I'm just wondering how many guys are running the cold fusion coupler on these moster motors and light weight hulls, I was told by XM they aren't a fantastic idea because the stock coupler is a cheap weak point, so if something was too happen where the stock coupler would break the cold fusion coupler wouldn't causing much more damage down the line... Any merit to this point?
Freestyle Who Runs Cold Fusion Coupler
- Thread starter munki63
- Start date
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
ive ran them since day one. currently running them in my dasa 850
Penken
whoomp there it is!
- Location
- Umeå, Sweden
well bigger is better to 
i have a billet stock size coupler on my ski. so bigger and stronger must be the best. double backflips here i come!
i have a billet stock size coupler on my ski. so bigger and stronger must be the best. double backflips here i come!
well bigger is better to
i have a billet stock size coupler on my ski. so bigger and stronger must be the best. double backflips here i come!
Im going with the billet wetjet couplers also.
I run the cold fusion couplers with the blue intermediate dampener. The prefer the lighter weight and especially smaller diameter. Less rotational mass and closer to center of rotation. Also the smaller couplers dont catch and sling bilge water into your carbs or drag as much.
I agree. Yes, the oem couplers may blow out and prevent some stresses, but you will be dead in the water.
I dont want to be broken down in the surf.
well bigger is better to
i have a billet stock size coupler on my ski. so bigger and stronger must be the best. double backflips here i come!
In this case bigger is not better IMO. Heavier and larger diameter equals more rotational mass to spin up. Also more drag through bilge water.
- Location
- Lake Havasu City, AZ USA
Ran them for a couple years on a DASA 800 w/TL and they are awesome. Will be buying another set for my new ski.
Less weight and especially less rotational mass make a big difference on throttle response.
Its like comparing a TL flywheel vs. a stock wheel or lightened stock.
Less weight and especially less rotational mass make a big difference on throttle response.
Its like comparing a TL flywheel vs. a stock wheel or lightened stock.
- Location
- Fort Sask, AB
I think what XM was getting at was its better to break the coupler than to snap a drive shaft, crank end etc..
When does that actually happen though? Driveshafts will break no matter what, happened to me with stock couplers, too
- Location
- Texas
I run them, Remember righty tighty lefty loosey!!
- Location
- Fort Sask, AB
Agreed. If there is an event, like a lawn dart into the bottom, that is enough to break a coupler likely the driveshaft is going with it.. along with the motor mounts. I doubt yami factored surf re-entries into their engineering. This is where the CF stronger coupler is good, it will take more abuse from out of alignment flex from impact.
But if you stick the pump with a rock that stronger CF little rubber bumper only goes so far. I would think the design is to dampen the rotation, and kill the engine before everything else snaps. The shafts are hardened steel and wont flex before they instantaneously fail. So if the coupler and rubber dampener are stronger there is more force transferred into the mid and drive shaft.
The forces it takes to snap the shafts must be incredible.