Who makes the rachet strap?
- Thread starter djkorn1
- Start date
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
I have a ratchet strap setup from EJ. Nice system.. I did go with thinner webbing though. The thicker stuff slipped more on the ratchet while tightening.
It's a pita at first, but after a few rides, you really don't notice it anymore.
It's a pita at first, but after a few rides, you really don't notice it anymore.
feartheride
feartheride
- Location
- St.Catharines,On.Canada
wydopen
onthepipe
- Location
- Goleta the Goodland
these arnt just bungee cords from a hardware store..they have closed loops on the end..not jagged hooks to fillet your feet on..Wammer has also tested several different durometers of rubber to find one that works best...they mount to the handle pole bracket and then you hook them on two bolts installed on the dash
ive lost a hood with nylon style hoodstraps with a plastic buckle..broke the hoodlatch (it was stock) and both hood straps during a fall...but these bungee ones work great..i dont think its possible to loose a hood with these
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teton
tetongravity.com
- Location
- Washington DC
and hooking/unhooking them is very easy....I usually think wammers stuff is a little pricy but the $25 they cost was worth every penny....
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
I did. No reply. I guess I will just make one... There is no way I'm payin $100 from Blowsion.
make sure the ratchet you get has a wide enough base to use the old backing plate from the stock latch. then just line the backing plate up on the back of the ratchet mark the holes,and then drill them out. for the front mount i used the base from an old 440 hood strap had to grind the backing plate a bit to fit. drilled and mounted it below the handlepole mount in front. i spent a little over $20 on doing this and it turned out well and works great for me.
- Location
- Kennewick, WA
yeah I found the post when they first came out...they were going for $55 if i remember correctly. I pm'ed ej but never got any response back..and I'm sure as hell not going fork over $100 to blowsion either.
- Location
- Braapp factory
Heres how I made mine :-
The retaining strap allows the hood to be fitted and tensioned to a better effect than the stock latch - this also provides greater security if you land awkwardly and prevents the hood from being dislodged sideways.
to start you will need a stainless ratchet strap mechanism - you can get them in pairs from here (they arent cheap - but neither is your pride and joy as it takes water on - or your tricky hood sinking
http://www.topsandstrops.com/acatalog/Lightweight_Range.html
1. Remove the stock latch from the hull and hood.
2. I made a small blanking plate for the hood to cover the OEM holes up and make it look neater.
3. You will then need a method to attach the ratchet to the hull. I fabricated a plate up to pick up on the OEM holes(allowing me to revert to original set up if i want in future)
A. This was made from 10mm thick ally as i needed to clear my front foothole.
B. The block measures 50mm x 40mm - using a pencil transfer the holes from the OEM backing plate onto the block.
C. Drill 4 x 5.1mm holes for the bolts - counterbore these for the allen bolt heads.
D. place the block in place on the ski - line up the ratchet mechanism and mark through the 6mm hole with a pencil.
E. Drill out the hole 5mm, turn the block over and CSK to accept a 6mm bolt, then tap out a 6mm thread. Screw the CSK bolt in tight (i also used studlock)
F. Turn block back over and refit to the hull using 5mm cap heads(dont forget to fit backing plate before nuts inside the hull)
4.A. Cut the strap off the ratchet mechanism
B. lay it on your hood , mark out a Y shape ( this will depend on how far apart your fwd attachment bolts are)
C. mark the position with a felt pen (I then melted the ends with a blow torch to prevent them fraying) and have the two straps sewn together.
5. Fold the fwd ends back on themselves and have them stitched, then using a hot soldering iron "drill" holes fro the fwd bolts.
Then fasten the ratchet to the block made earlier with a 6mm stiff nut and penny washer.
The whole installation in place - The pole rope looks weedy , but it is actually kevlar reinforced 2000lbb breaking strain.
Im going to cover the ratchet somehow - it will probably involve hydroturf and velcro. Watch this space
The retaining strap allows the hood to be fitted and tensioned to a better effect than the stock latch - this also provides greater security if you land awkwardly and prevents the hood from being dislodged sideways.
to start you will need a stainless ratchet strap mechanism - you can get them in pairs from here (they arent cheap - but neither is your pride and joy as it takes water on - or your tricky hood sinking
http://www.topsandstrops.com/acatalog/Lightweight_Range.html
1. Remove the stock latch from the hull and hood.
2. I made a small blanking plate for the hood to cover the OEM holes up and make it look neater.
3. You will then need a method to attach the ratchet to the hull. I fabricated a plate up to pick up on the OEM holes(allowing me to revert to original set up if i want in future)
A. This was made from 10mm thick ally as i needed to clear my front foothole.
B. The block measures 50mm x 40mm - using a pencil transfer the holes from the OEM backing plate onto the block.
C. Drill 4 x 5.1mm holes for the bolts - counterbore these for the allen bolt heads.
D. place the block in place on the ski - line up the ratchet mechanism and mark through the 6mm hole with a pencil.
E. Drill out the hole 5mm, turn the block over and CSK to accept a 6mm bolt, then tap out a 6mm thread. Screw the CSK bolt in tight (i also used studlock)
F. Turn block back over and refit to the hull using 5mm cap heads(dont forget to fit backing plate before nuts inside the hull)
4.A. Cut the strap off the ratchet mechanism
B. lay it on your hood , mark out a Y shape ( this will depend on how far apart your fwd attachment bolts are)
C. mark the position with a felt pen (I then melted the ends with a blow torch to prevent them fraying) and have the two straps sewn together.
5. Fold the fwd ends back on themselves and have them stitched, then using a hot soldering iron "drill" holes fro the fwd bolts.
Then fasten the ratchet to the block made earlier with a 6mm stiff nut and penny washer.
The whole installation in place - The pole rope looks weedy , but it is actually kevlar reinforced 2000lbb breaking strain.
Im going to cover the ratchet somehow - it will probably involve hydroturf and velcro. Watch this space
Attachments
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
nice.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
I was looking in the Mcmaster catalog and they have stainless rachets for about $14.00 each they are for 3/4 to 1 inch straps just soze you knowz.
Etheraldreamer
Be there and be square.
- Location
- Spring Hill, FL
Keith, you should make a few of those kits and put them for sale. i would buy one in a heart beat. you've done it once im sure you could crank a few out a lot faster than the rest of us could do it for the first time. that is F*&$% CLEAN!!!!!
Etheraldreamer
Be there and be square.
- Location
- Spring Hill, FL
whats the part number on these? i accept that i may just be blind and retarded but i couldnt find them.
Foximus
CFL Cheapass.
- Location
- Oviedo, Fl
550 hull... $100
Stock strap that works amazing... Priceless.
Stock strap that works amazing... Priceless.
tbaer
USMC
- Location
- BEAUFORT SC
Tractor supply has stainless ratchets with black straps they are 4 for 29.95. that is where I got mine and it works great. I also covered the ratchet in turf
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brett
-------------
- Location
- Ventura,ca
just got my blowsion ratchet strap today
its pretty cool to have the kit -backing plates and the guide especially...
its pretty cool to have the kit -backing plates and the guide especially...
- Location
- South Florida
That is exactly the same as my E.J. system.