Winter Storage.

okay yami be careful though. stock atv and a ski with an enhancer high comp head and exhaust.... not worth the risk of $10 in gas to blow it up. stabil isnt for high performance engines.

Also funny that u say ethanol gums stuff up.... it actually does the exact opposite. it cleans everything out and usually the crap it cleans out gums stuff up. also if you arent prepared for it it will eat improper rubber in the fuel system. Ive never had ethanol gum up anything in my life.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I looked into heat trace once when we were doing a huge project at work and could have gotten as much of the good, 5w/ft self regulating industrial stuff as I needed. A small loop just didn't put out enough to do anything and a large enough loop would cost a lot more to operate. I figured i could get away with less if i wrapped the hull in insulation but then was worried that i would risk trap moisture and compound corrosion and rust. A case of RV plumbing antifreeze at the time was less than $10 and was enough to do 2 skis for 3-4 seasons so it was a no brainer.
 

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
Never heard sta-bil was bad for high compression motors.

If my ski sat for along time, i would probably drain the fuel, but It only sits for about 4 month out of the year. Would I be scared to run old treated non-ethanol fuel in a utility quad or 550, no.

Ethanol fuel turns green and eats away at jets, have seen more times then I can count. I have some photos some where. Most repair shops know that ethanol fuel is good for business.
 
Up here in Canada on the north side of NY, we get the variations of all temps it seems. But we can have some insanely frozen days where boiling water will freeze instantly when thrown in the air. My process for winterization is this:

1. Remove airbox cover and prep the engine water lines with an extension hose and funnel. If you have a dry pipe like I do, you will need to set up a T in your flushing line. One to the lowest water fitting on the pipe and one to the cylinder head. This process is imperative to preventing the thin water jacket on the pipe from splitting.
2. Find a good couple of gallons of plumbing antifreeze for the freeze protection flushing (3 gals if there is a dry pipe installed).
3. Find a good quality fuel stabilizer and add to your fuel accordingly. I prefer OMC 2+4 fuel stabilizer but it's getting hard to find nowadays. I think Maxima sells some decent stuff too.
4. Fire up the ski, allow it to idle while pouring the plumbing antifreeze into the funnel (about a gallon and a half is needed to properly treat the block and get into the waterbox, two and a half gallons if a dry pipe is installed).
5. Once you stop pouring in the plumbing antifreeze, with the engine still idling, start spraying the fogging oil into the carb throats and try to keep the ski running for a minute or so while you pump that fogging oil to it. You want to see a thick lingering heavy cloud of blue floating around you from the exhaust. That will tell you it is well fogged, at that point while still spraying the fogging oil, let the engine come back to idle and snuff it with more fogging. It will shut the engine down just keep spraying.
6. Disconnect the battery, top up its fluids with distilled water, and charge once a month.
7. Pour the rest of the plumbing antifreeze into the bilge and flush the bilge pump by pumping out the hull.

That's all there is to it. You can spray the head bolts if you want with fogging oil too. No need to pull the plugs and spray anything down the holes, the engine fog will get into the rings anyway so all you will be doing is leaving a heavy dose of oil on top of your pistons, if there is too much you could hydro-lock the engine in the spring. I have never seen it happen from fogging oil but why risk it if you don't have to. I have been winterizing my skis for the last 22 years this way and never once had a block split from freezing...or a waterbox or exhaust jacket....and yes it does happen. Seen it happen to an inboard marine engine a few times. I also saw it happen to a friend's SX-R, his headpipe split from freezing, the ski didn't get winterized and didn't drain fully. Where I used to work, we would warranty any freeze damage if the boat/pwc was winterized before the first frost, after that, no warranty. I hope this helps, and give it a hug before you put it to bed :D

http://www.maximausa.com/
http://www.maximausa.com/product/fuel-stabilizer/
 
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mike b

Michael "Mayhem" Bevacqua aka MikeyChan
Location
California
Since it was mentioned about higher performance motor. What are people doing with their 900 -1200cc motors at the end of season. It's bad to run an engine out of fuel for lean conditions. Do you just drain gas, take apart the carbs and dry/fog them out?
 
This year my engine sits on a dolly in the garage while my hull and all the bearings ill be reacing in spring bare the cold. So i should be fine..

But in years prior i made a habit of stsrting my ski once a week and letting it get warm..so the consences is i shouldnt be starting it in the winter? I ways treated my ski like my body..use it or lose it! Lol.
 

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
But in years prior i made a habit of starting my ski once a week and letting it get warm..so the consences is i shouldnt be starting it in the winter?.

That heat can turn into connotation in the motor, especially in high humidity environments.
 
^^ Ha! :D Yes yes, do not start the ski during the cold season. Not only could you load the crankcase with condensation, but you could also do that to all the bearings inside it and force the internals to rust quite rapidly. Do a proper winterization and let the ski sleep in hibernation until the frogs are back out and singing.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
On that note, once the ski is winterized it should not be started again still spring. That is why I would usually try to start it a few times between the last ride and when I actually got around to winterizing to blow out any residual moisture first. Winter didn't always co-operate but we had extremly dry winters* so condensation was usually not an issue. (Most winter's I didn't do anything beyond running the ski a few times and pouring some antifreeze in the bottom). Not once in over 18 years now have I fogged an engine or poured oil down the plugs.

*And by dry I mean most kids have no idea what a snowman or snowball fight is because the snow simply does not stick together. :(
In fact, I used to blow the snow off my truck in the mornign with my leaf blower. :)

Humidity
The relative humidity typically ranges from 32% (comfortable) to 95% (very humid) over the course of the year, rarely dropping below 19% (dry) and reaching as high as 100% (very humid).

The air is driest around May 5, at which time the relative humidity drops below 37% (comfortable) three days out of four; it is most humid around August 26, exceeding 91% (very humid) three days out of four.
 
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