Who does high quality Aluminum repair?

[brapperdoodle]

My handlepole bracket on the Krash was stripped badly on multiple holes for the mounting. I got a helicoil set for M8x1.25 and bought a new drill bit. I drilled the holes out nicely and to the correct depth, and started to tap the holes. I’ve used all kinds of taps and dies for 20 years and I’ve never had one do this. I oiled the tap and started it in the hole. It felt normal going in, but nearly locked solid when I started to back it out. It pulled the threads out that it had just cut… I tried another 2 holes before realizing the new tap in the helicoil set had a burr on the end of it that was just dragging all the way out. Anyways, I don’t feel like buying key lock inserts to fix this and would like someone that knows how to properly repair it. Can somebody tell me who can fill these holes and re-tap them? I ordered a new bracket through JS Powersports almost 2 months ago and there is no telling when it will show up or if it will fit property. Krash has a proprietary size handlepole bracket and SJ spacing does not fit.

 

[joeschuit]

As a machinist and ok welder, I don't think welding and retapping them is a good idea. The aluminum filler rod will be a bit softer than the 6061 those are probably made of, and there's no way to get a good depth of weld into those holes without opening them up. I'd suggest having them timeserted properly or have new blocks made and start fresh.

 

[Harbor]

From the pic’s, It looks like there’s enough wall thickness to go 10x1.25 heli coil’s instead ? And run 10x1.25 cap screws ?

 

[Sandeggo]

Me personally, I’d either make new tabs, or I’d bevel each side and tig weld it to the base plate. I welded my homemade bracket.

 

[brapperdoodle]

I can go to M12x1.5 and get a key lock insert that is an M8x1.25. The problem with using another size bolt is that it uses a hex drive flat head to hold the blocks onto the plate. I think with a larger size bolt, the head would stick past the mounting surface. I wouldn't mind it being welded together permanently but I would still need to tap the holes on the outside for mounting it to the hull. Im open to whatever gets me on the water!!!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

As has already been said you can't weld up a hole like that with a tig, I used to have a lot of Seadoo exhaust manifolds repaired where bolts had broken off , my tig guy would cut the whole corner of the manifold off and rebuild it.

 

[Harbor]

I can go to M12x1.5 and get a key lock insert that is an M8x1.25. The problem with using another size bolt is that it uses a hex drive flat head to hold the blocks onto the plate. I think with a larger size bolt, the head would stick past the mounting surface. I wouldn't mind it being welded together permanently but I would still need to tap the holes on the outside for mounting it to the hull. Im open to whatever gets me on the water!!!

Oh got it…. My fab guy took care of an issue I had with a pump this way…. He machined an aluminum rod and threaded it like a bolt, used it to fill those holes, surfaced it flat, then drilled and tapped to correct size… I can give you his info by PM… you’d be using USPS or your preferred for shipping…

Let me see if I have a pic later….

My hull has thru bolts, could you change the design to thru bolt instead.. bolts are installed from inside hull, thru a backer plate, thru the hull, then threw your base and then into your uprights?

Can’t remember if mine has a backer plate on the under side in hull or not, could check

 

[Storbeck]

I would be looking into larger thread inserts due to concerns about welding affecting the temper of the aluminum, plus damaging the anodizing.

Another $.02 from a random guy on the internet.

 

[sturat]

i can put you in contact with my buddy aaron in florida who routinely does fantastic work. shoot me a PM if you want his number.

 

[Harbor]

Oh got it…. My fab guy took care of an issue I had with a pump this way…. He machined an aluminum rod and threaded it like a bolt, used it to fill those holes, surfaced it flat, then drilled and tapped to correct size… I can give you his info by PM… you’d be using USPS or your preferred for shipping…

Let me see if I have a pic later….

My hull has thru bolts, could you change the design to thru bolt instead.. bolts are installed from inside hull, thru a backer plate, thru the hull, then threw your base and then into your uprights?

Can’t remember if mine has a backer plate on the under side in hull or not, could check

Here is what I’am talking about… holes drilled larger and rethreaded, fill hole with aluminum threaded rod, resurface and redrill on center back to 8x1.25

 

[brapperdoodle]

My hull has thru bolts, could you change the design to thru bolt instead.. bolts are installed from inside hull, thru a backer plate, thru the hull, then threw your base and then into your uprights?

What I said was confusing, Mine bolts from the inside under the bracket, through a backing plate, through hull, and through the base into the uprights. Pretty normal. The uprights on the bracket are held to the upper plate with flat head M8 under the upper base, not through the lower backing plate. That filler rod looks like a very smart repair! I will look into that and see what I can figure out

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I did something similar on a set of Seadoo Rossier eng 657 cylinders, I drilled the holes larger and pressed in aluminum rod with red locktite then redrilled it to fit a 720 engine pattern the threaded rod would of course be a better option Mcmaster Carr has aluminum rods in sizes up to 3/4" 6061 ALUMINUM with a B40 rockwell hardness

 

[brapperdoodle]

I did something similar on a set of Seadoo Rossier eng 657 cylinders, I drilled the holes larger and pressed in aluminum rod with red locktite then redrilled it to fit a 720 engine pattern the threaded rod would of course be a better option Mcmaster Carr has aluminum rods in sizes up to 3/4" 6061 ALUMINUM with a B40 rockwell hardness

Im on McMaster right now, What do you think would be a reasonable filler size... around 1/2" size threaded rod? Looks like the key lock inserts in 8-18SS are around $160 for the 8 inserts/drill bit/tool. The 1/2" rod is much cheaper haha.

 

[brapperdoodle]

Remind me again why a Time-sert won't work in this Case?

View attachment 426527

Haha, yeah I guess im just trying to build a Timesert. Do they make Stainless Timeserts?

 

[tomski]

Or just buy a new bracket and drill new mounting holes.

 

[Storbeck]

Is there room to simply drill the holes deeper at the original thread size? At least in the middle hole positions, then put a thread insert on the outer ones.

 

[fx1mark]

Haha, yeah I guess im just trying to build a Timesert. Do they make Stainless Timeserts?

Looks like they do. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...+timesert+m12&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15

 

[brapperdoodle]

Or just buy a new bracket and drill new mounting holes.

View attachment 426537

That would be ideal, but the mounting holes are very close to SJ spacing so I would need to fill in the holes and reinforce underneath. Even still, the new holes would be basically touching the old holes and I don't believe that would be as strong as just leaving it the way it is now. If the spacing were way off, I'd do it in a heartbeat.