X2 carbon parts I am working on.

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
Just figured I would post up what I have been working on, now that the off season is really starting to kick in. For the record, this is REALLY helping to pass the time not riding. Last year I would have still been in the water struggling in the cold. I will admit I am having fun with learning basic composites. What I cannot believe is HOW FREAKING LONG it takes to do this stuff! I have atleast 20hours into the hood already and its got a LONG way to go. Everything I am making will be vacuum bagged, and built with west epoxy.

Here is the outer hood shell/plug, taken a few weeks ago and today. I did a test spray of polyester primer just to make sure my mixing/thinning ratios were good for my gun, and it worked perfectly. (Thanks WFO & Alex for the tips) Now I have a **** TON of sanding to go, and respray to the proper thickness....and sanding, and more sanding, ect. But its coming along nicely. I have also started the liner plug for the hood.

And the last pic is the rideplate plug a few days ago. I have this almost ready to layup the mold now and hopefully next weekend I will be able to play around with resin Infusion for the plate.

hood1.JPG


hood2.JPG


rp0.JPG


rp1.JPG
 
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WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Kewl stuff ,the Duratec primer is the shizz for mold making ,it sands nicely,polishes up to a very high gloss level and for what it does its damn cheap.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
That hood has negitive curves to it. You wont be able to lift whatever you layup on it. Your mold/plug edge needs to curve out, not curve in. The glass wont flex very much and you might not be able to remove the plug from the mold once you lay the glass.
 

shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
That hood has negitive curves to it. You wont be able to lift whatever you layup on it. Your mold/plug edge needs to curve out, not curve in. The glass wont flex very much and you might not be able to remove the plug from the mold once you lay the glass.

Correct, the bottom flange still needs to be filled past the bottom of the hood to get rid of the negative draft. Its got a ways to go. I used aluminum strips and they did not do the bend very well. Next time I will not cheap out. Originally I figured I would cheat and fill it with bondo, foam or something... into the positive. (Which I have started doing) I have some divynifoam I might use to build up the bottom flange lip. Still kicking around ideas. But it flexs a ton right now with the liner chopped up, I am sure I could get it out of a mold no problem even as is. I was just anxious to play with the new spray gun...lol
 
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Location
Barrie, ON
I was just anxious to play with the new spray gun...lol

I know the feeling. It's real nice to get that first coat of primer on there and get everything the same color. I never thought the sanding was going to end.
 

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shawn_NJ

Chasing waves.
Location
Daytona Beach
Everyone is chopped and not squared. Never had a problem running a scupper tube. Just have to angle the end to match the contour of the hull. I did rear exhaust once on an it made the motor do funny things when wave jumping. I dont run it anymore. But the foam (added rear bouyancy) and weight gain for the glassing, ect with no real gain, just makes me question the mod. I spent a day on an X2 with it, and I would never do that to any of my skis.
 
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