Will heat from resin damage finish....

[Jcary85]

Hey All,
I'm about to start the build of my new Rickter XFS G2. My first step is to build a bottom protector plate thingy. Ya know, a fiberglass plate that i turf and bring with me everywhere that goes between the ski and my stand or trailer bunks to keep the bottom in perfect condition. To build this, I'm planning to cover the bottom with a couple layes of plastic, then just wet layup some fiberglass crappily over top of the plastic. This thing doesn't have to be pretty, just functional. Anyway, I've had some epoxy get REALLY hot and melt stuff when left in the mixing cup. What kinda heat are we talking in the actual fiberglass part and is there any chance it will melt the plastic tarps I'm using or damage the finish on the bottom of the brand new hull?

Thanks
-Jordan

 

[schicks]

Depends on temp and the type of hardener used. In hot weather, fast cure kicks really really fast and gets hot, slow cure is slower doesnt get as hot and extra slow is extra slow and wont build much heat, but still gets warm. All west system. Six10 is just extra slow hardener, west, and cabosil silica. Anytype of poly or vinyl will get quite hot as well. Also, the quantity mixed matters too, more volume will get hot, thats why your cup melted. Try to mix small batches and or get it out of the cup fast to keep heat down.

I put hydro turf on my trailer bunks, i find its to much grip and is a pain to pull ski off if bunks are not submerged. Im gunna try carpet on top of turf, get that happy medium between cushion and grip/but not to much grip

 

[smoofers]

If you're laying up in a thin layer with a normal cure rate it should only get warm. The hull is a big heatsink. The resin gets super hot in the cup because it's a self accelerating reaction. The resin gives off heat as it cures and heat speeds up the cure. When you have a resin cup getting that hot, you can feel the resin you've laid in a thin layer with glass and it'll be barely warm.

 

[Jcary85]

I went for it. I’m doing Just one layer to be safe but seems fine so far. Thanks all

 

[Mdavies_02]

Off topic but are these common? I've haven't seen one before but it seems like a simple way to protect a ski.

 

[Jcary85]

Off topic but are these common? I've haven't seen one before but it seems like a simple way to protect a ski.

I stole the idea from a pro rider. Don’t think they are too common because of the hassle of always having to slide it u see the ski

 

[schicks]

Good idea, keep us posted on how it works, and more pics.

 

[kevbo]

II have not found an epoxy that will exothem if the layers are thin, around .125" or less. Carpet or foam is usually best to protect a hull because it wont scuff as bad when a little sand is present. A harder plastic must be perfectly clean.

 

[Big Kahuna]

I stole the idea from a pro rider. Don’t think they are too common because of the hassle of always having to slide it u see the ski

Wamilton started making for his sponsored riders back in the early 2000's. You dont see them used that much any more. Malone, Lenzi, Josh and Brad Lustic all had these for their ski's...... They were painted to match the paint jobs on the bottoms of their skis.

 

[Brownie]

I had 2 of these made for my nitro's. Great way to keep the bottom of the hull looking new. I have turf on the top side.

 

[Wfo35]

I was thinking about putting expel paint protection on the bottom of my xfr when it arrives.

 

[bkspeedwerks]

I was thinking about putting expel paint protection on the bottom of my xfr when it arrives.

this has also crossed my mind to try. think i might try it on my new hull as well.

 

[Jcary85]

I had 2 of these made for my nitro's. Great way to keep the bottom of the hull looking new. I have turf on the top side.

Those are quite fancy!! Mine is way more quick and dirty. Came out nice though. A bit flimsy but should be fine once I turf it

 

[Brownie]

Mine are pretty thin and a little flimsy too, but they work great. I tried the clear bra route on on of my rickters, it doesn't like to slide on any kind of bunk and will start to tear and peel quickly. I spent 2hrs on the beach getting it out of my pump when it did let go.

 

[Wfo35]

Mine are pretty thin and a little flimsy too, but they work great. I tried the clear bra route on on of my rickters, it doesn't like to slide on any kind of bunk and will start to tear and peel quickly. I spent 2hrs on the beach getting it out of my pump when it did let go.

That doesn’t sound good!! What brand did you use?

 

[Brownie]

It was a high quality 3M clear bra that we use at the dealership I work for. If you don't slide your skis on bunks and just pick it up everytime it might work but the water pressure on the bottom of the hull will most likely peel it sooner or later. We warn all our customers about pressure washing it.

Sorry for derailing the original thread.

 

[Jcary85]

It was a high quality 3M clear bra that we use at the dealership I work for. If you don't slide your skis on bunks and just pick it up everytime it might work but the water pressure on the bottom of the hull will most likely peel it sooner or later. We warn all our customers about pressure washing it.

Sorry for derailing the original thread.

I don’t think it’s a derail. I’d love to discuss more creative ideas for keeping the bottom of the hull nice. I mean look how good this thing looks!!!

 

[Brownie]

My wife has a ninja V2 hull coming at the end of they year, for for hull protection I will have it completely ceramic coated and build a "sled" for the bottom. I've been working on cars with ceramic coatings in the body shop and it does seam to be more durable then just a normal clear coat alone.