X2 basket case find

Hello just on a whim I bought a x2 at a local auction and trying to figure out what I have and what I need. Kinda overwhelmed. It's non running I came with a box of parts. Here's some pics. Where should I start. Am I missing key parts will this exhaust work etc image.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpegimage.jpeg
 
Here is a pic of the out side. Hoping I can try to sort this out and get it running. The auction house said it was tore apart for performance upgrades. So far $160 invested. Thanks again
 
I could that's great but I think I want to try to get it running. Are these reeds for this or would they work? I think I'll pull the motor tomorrow and install the block out kit from JRE I just found by the fire extinguisher. I think the k and n spark arrester should work it looks new. So my bigest question is the exhaust. Will what I have work ? Thanks again. Do I use the flow thru silencer with the west coast exhaust and how do I mount the water box do I need rubber feet ? I noticed I have 2 Bolshevik pump mounts how and where do they go? So many questions thanks again. image.jpeg
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
You got a pretty good haul for the price. I would be careful about how much money you are willing to spend on the project. I bought the donor ski my running 750 BP came from for about $300. You need to investigate the quality of your motor, electronics, etc before you invest a lot of money into such things. I don't feel that a stock 750 motor with a 650 pipe is a huge upgrade over a 650 motor with a 650 pipe, but there are costs involved in getting that 650 running and that should be your concern.

So, with the costs things said...

The motor you have has an 8-stud intake so it is a 650 motor.

It has a keihen carb. I can not tell if that is a 28mm or 38mm carb from the picture. the 38mm carb is acceptable but the 28mm carb is not, so you will need to replace it if it is. You can figure this out by flipping the carb upside down and measuring the throat. Keihen carbs are hard to find stuff to tune them, so the SBN44 is pretty popular, except you would also need a different manifold to run the SBN carb. I would plan on spending about $100-150 to buy a SBN 44 carb and manifold (plus $70 if you need to rebuild that carb). The 750 motors with single and dual carbs also use the 38mm mikuni carbs, it wasn't until the SXR that kawasaki switched to 40mm mikuni, so don't think that going to a 750 motor will get you a different carb. For kawi, a 38 is a 38, the only thing that changes is how many. In your 4th picture is the stock keihen airbox, a keihen airfilter adapter to replace the stock airbox and a K&N filter to use with the adapter.

Your second picture is what looks like a westcoast 650 pipe. It should work with your motor. However, that manifold doesn't look like the right lord mount. Does it say westcoast on it? It will probably still bolt up at the head pipe, but not the lord mount, and the porting is probably different. The casting is very thick at the head pipe so I'm not sure that it's stock. It should be able to be opened up if it's smaller than the pipe. The waterbox looks like it may be a westcoast but I am not certain. The one hose might be right from the waterbox to the outlet but the other hos isn't right for the pipe to waterbox. Should be able to cut it down though. I would not use the silencer.

The reeds you asked about in post 5 are 10/12 bolt pattern, so they are 750 reeds.

The thing in the bottom of pic 3 is an oil pump. You have a blockoff so you need to premix, oil pumps are junk.

That is the right fuel tank. It looks like you have an aftermarket fuel pinkup in the last picture there.

Start by loosly putting the head on the motor so it stays clean, put the ski together to determine which parts you are missing, make a list but dont order any parts. Get the motor running, or at least rebuilt and ready to run with the carb you want to use, then order any missing parts, assemble everything and go ride.
 
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Thanks for the input. Keep it coming I'm open to all suggestions. Tha throat of the carb measures 38 mm so I should be ok to use it. The intake does read westcoast with part number ex6480. The 6 might be a 5 hard to tell. Also on top it has SN casted in it. I tried mocking up but can't get the main exhaust on manifold. It hits the fiberglass. Do I have to move motor to assembly exhaust ? The second red exhaust piece reads ex6350L made in USA. The water box reads westcoast ex650. This box seems to have too tall of feet to fit up from. Also how do they mount? What do the feet mount to? Seems like I'm missing something. Any input on what type and size battery to install. Does the battery get vented? Thanks again for the help.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
You shoukd be able to put the manfold on then out the head pipe on.

Waterbox sits on the stock rubber blocks which you may not have, try setting it on a foam block.

Buy a sealed battery, it doesnt have to be vented. I use the deka gel, i think its ex16 and ex12. I prefer the thinner battery in my Sj/x2, weighs less, but run the standard size battery in my b1
 
image.jpg image.jpeg image.jpg Thanks for the help.
Progress report-
So I installed head and I have 100 lbs In each cylinder wondering if my guage is off. I tested with no carb or exhaust installed.
I have spark on each plug. How do I know what plugs goes to what cylinder? Spark seems soft not super strong but it's there and consistent.
I installed exhaust mani and was wondering what thread size and pitch is the hole for what I think it's called the lord bracket on the exhaust manifold? It didn't come with bolt.
So far I have 1 water line fitting on cylinder head with 2 plastics pieces on it one for a flush with the red cap but not sure about the other the black cap looking piece any input?
I have 2 nipples on exhaust mani on each side with a third spot in the middle but the middle is plugged, all are located on the bottom side. Is this right?

My first main red piece of exhaust has 2 nipple spots one I am missing. I need to get a nipple for it but not sure of the thread. Any input on thread size and pitch.

My second piece (stinger) of exhaust has 1 nipple on it by the end and my water box has no fittings on it.

So now I'm trying to figure how to install the water box I'm going to cut the feet off and use foam to support. Is there a necessary angle I need to keep on it or just straight in line with the end of my exhaust stinger and output piece going out the hull. Looks like I can use straight hose pieces to attach these if angle is not important.

I looked in back of my motor and I have 3 hoses coming from the pump area. 1 is the syphon tube but what are the other 2?

Are these both supplies for my exhaust cooling and what is the best routing of the water lines? I have read several posts and I'm not sure if I understand what routing is the best. What gets plumbed first 1 pisser 2 pisser one supply 2 supply? Any one have a drawing of how I should plumb or willing to draw one.
Pissers where are the located and how many do I need I have 3 of aluminum ones so I can add them as needed. Is the stock pisser the black fitting on front left side that matches the fitting for draining the compartment that has the fuel fill.

I know it's a lot of questions but I feel good with my progress. So far im making a list of parts needed and trying to evaluate this project befor I just start blowing money.
Thanks again for the help

Parts needed:
Battery
1 motor mount
 

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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
The plugs spark at the same time everytime, there is no front or back.

The nipple threads for your pipe are probably 1/4" npt to 3/8" barb.

You have 3 through hull tubes, but one of them is flush on the pump side so you cant use it. The stock config used it kind of like a pisser. Cap it.

The remaining 2 are for the cooling and the siphon. If they are the same size then it doesnt matter which you use. Later years had a 3/4" siphon tube. Personally i am running dual cooling and adapted my 3/4" siphon tube back down to 3/8 with a pex fitting (i used pex because they didnthave a barb at home depot). If both of your lthrough hull are 3/8, then no adapter is necessary.

The cooling config is the same as the superjet with a b-pipe. Just select the single or dual cooling diagram based on how much cooling you are using. Youd probably be fine with single cooling ifyou want to keep your siphon.

Personally, i used the dual cooling and used the cutoff through hull as a pisser so i didnt have to drill another hole.
 
So the syphon tube becomes a supply line for the 2nd cooling line in to exhaust manifold. Is there a internal water pump in motor or does it use the jet for water flow pressure etc. if so how does the bilge one become flow when it's original design is to suck out of bildge.
 
Update I was able to get the exhaust in. Only after taking over a month off for other projects. I poured some fuel in carb and it fired up so now I'm ready to start on the fuel system. Also want to add a teather to it. Any input I did notice a new start stop button with out a teather switch and finger throttle in my box of parts. Any input on switching to a finger throttle? I also tried installing a k and N spark arrester it came with but it didn't have a spot for the choke cable or enough room for the choke to open. So I went back the the stock one. Thanks again.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Update I was able to get the exhaust in. Only after taking over a month off for other projects. I poured some fuel in carb and it fired up so now I'm ready to start on the fuel system. Also want to add a teather to it. Any input I did notice a new start stop button with out a teather switch and finger throttle in my box of parts. Any input on switching to a finger throttle? I also tried installing a k and N spark arrester it came with but it didn't have a spot for the choke cable or enough room for the choke to open. So I went back the the stock one. Thanks again.

If its a stock switch then you can add a lanyard by changing the faceplate, otherwise you have to change the whole switch.

If the throttle is a 10mm kawi cable, then you can likely switch it for anything that uses a 10mm cable. There are many options for $40-60
 
image.jpeg image.jpeg Update
I actually took it for a ride today. We all had a good time trying to ride it. I never would of thought it would of be that tippy. It ran good at times other times it would just stall. I tried adjusting the carb but it feels like the lower adjust bolt just spins and is not moving in or out . It appears to be plastic is this a common problem? I was expecting to see a brass adjust screw.
Any input.
I did install a seadog tether and it seemed to work great.
The exhaust and water box are hot to touch is that common? I'm using a 3/8 line to the front pisser T in on the pipe.
So far I had all the parts I needed in the boxes.
I did purchase a battery, 1 motor mount and sea dog kill switch.
Not a bad investment so far.

I think I'll pull the carb off and get a better look at the adjusting screws.
image.jpeg Thanks
 
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Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
View attachment 318332 View attachment 318332 Update
I actually took it for a ride today. We all had a good time trying to ride it. I never would of thought it would of be that tippy. It ran good at times other times it would just stall. I tried adjusting the carb but it feels like the lower adjust bolt just spins and is not moving in or out . It appears to be plastic is this a common problem? I was expecting to see a brass adjust screw.
Any input.
I did install a seadog tether and it seemed to work great.
The exhaust and water box are hot to touch is that common? I'm using a 3/8 line to the front pisser T in on the pipe.
So far I had all the parts I needed in the boxes.
I did purchase a battery, 1 motor mount and sea dog kill switch.
Not a bad investment so far.

I think I'll pull the carb off and get a better look at the adjusting screws.
View attachment 318331 Thanks

Hot is relative. Many of my parts run 140 degrees or hotter. Some pipes are designed to lightly sizzle so they are probably around 180 degrees. I dont like touching things at 140 degrees so to me that is very hot. My buddy goes on the idea of holding his hand on something for 5 seconds, but what he can tolerate i can not. I use a harbor freight ir heat sensor, point and click, $5. If you flick water on it and it doesnt generate vapor then its pretty safe to say its not too hot.
 
Thanks i do have a laser heat gun I will try it next tim out. I'm premixing 40/1 and it does smoke a lot. I'm wondering if I should switch to 50/1. I'll know more when I pull the carb off and fix the broken screw.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Thanks i do have a laser heat gun I will try it next tim out. I'm premixing 40/1 and it does smoke a lot. I'm wondering if I should switch to 50/1. I'll know more when I pull the carb off and fix the broken screw.

Depends on your rpm. People have always told me the kawi cranks like more oil.
 
I saw that you installed a universal kill switch on it. I have a 650sx and a x2 that I want to install kill switches on but don't want to spend 100 bucks on a whole new one. Have any instruction on how to installed it and how it is doing now? Still functioning properly?
 
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