- Location
- Ny
Why does my b pipe have a outlet instead of the water screw??
- Thread starter Brewdog22483
- Start date
- Location
- Ny
Oh thanks a lot for the help
- Location
- Ny
Yes that's a spray bar. Should be a jet. Is there anything else before the spray bar, in the cooling line? Like is there some sort of fitting?
Rushford_Ripper
Site Supporter
- Location
- New York
Looks like the small inlet hole acts as the jet to restrict water.
- Location
- Ny
Nope no fittings. That’s what I was thinking about the slit in the bottom. Will water spray out the top? Should I have that going to a pisser?
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
that's a Coffman spray bar made for their seadoo pipe.
I got a bunch of those and sold somebody a couple.
I wonder if those are them lol
when a spray bar is put in a b pipe, it supposed to be down at the 3 bolt flange, not where a screw used to be.
the spray bar stem has to seal the water jacket if its put in there or water just leaks into the chamber past the stem.
it seems like somebody either did a hillbilly fix or thought that was right and it aint.
the top screw gets closed when using water injection on a b pipe.
water injected as close to the ports as possible gives the best bottom end, which is why its put right at the 3 bolt flange, then shuts off at high rpm.
since that hole is way hogged out, i would tap it so a bolt screwed in there and i'd grind it to a point so it shut the water off when it was tightened.
with a jam nut on it, it could be adjusted just like the screw that is supposed to be in that hole.
you would have to make sure it sealed the bleed hole when shut and barely turn it to barely open it.
I got a bunch of those and sold somebody a couple.
I wonder if those are them lol
when a spray bar is put in a b pipe, it supposed to be down at the 3 bolt flange, not where a screw used to be.
the spray bar stem has to seal the water jacket if its put in there or water just leaks into the chamber past the stem.
it seems like somebody either did a hillbilly fix or thought that was right and it aint.
the top screw gets closed when using water injection on a b pipe.
water injected as close to the ports as possible gives the best bottom end, which is why its put right at the 3 bolt flange, then shuts off at high rpm.
since that hole is way hogged out, i would tap it so a bolt screwed in there and i'd grind it to a point so it shut the water off when it was tightened.
with a jam nut on it, it could be adjusted just like the screw that is supposed to be in that hole.
you would have to make sure it sealed the bleed hole when shut and barely turn it to barely open it.
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Buzzard hit the nail on the head. This is how water injection should be setup on a SJ B pipe. Top and mid closed with a small bleed on the bottom screw. Tap the flange on top with the spray bar. Now if I could only remember the dip switch settings on the msd injection module you would be set. On at 3k of at???
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- Location
- Ny
So I can’t run it this way and the guy on here ripped me off lol???
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Close all your screws........... Try it, this is putting water in at the same point as having the top screw open.......... You may need to add a restrictor if too much water is being injected. There are so many different ways to tune a pipe. It is not that hard.
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- Location
- Ny
Ok thanks
Been watching this thread ........... here is a tip out of my secret tuning archives....
Spray bars work very well in B Headpipes, however, location is critical! In the early days of the ECWI, they recommended installing the spray bar in the mounting flange. They did this mainly for simplicity as the inner waterjacket did not have to be penetrated for the spray end of the nozzle to make it into the Hot Gas Path.
In reality, performance gain was acceptable, but far from optimal. The other issue it presented, was if it had a leaky solenoid, water found it way back into the motor very easily. Thus, quite a few motors were lost to water injestion. The top area where the OP is showing, will work fine for a rec boat with small displacement motor . What you need to do is remove the head-pipe from your ski, and with a 1” hole saw drill thru the outer water jacket only!! Then have it welded up as in this attached photo.
Once complete, drill and tap the inner chamber wall for the spraybar. The spraybar will also need to be tapped to accept Mikuni main jets. Install with the spray pattern going with exhaust flow. The line feeding the spray bar needs to be T’d into the cooling water line feeding the Exhaust Manifold. You want cold water at the spray bar, not hot! Make sure you also use some type of filter before the spraybar as the small jet will clog easily. For tuning. Close all std FPP adjusting screws. Start with a 100 main jet in the spraybar. Do not go smaller than a 70, and you will more than likely not go larger than a 120 Tune to your desired powerband. Lets us know how you make out?
Ski ya, Paul
Spray bars work very well in B Headpipes, however, location is critical! In the early days of the ECWI, they recommended installing the spray bar in the mounting flange. They did this mainly for simplicity as the inner waterjacket did not have to be penetrated for the spray end of the nozzle to make it into the Hot Gas Path.
In reality, performance gain was acceptable, but far from optimal. The other issue it presented, was if it had a leaky solenoid, water found it way back into the motor very easily. Thus, quite a few motors were lost to water injestion. The top area where the OP is showing, will work fine for a rec boat with small displacement motor . What you need to do is remove the head-pipe from your ski, and with a 1” hole saw drill thru the outer water jacket only!! Then have it welded up as in this attached photo.
Once complete, drill and tap the inner chamber wall for the spraybar. The spraybar will also need to be tapped to accept Mikuni main jets. Install with the spray pattern going with exhaust flow. The line feeding the spray bar needs to be T’d into the cooling water line feeding the Exhaust Manifold. You want cold water at the spray bar, not hot! Make sure you also use some type of filter before the spraybar as the small jet will clog easily. For tuning. Close all std FPP adjusting screws. Start with a 100 main jet in the spraybar. Do not go smaller than a 70, and you will more than likely not go larger than a 120 Tune to your desired powerband. Lets us know how you make out?
Ski ya, Paul
Attachments
- Location
- Ny
if you just want to use it for the weekend, install the spraybar with some silicone on the spray tube to seal the inner chanber from unregulated water intrusion. Then cap the spraybar. You will need to open the middle injector screw at least 1 turn so not to overheat the exhaust. You will be giving up a good bit of power. But you will be able to ride