Yamaha Waveblaster 2 Makeover - Noob to Neo hopefully (HELP!)

Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Guys do I use an epoxy or polyester resin for the gelcoat?

Can’t see which is suitable for my hull.

The gelcoat I can get is polyester based.


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Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
mikidymac said:
Just some questions

1. Would it be ok to patch with markne-Tex and THEN gelcoat if I want the colour to be correct? (yes I know it would be hidden)
Yes.
2. What is Marine-tex - Would need to find alternative in South Africa so need to know exactly what it is.
It is a 2 part marine epoxy for doing repairs. You mix the 2 parts and then it hardens after some time.
3. If I can’t find it - What is an alternative?

4. So I would do the entire hull to get the colour back: Would I not be removing any clear coat by mistake then? Can I use a polishing machine for this? Or does it have to be straight lines by hand?
The hull is gelcoat so there is no clear coat. You are removing to top oxidized layer. If your hull isn't really bad and chalky you don't need to do the wet sanding, just the polishing and your's doesn't look that bad.
5. I suppose any hardware/auto specialist would know which medium and fine cut product to recommend - anything I should know about what might be better for marine application?
I like the Meguiar's Marine line since it has a lot more lubricants and oils for gelcoat that the automotive products don't have.
6. Medium and fine cut - Does that refer to the grit of the compound applied? Do you use a polishing wheel and apply that to it? Which type of polish wheel (Wool etc?)
Yes, I would start with Meguiar's Marine Power Cut then finish with their High Gloss Polish.
6. What is a machine glaze - Assuming the auto specialist/paint shop would know?
It is the final polish with the least grit like Meguiar's Marine High Gloss Polish.
Sorry for the million questions - Just want to be sure, so easy to destroy paintwork!

Oh and lastly - I would fill with scratches and chips with the gelcoat and apply that clear plastic film to set: Would it need to bulge a bit to not contract and become a bit hollow in the place I filled? How do you achieve that when you apply that plastic piece over it which then flattens it out?
Yes, sometimes it take 2 applications to get it where you can sand and polish it smooth. It will not be perfect but better than seeing fiberglass.

In all honesty your ski is so clean I would just wax it and go but if anything just use a polish and it should be perfect. The nice thing with a finish polish is you can even go over the stickers and it will not hurt them. Anything more aggressive an you will have to mask off all the stickers or you will burn through them.


Here’s my Blaster 2
64b8b37cc5544166782232382f64aa56.jpg
Click to expand...

Ok so I went and shopped around - I can only get the following here (I can get the pigment):

Polyester Clear Gelcoat
MEKP
Butanox

Question:

Do I use an epoxy gelcoat or polyester gelcoat?

Is the hull epoxy or polyester resin based?

As for filling that big chip on the lip - I was recommend to use body filler?


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Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Gelcoat paste - Is that achieved just by adding Cabosil?

Any pref on use for scratches, deep scratches and chips?

Does cabosil not influence the pigment when coloured since it is white?


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mikidymac

mikidymac

Location
California
No, cabosil has nothing to do with it.

It's just a repair kit with a tube of the gelcoat repair, color pigment and hardener. It is used for scratches and chips.
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Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Does anyone have a picture for me of what the water spout assembly looks like on the side of the hull where it comes out - Just so I can be sure I’m doing it correctly.

Mine is just below the lip on the left side (Horrible DIY job by PO):

b0abb91bc41c1e0b873d3cc8cb9b445f.jpg


Is that the standard location?

Do you guys that that is the OEM pipe that was just pulled through?

How do you access from the inside - Is it just on the inside of the hull or between two layers?

Trying to source the parts to get it STD again.


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Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Ok so my plan to work on the hull:

I plan on sliding the ski on to some tyres with a blanket covering the tyres - Then my idea is to turn the ski on it’s side so the hull faces me and I can work on most of the hull.

For work on the far sides it can be on the trailer.

1. Do you guys think that when the ski is on it’s side for a day it would cause problems?

2. Do you think the gelcoat will hold when working on the hull on it’s side (Ie not upside down which would be preferred)

Pulling the engine out is definitely not an option at this stage.


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Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Also - Gunwale bumper Rivets:


The rivets that hold the Gunwale Sides in place - I assume you just use a blade to remove the rubber caps and then drill the rivets out? Replace with standard SS rivets? Are they blind rivets?


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ngerk

ngerk

Location
Argo, Al
You replied to me in another thread but you’re asking the same questions in multiple threads so I’m just going to answer here

1.Does anyone have a picture for me of what the water spout assembly looks like on the side of the hull where it comes out Just so I can be sure I’m doing it correctly.

There’s not a whole lot to explain. There’s a hole in the hull. You place the bypass fitting in the hole and screw a nut on the back. The rubber line will hook to it.

2.Mine is just below the lip on the left side (Horrible DIY job by PO):
Is that the standard location?

It should be. Your pic is really close up so I can’t tell the exact location but if it’s towards the front of the ski and left side below the bond line then yes. I highly doubt someone made a new hole.

3.Do you guys think that is the OEM pipe that was just pulled through the hull?

Is this “pipe” rubber? Is it one piece? Then I’m sure it’s OEM. Trace it and see where it goes. I believe it should run to the head on a 760 but I’m not 100%.

4.How do you access from the inside - Is it just on the inside of the hull or between two layers?

Have you even tried looking?

5.I will have to remove the silicone and check if the hole was made enlarged - Easiest way to remove silicone?

Most may peel off when you remove the hose that’s there. Maybe very carefully use a razor blade. WD40 can sometimes help with silicone. Someone may have a better answer for you.

6.How big should the hole be when I check?

Not sure on this. Once you remove what’s there, get a measurement. Aftermarket bypass fittings usually require 1/2” diameter thru holes.

7.Trying to source all the parts to get it STD again - Can’t seem to figure out on the parts fiche which parts I need.

I posted a picture with the part number in your other thread.

8.Where do I get the 0 devree biller bypass fitting - My local Yamaha Ski dealer might have it?

JetManiac sells billet bypass fittings. Like I already said, a billet fitting is the way I would go but they are not OEM. You seem to be dead set on keeping stuff OEM so you’ll need these part numbers if so. See pic:
B4E90675-5DCB-45BA-A2B6-E1F65EDA28E6.jpeg
 
Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Thanks for the detailed reply. The reason for multiple threads is I seem to get a better response with more specific threads than a larger one covering everything.

But stil trying to keep the main thread up to date, got a little confused... my bad.

Unfortunately I’m not with the ski at the moment so trying to figure things out and do as much possible research beforehand. Sorry if the questions seem unnecessary, bit difficult to discern just by looking at the parts diagram, hence asking.

Got a machined Water pilot nozzle yesterday, comes with a nut for the inside so that’s sorted - It’s a rubber hose that seems to have just been pulled through the hull and I’m quite certain it just pops over the nozzle, the guy obviously used silicone to plug the gap as the hole is obviously wider than the pipe due to it actually being that size to fit the nozzle through it.

So that’s sorted!

Thanks for you input, appreciate it!


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Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Finally got all the materials for my hull work, will be starting the repairs to my hulls gelcoat tomorrow.

Hardest part has been getting the colour right, and by right I think I’ve gotten my pigment almost perfect.

I was told the closest I’d get would be Canary Yellow - So I got canary yellow from my local resins place. Got home,opened it and held it next to the hull. Not even close, looked orange in comparison to the hull. I had incorrectly assumed it would be close, but it was way off.

I went back and got some Lime Yellow/Green and white.

Having never mixed paint I started creating sampled and recorded the ratio’s. Ended up getting it close, but not perfect enough for me. I went from pure yellow, to green and got my closest match in the middle. Still wasn’t perfect. Added a tinge of white and nailed it.

3fd584ef2b4d4e013876857ad8dd7dc3.jpg


You can see how vastly different the Canary Yellow starting point was to my final samples.

In the middle I have a piece chipped gelcoat that came off, I used that and continual comparisons to my hull, especially where the intake cavity is where the colour is still perfect. After filling the chips and bad patches I’ll bring the colour back in the rest of the hull which should restore the faded colours to match the repair areas.

Here’s the final colour:
5439d60ff0411e61753e8009179016aa.jpg


And my little bottle of colour magic ready to go

ad49bc0e7d6be76cf2bc92a3adb6d5a5.jpg


And the canvas prepared (Do I need to sand more on the outside of these areas or is that fine - I read that I might have to sand around those patches as well)

cda433c37615400e01fbfb264ab9789f.jpg



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Racer-J

Racer-J

Location
Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Howzit

I see in one of the pics of there is an Audi A4 with an EC number plate. Are you from Port Elizabeth?

Are you going to be launching from a beach or from a trailer directly into the water?

If from the beach your hull repairs will wear through from the sand, so i would not worry about making the colour perfect.

The B2 looks brand new, well done on the purchase.



Remember to always keep oil in your Autolube oil tank, unless you are going to do premix.
Sometimes the spark plugs get fouled by water or fuel, always keep a spare set with a plug spanner in your on board tool set.

i have had a B1 for +- 8 years and have had various PWC projects.
i have not done many fiberglass or epoxy repairs but quite a bit of electrical and mechanical repairs.
 
Benn

Benn

Location
South Africa
Racer-J said:
Howzit

I see in one of the pics of there is an Audi A4 with an EC number plate. Are you from Port Elizabeth?

Are you going to be launching from a beach or from a trailer directly into the water?

If from the beach your hull repairs will wear through from the sand, so i would not worry about making the colour perfect.

The B2 looks brand new, well done on the purchase.



Remember to always keep oil in your Autolube oil tank, unless you are going to do premix.
Sometimes the spark plugs get fouled by water or fuel, always keep a spare set with a plug spanner in your on board tool set.

i have had a B1 for +- 8 years and have had various PWC projects.
i have not done many fiberglass or epoxy repairs but quite a bit of electrical and mechanical repairs.
Click to expand...

Hey man

Moved back to PE from Cape Town about 2 months ago - Haven’t lived here in ages, loving the warm waters!

I’ll be launching from my friends house in BWB on the water (Amsterdamhoek drive) - So no beach launching. I should be able to keep the hull looking good if I launch straight into the water.

The ski’s in decent condition, I think the pics make it look a little bit better than it really is - But for the price it was a steal. Busy with my external pump as well, looking brand new again, will post pics.

Don’t have any experience working on ski’s so learning as I go - Not many helpful people here in PE that has experience with ski’s, especially 2stroke old-school skis. The one dealer here who I won’t mention are not that keen to help out without a massive price tag. Small things like not having a long shaft spline tool to remove the impeller is a mission, they won’t help me do a 1 minute job without asking a ridiculous amount. Suppose it’s their business and times are tough.

Let me know if you hear about a good nic blaster 1 dual carb, badly want one! If it’s been taken aftermarket to the max I’d want it quite neat. Never ridden a B1, looks awesome though.

Assume you also live in PE? Send me your no, I need all the help I can get being a noob :)

I’ll be fitting the pump assembly next week some time - You don’t maybe have some shims lying around?

Biggest problem is getting the bloody bumper rails - My one side is totally buggered and found a brand new one in the states - But no one willing to help with shipping to get it here. That’s the problem with the B2, I specifically always wanted a B2 and B1, but parts for the B2 are scarce. Less so with the B1 obviously.

So keen to have a B1 and trash it and keep the B2 as my good nic original ski to cruise around with.

Once my wear ring is in I’ll know if I need to work my impeller, hopefully the SS inner took the wear and not the impeller.

Busy with my hull work at the moment, real crappy job!


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