Surfriding X-Metal trim *cant pull*

[Byeai]

The end piece as a ball joint so it moves

 

[Byeai]

If u get the end piece the xscream also sells then u don't have any issues either

 

[catpower]

Rhaas no slop ball joint. Yea I got that. If you look at a stock steer nozzle with out factory trim you will see that the mounting location is not in the middle of the nozzle but below. Yamaha can get by with this design because there is no trim affecting the steer cable. The Raider factory trim steer nozzle has the ball mounted on top and is located near the same axis as the pivot bolt on the trim ring. The steer cable is not affected by trim position. Yamaha has this figured out. Building a CATS trim creates this problem. I'm almost complete with my trim built from scratch. I will post photo but will not be for few weeks. FYI. This is on a B1 but steer cable is low just like photo shown here.

 

[Byeai]

This is my girls boat with thrust trim and it works flawless also but with this u have to leave a tad bit of room to move

 

[catpower]

So you are saying the steer cable is not arched upward to mount on the steer ball. If your cable exits your hull below the centre of nozzle like mine then the cable is now arched upward and only gets worse when trim is fully tilted.

 

[Byeai]

These are both on aftermarket hulls the xscream trim is on a kdx and the thrust is on a backiechan ill get a better pic of the steering cable with trim pulled

 

[catpower]

Ok thanks, take photo on same horizon as exit nozzle/pump so I can see how it may be different. A Raider trim system sucks with at best 20 deg. I'm making my own trim ring and pulley. I'm using a 61X exit nozzle and welded bungs on for trim ring and moved trim ring back 1/2" further than a 62t raider trim/nozzle. I will easily get 30 deg and more if I modified my trim lever.

 

[Byeai]

 

[speedysprocket]

The steering cable can pivot some at the thru-hull fitting, and there's a slight bit of bending that can be acceptable in the rod end. The biggest hurdle you usually have to work around is the cooling fitting boss on the pump. There's a lot of meat there, so it's safe to grind some relief. You do want to do everything possible to get the cable end on the top of the steering arm.

 

[yamanube]

What you are trying to get is the steer cable as close to the centerline of your trim nozzle as possible (the two horizontal screws it pivots on) this will reduce the deflection on the cable and the turning effect it has on the nozzle when the trim is used. Right now with it bottom mounted AND the extra spacer your trim and steering are fighting each other. If you mount it like Byeai, it might put a slight bend on the steer cable but that won't really get any worse with the trim pulled because it is right on the pivot point and the balljoint will take care of the little bit of rotation.

 

[catpower]

The problem I see with the trim ring in photo is the extension of the trim ring out and away from pivot bolt. The distance between the steer ball and pivot bolt has increased so a swinging affect takes place that creates steer rod/cable interference. The extension helps for longer radius for smoother water flow and increases degree angle so I understand why it's built that way but the upward lift gained with extending steer nozzle away from pivot bolt causes adtl stress on steer/rod.

 

[Byeai]

Does it nozzle go up all the way i would think that sleeve gets in the way