Where do we post "help" questions?

S

Super7

Location
Portland
johnmarchetta34 said:
What is wrong with it?
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Well, I bought a new 1100 Dasa shortblock and found that I had water entering the engine—quite a bit collected in the crank case. At the same time I converted to a laydown pipe (wish I didn’t at this point) I’m also having an issue with the bendix not engaging 25% of the time. The Jetinetics flywheel is perfect from what I can tell—wondering if I installed the washer(s) wrong.
I installed new o rings on the domes and head—not tested since though. I bought a new Yamaha bendix—will try that. Just wondering if I’m missing something.
Thanks for your help.
 
WFO Speedracer

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Super7 said:
Well, I bought a new 1100 Dasa shortblock and found that I had water entering the engine—quite a bit collected in the crank case. At the same time I converted to a laydown pipe (wish I didn’t at this point) I’m also having an issue with the bendix not engaging 25% of the time. The Jetinetics flywheel is perfect from what I can tell—wondering if I installed the washer(s) wrong.
I installed new o rings on the domes and head—not tested since though. I bought a new Yamaha bendix—will try that. Just wondering if I’m missing something.
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
How does the flywheel ring gear look, the thing about ring gears is the bendix only engages them in two spots 180 degrees from each other, over time it wears those teeth down and when the flywheel comes around to that spot it kicks out or it never engages correctly to start with.
 
Kohldanielzimmer

Kohldanielzimmer

Sierra Nevada Runoff Rider
Site Supporter
Location
Ahwahnee, CA
Super7 said:
Well, I bought a new 1100 Dasa shortblock and found that I had water entering the engine—quite a bit collected in the crank case. At the same time I converted to a laydown pipe (wish I didn’t at this point) I’m also having an issue with the bendix not engaging 25% of the time. The Jetinetics flywheel is perfect from what I can tell—wondering if I installed the washer(s) wrong.
I installed new o rings on the domes and head—not tested since though. I bought a new Yamaha bendix—will try that. Just wondering if I’m missing something.
Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

1 large washer behind bendix. 2 small washers on each side of the small spring that sits in stator cover.

You probably have a bad bendix or starter.

How’s that crank after seeing water ingestion?
 
Big Kahuna

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
What waterbox are you running, water in your cases is going to be from the Pipe back flushing water back to your exhaust ports. You need a waterbox with a high Exit or High Inlet. Believe the Powerfactor Box works better than the RRP.(RRP is bad about this). You can make your hose turn upwords after the waterbox then angle back down, This will act as a baffle to keep the water from doing this. Someone I think came out with a silicone hose that does this for you........
 
WFO Speedracer

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
This is just my opinion, it is however correct because it has been proven over the years, those starter bendixes were originally designed for 650 Yamaha and Kawi engines, then they just kept going bigger with the engines , they still did ok in Yamaha 800's but when they put them in Seadoo 951's they were pretty much maxed out, the 951's tore up starter clutches and spit out starter clutch parts.

They use the same bendix in the Kawi and Yamaha triples but the triple engines do not load the bendix nearly as hard as a big twin does .
 
S

Super7

Location
Portland
Big Kahuna said:
What waterbox are you running, water in your cases is going to be from the Pipe back flushing water back to your exhaust ports. You need a waterbox with a high Exit or High Inlet. Believe the Powerfactor Box works better than the RRP.(RRP is bad about this). You can make your hose turn upwords after the waterbox then angle back down, This will act as a baffle to keep the water from doing this. Someone I think came out with a silicone hose that does this for you........
Click to expand...
Well, the Power Factor waterbox did not fit so I’m running the RRP—again, I regret making the conversion. Before I put the engine back in I will try to source that “hose” you think someone makes.
Thanks for the help.
 
S

Super7

Location
Portland
WFO Speedracer said:
How does the flywheel ring gear look, the thing about ring gears is the bendix only engages them in two spots 180 degrees from each other, over time it wears those teeth down and when the flywheel comes around to that spot it kicks out or it never engages correctly to start with.
Click to expand...
That is very interesting and something I didn’t know. I assumed the flywheel would stop in a different location every time. I’m still a bit confused…
 
S

Super7

Location
Portland
Half flip95 said:
if you can ride around without stopping or falling and are still getting water in the engine my guess would be a leaking exhaust manifold gasket.
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That thought crossed my mind as well because when I did the water test after I put the ski together I did not bail off it except for the time in the water putting it back on the trailer. Heck, maybe I won’t have it ready in time for Pismo.
I should have done more research on these setup’s before installing it as reversing the job is a bastard.
 
Roseand

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Just get the hose from TC freeride. Has the bend you need. Raise waterbox as much as you can.
Also, did the crankcase sit with water in it for any length of time or did you get it running asap and ride it hard to burn off moisture?
 
S

Super7

Location
Portland
Roseand said:
Just get the hose from TC freeride. Has the bend you need. Raise waterbox as much as you can.
Also, did the crankcase sit with water in it for any length of time or did you get it running asap and ride it hard to burn off moisture?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the TC tip.
As for the water, it was well below the crank bearings. Not discovered until sitting for a week on my bench.
 
Roseand

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
If there was any amount of water in the crankcase, the rod bearings definitely came into contact with it. That is crazy long to leave water in a motor. I would absolutely AT LEAST pull the intake/carbs and inspect. If you don't, you have thousands at stake. It's highly likely you're gonna have issues if you ignore it. Could even have a rod saw through your hull. It's all possible. While you're at it you can pressure test the cooling system too.
 
S

Super7

Location
Portland
Roseand said:
If there was any amount of water in the crankcase, the rod bearings definitely came into contact with it. That is crazy long to leave water in a motor. I would absolutely AT LEAST pull the intake/carbs and inspect. If you don't, you have thousands at stake. It's highly likely you're gonna have issues if you ignore it. Could even have a rod saw through your hull. It's all possible. While you're at it you can pressure test the cooling system too.
Click to expand...
I pulled the intake off, left the head off and liberally lubed everything with 2 stroke oil—it sat opened up like that for a month or so before reassembly. That obviously would not matter if it was rusted but the rod bearing looked perfectly fine.

Fingers crossed.
 
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