XS 900SS What impeller for freestyle? Help

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Set back, and a large hub design that works with your stock 144mm pump, Skat Magnum, or Solas 12 vane stator, this impeller will get you max airtime! Right from impellor pros...... ditch the stuffer keep your 144 and get a hooker prop. Hooker was my fav prop in stock 144 pumps 6 years ago.
I said loose the stuffer insert a day ago....... This part does not make this a mag pump..........
10/16's work and work well with the right setup............. I ran one on a 84mm BB, then dropped back to a 82mm. It did not work quite as well, but no lugging or choking issues. Hence, why I picked up a damaged 9/15 and had it repitched to a 9.5/15.5. Worked great. This was on a SJ Hull.
 

hornedogg79

dodgin' bass boats
He's trying to do flatwater freestyle, not turn buoys on a superjet.

It's just what worked for me through trial and error. As mentioned before there's so many factors here like riding style, intake design, weight.... I've gone back and forth with 144 pumps and props in the 3 a/m hulls I've had. They all liked something a little different. The hooker seems to work best in the stock pump. It was decent in my mag but I liked the other better.

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Thanks for all the input guys, from what I am gathering I want to keep a 144 pump in this thing, so If I am going to do that then I might as well get a 144 mag pump in there.
Running a 144 mag, what prop should I be going with pitch wise, should I run the recommended 14/19 from xscream? and you guys are saying set back? so do I just space it away from the stator with washers?

Now for argument sake, why is everyone on facebook telling me to run a 155mm stock pump vs a 144?
In reality I can build a 155 stock pump for basically what I would be investing into a 144 mag?
should I look into a 148 mag then?
 
the pump stuffer does help. it makes it a big hub pump just like a mag but with less and longer veins.
it does close up the area behind the prop for less turbulence and a little better pump efficiency.
you probably need to go with a smaller prop or one that isn't cut back and right against the veins, like a hooker. the prop needs to spin to get the RPMs up higher on the motor WHERE IT CREATES POWER not down low.
 
Thanks for all the input guys, from what I am gathering I want to keep a 144 pump in this thing, so If I am going to do that then I might as well get a 144 mag pump in there.
Running a 144 mag, what prop should I be going with pitch wise, should I run the recommended 14/19 from xscream? and you guys are saying set back? so do I just space it away from the stator with washers?

Now for argument sake, why is everyone on facebook telling me to run a 155mm stock pump vs a 144?
In reality I can build a 155 stock pump for basically what I would be investing into a 144 mag?
should I look into a 148 mag then?

Depends on your budget. I got an oem 155 with prop new from @JetManiac for less than $1000. @Sasquachcrap has stock 8 vein for $1000. Your hull intake duct is good for 155. Setback mag is the best if budget allows. Your cheapest route is 144 hooker stubby cone, no stuffer. That was my choice setup w 6 vein 144. :)
 
Depends on your budget. I got an oem 155 with prop new from @JetManiac for less than $1000. @Sasquachcrap has stock 8 vein for $1000. Your hull intake duct is good for 155. Setback mag is the best if budget allows. Your cheapest route is 144 hooker stubby cone, no stuffer. That was my choice setup w 6 vein 144. :)

Going the 155 route is what I would like to do since that is what everyone recommends. I am up in Canada so the exchange is abit tough, but pricing it all out, it looks like I could be into a 155 pump for the same price as a 144 mag? so its a no brainer in that sense.

to convert to a 155 stock pump what do I need?

Stock 155 pump
reduction nozzle? or will it come with one
Steer nozzle? will my 62T nozzle fit on the end of a 155 pump
Trim System? I am running an x metal trim system on my 144 pump, will this fit on a 155?
Prop setup? what prop would I run in a 155
155 pump shoe
drive shaft? do I just pull the shaft from my 144? does it require special tools
 
The correct shaft for a 155 is a little longer. I cut them to order. The oem pump that I offer isn’t the normal oem couch pump. It’s a stator setup from the new shvo Yamaha skis it has a 75 mm hub and 8 veins. It gets a good bit of reworking to make it fit in the tunnel. It uses the normal 155 wear ring and prop Really is a lotta bang for the buck. The oem from a ski like a 97gp1200 will work too but it doesn’t have the larger sized hub. I have a thread somewhere I will try to link it. For current pricing it varies depending on what all you want I can sell you a shaft or a drop in set up.
 
You'll need a pump shoe and an impeller. Basically your only two choices for the pump shoe are Jet Dynamics and RRP. The RRP is a little nicer, a little more expensive. To be honest, in my opinion they both kinda suck, but they work. I used an RRP. It fit with minimal grinding/trimming. I've heard that the Jet Dynamics shoes require a lot of fitting but I don't know.

For the impeller, the skat trak C75 swirl is basically the only choice. As previously discussed in this thread, you'll probably be somewhere in the 6/12-7/14 neighborhood. I'm really guessing about the pitch so take it with a grain of salt.

For the pump itself, probably the cheapest way is to get a complete setup from a couch on ebay. They sell pretty cheap on there. Usually you end up with some stuff you won't use (couch shaft, couch impeller, and big cast aluminum pump tunnel thing). 155 reduction nozzles are bigger than 144, not interchangeable, also 155 steer nozzles are bigger. I'm not sure about the trim rings, so I'm not sure if your xmetal trim system will work. You can also get pump parts from JetManiac, you'll probably spend a little more, but you'll be sure they're good parts vs the ebay gamble.

The shaft really should be a little longer as Sasquachcrap pointed out. I got away with a stock length superjet shaft on mine by mounting the motor as far back as possible, spacing the coupler a little, pushing the midshaft back in the housing a little, and accepting a little less than full engagement on the splines. It's about ~10mm to make up. If you do the "full pump assembly from ebay" route on the pump, you'll have a long couch shaft that can be used as a core to be shortened for a custom shaft it you want to go that way.

Be a little careful with the reduction nozzle. Some of the couches came with upward angled nozzles, some came straight, some came with trim rings and some didn't. My Chan porpoised horribly with an upward angled nozzle, but was fine with a straight one.

Another thing to look out for is that the long bolts that hold the pump together are bigger in diameter on the 155 pumps, and all but a B2 pump the bolts go into the big cast pump shoe thing rather than threading into the wear ring flange so they can't be used in your setup on your chan. They're too long and there's nothing thread them into. The easy route is to either get a B2 wear ring and bolts (they use a threaded wear ring and shorter bolts), or use short bolts and nuts on the individual joints rather than the single set of long bolts.

You'll also need a seal.

The hub spacer sleeve dealio that you have on your 144 pump has been modified to fit on 155 pumps by a few people, search around and you can find info, might not be a bad idea.

Jetmaniac has the shoe, impellers, seal, and the pump parts if you choose to go that route. Highly recommend.

I think the whole assembly from Sasquatcrap looks pretty good too, but have no experience.
 
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