is to drill two small Holes in the Lower Transom for Drains. Install Screws with Silicone while riding. Remove Screws to drain with Ski tipped. Rinse and Repeat.

I like this thanks. I think I will do a quick fix with some fiberglass for the summer. I’m not sure if I should do the screw trick or not. I would rather not have to do the defoam but I can make that decision in the winter I guess.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

They make a product called expanded PVC, I use it on ski repairs a lot mainly for rebuilding rub rails, I would buy a sheet of it 1/4" thick and then epoxy it to the old floor, epoxy sticks to it really well if you scuff the surface first, then you can add a layer of glass on top of that and have a good foundation till you can do it properly this winter, when it comes time this Winter you can cut the whole thing out and start over.

The name really doesn't tell you what it is , it is much harder than any type of foam but it's not hard like PVC pipe , somewhere in between the two. Basically you would be making a new foam core floor.

If you don't have a local plastics supplier you can buy it off of ebay relatively cheap.

Expanded Pvc Sheet for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Expanded Pvc Sheet at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

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[OtherDonnieGuy]

If the foam isn't soupy...Slap a quick patch of fiberglass on the crack to make it comfortable and keep riding. You wont dry the foam out enough to matter anyways, nor will it soak up water that fast anyways. Just do a quick fix and enjoy it, then make a project out of it come winter.

I rode my first squarenose all season with a busted up tray. When winter came and I pulled the turf off, peices of the tray came with it. Foam Wasn't hardly wet at all, and I rode a lot that summer!

 

[lcgordon]

They make a product called expanded PVC, I use it on ski repairs a lot mainly for rebuilding rub rails, I would buy a sheet of it 1/4" thick and then epoxy it to the old floor, epoxy sticks to it really well if you scuff the surface first, then you can add a layer of glass on top of that and have a good foundation till you can do it properly this winter, when it comes time this Winter you can cut the whole thing out and start over.

The name really doesn't tell you what it is , it is much harder than any type of foam but it's not hard like PVC pipe , somewhere in between the two. Basically you would be making a new foam core floor.

If you don't have a local plastics supplier you can buy it off of ebay relatively cheap.

Expanded Pvc Sheet for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Expanded Pvc Sheet at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

www.ebay.com

Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to try to fix it like this. I will call us composites today and ask them what I need as far as resin and mat.

I did also buy a stock f/a off eBay, watcon hood seal and new bilge pump. It has a rule 500 automatic but the auto part was not working if I took the hood off and unplugged it and re plugged it it would work. I bought one that I can run to a switch.