Other Wide Rail - SURF RAIL - kit

[Tkmww]

I would def be interested. I love how the matrix and Scott S's modded superjet handles. I don't have the back rails anymore. I cut them out to mimic the matrix. I would like to see some pics of how you matched it up at the nose area and underneath the rail area. Has anyone tried leaving the stock rails as well? It would kinda be like a surf board with 2 skegs. As i said let me know when these are ready to go and I will snag one. How much to ship to jacksonville, fl?

 

[Mr Bojangles]

Scotts is alot wider than 2', he has the 40* bend too. Stock is 1.5', and the matrix is 4' wider than a SJ hull. I used his dimensions on mine

This is his......


Sorry, not trying to thread jack, just alot of different options out there.

 

[swapmeet]

^^^ Thats cool. I like the bend.

To the OP, please post a pic of the bottom of your bond rail, showing how you installed your part.

I made a fancy drawing of what I see the options being.
I like B... Just sayin

 

[Liquid Graffix]

Mine are like option A.

Bojangles rails are cool, but I highly doubt he'd be selling them for $45.


Another thing I thought of in trying to keep shipping costs down - Would it be better to have them in 4 pieces total (2 pieces each side) or leave them as one long piece?

 

[Mr Bojangles]

Yeah, $45 is less than my materials. Can't touch it.

A looks like if you where on its side, one lip may act as a brake, and not allow water into the second side.

B is the best, it hooks so hard when you are laying it down

Wider is better all the way around.

How flexible is the plastic? Could it be sent in a tube?

 

[Liquid Graffix]

The last picture above in my last post is looking at it from the bottom up. It is a solid piece so there is not a double lip like the drawing A.

The rails are pretty solid. There is some flex, enough to allow it to contour to the font of the ski and tuck under the front nose piece.

 

[Tkmww]

The last picture above in my last post is looking at it from the bottom up. It is a solid piece so there is not a double lip like the drawing A.

The rails are pretty solid. There is some flex, enough to allow it to contour to the font of the ski and tuck under the front nose piece.

So it looks like the rail isn't cut at all correct? So you are just adding something to the existing downward 90 degree angle?

I thought this was something along the lines of Scott S's. We need some type of bolt on that looks like example B.

This one is just making the outside of the rail wider vs making the underside wider which catches more water and makes the back of the ski seem lighter. Am i correct on this?

 

[swapmeet]

So like the revised option B yes ?

Thats not really what i'm looking for... but now I understand how you can offer such a inexpensive solution.

 

[Liquid Graffix]

With option B you would have to cut the side of the rails.

This kit would be a cheap, simple bolt on that can be removed later on if need be. No long term commitment like cutting the sides of the ski.

Perfect for people building on a budget.

 

[Mobile Chernobyl]

Did you really notice much of an improvement with that though?

I guess it's technically increasing the exposed surface area for straight line purposes by a little - how deep are the "fins" that you are adding to the side and what material are you using? (HDPE, UHMW, Polypro... Garolite? lol)

With a deeper fin I can see it aiding in the carve-ability and helping trap water in the bond rails for flotation.

My only recommendation would be if you could have it bolt on parallel with the vertical portions of the bond rail, then if it is longer than the stock rails are high - have it "flair" out, somewhere around a 30-45 deg angle for about 1 inch or more. Not sure if you can do this with your materials though...

I think a lot of people are looking for a quality bolt on bond rail kit that can effectivly 1.5x to 2x widen the rail. This would bolt on to the top of the OEM rail and the vertical portions would have to be cut off. It could be fastend with 5200 and some stainless rivets or hardware. Problem is making any profit off of it lol.

 

[Mr Bojangles]

Did you really notice much of an improvement with that though?

I guess it's technically increasing the exposed surface area for straight line purposes by a little - how deep are the "fins" that you are adding to the side and what material are you using? (HDPE, UHMW, Polypro... Garolite? lol)

With a deeper fin I can see it aiding in the carve-ability and helping trap water in the bond rails for flotation.

My only recommendation would be if you could have it bolt on parallel with the vertical portions of the bond rail, then if it is longer than the stock rails are high - have it "flair" out, somewhere around a 30-45 deg angle for about 1 inch or more. Not sure if you can do this with your materials though...

I think a lot of people are looking for a quality bolt on bond rail kit that can effectivly 1.5x to 2x widen the rail. This would bolt on to the top of the OEM rail and the vertical portions would have to be cut off. It could be fastend with 5200 and some stainless rivets or hardware. Problem is making any profit off of it lol.

That's why I don't make many, shipping a 7' long part isn't cheap. Could you make them bolt on top? And is it like a ABS plastic that could be heat formed?This is how mine turn out finished



This is a crapy test version I made

 

[Tkmww]

Did you really notice much of an improvement with that though?

I guess it's technically increasing the exposed surface area for straight line purposes by a little - how deep are the "fins" that you are adding to the side and what material are you using? (HDPE, UHMW, Polypro... Garolite? lol)

With a deeper fin I can see it aiding in the carve-ability and helping trap water in the bond rails for flotation.

My only recommendation would be if you could have it bolt on parallel with the vertical portions of the bond rail, then if it is longer than the stock rails are high - have it "flair" out, somewhere around a 30-45 deg angle for about 1 inch or more. Not sure if you can do this with your materials though...

I think a lot of people are looking for a quality bolt on bond rail kit that can effectivly 1.5x to 2x widen the rail. This would bolt on to the top of the OEM rail and the vertical portions would have to be cut off. It could be fastend with 5200 and some stainless rivets or hardware. Problem is making any profit off of it lol.

That is what I am saying. I would even say don't even touch the rails for r and d purposes. Have a rail made out of fiberglass, plastic, aluminum or whatever that goes out 2 inches, then has a 45 degree bend in it going downward. The bolts or attachment option would be on the top of current rail. Then you would have one rail (original at a 90 down) and new rail (on top) at a 45 diag. I only ride surf so i think this would be great for riding the face of the waves. You would have two channels of flow as well so maybe it would make it feel even lighter...just a thought.

I would pay for that because 10 hrs of glass work to get what Scott did isn't on my list of fun things to do. So how much for that options guys? $100?

What does the one you were referring to for $145 look like?

Bogangles how much for your option?

 

[Tkmww]

That's why I don't make many, shipping a 7' long part isn't cheap. Could you make them bolt on top? And is it like a ABS plastic that could be heat formed?This is how mine turn out finished

View attachment 191246

This is a crapy test version I made

View attachment 191247

Perfect!!! Somebody make this out of plastic or something, in a few pieces for easy shipping.

 

[Mr Bojangles]

You have to be careful with plastic. A good abs should be fine, but it has to be strong enough to lift your ski with.

I'll look into shipping, but I'm not making any right now, later, but not now. Pm or I had a thread on the SJ section about mine

 

[Liquid Graffix]

My only recommendation would be if you could have it bolt on parallel with the vertical portions of the bond rail, then if it is longer than the stock rails are high - have it "flair" out, somewhere around a 30-45 deg angle for about 1 inch or more. Not sure if you can do this with your materials though...

I think a lot of people are looking for a quality bolt on bond rail kit that can effectivly 1.5x to 2x widen the rail. This would bolt on to the top of the OEM rail and the vertical portions would have to be cut off. It could be fastend with 5200 and some stainless rivets or hardware. Problem is making any profit off of it lol.

I noticed a big difference in flat water over the stock rails.

your description of how to mount it is a bit confusing.... got a quick sketch you can post???

After looking at it, I think I could make the material work by mounting it on top of the rail, and having it extend out 2-3 inches. I'll do some research today and see what I come up with.

As far as making a profit, I'm not in this to get rich thats for sure. I just made something for my ski and it worked so I figured I could offer it to others and make it totally affordable. Same as I did with the SURF SEAL and the SURF STRAPS. I built my ski on a budget and I know a lot of other people are trying to do the same thing. So it's not about the money, more so making a good product that people like and getting my Co. name out there so that when I finally launch my website with the REAL service I want to offer, people will already know the name.

 

[Speleopower]

I have seen Bojangles rail pieces and they are very strong. I've lifted his ski with them and they do have the strength. That is important because the ski will get smashed in the surf onto the beach or need to lift the ski by the rails or be able to tighten ratchet straps down across the rails.
Two piece rails might be cheaper to ship but I would have reservations about their strength.
-Scott