Yamaha Waveblaster 2 stall

So hear is what's going on it's a 96 Waveblaster 2 it runs like top but when you have been running wide open then get off the gas and back on it falls on its face if you don't let off the gas it will die but if you feather it stays running and takes right back off I completely went through both carbs and is still doing it I put a restrictor in the return line today and tested didn't help so hopefully someone can help me out
 
Might be spark related, could maybe try putting fresh plugs and maybe gapping them tight like .015"-.02" and see if there's any change. I had symptoms like this and changed the cdi and it fixed it and also changed the coil on a different ski with same symptoms and it fixed that one. I imagined the coil was getting hot after riding for a while, then the first time you see high cylinder pressure, ie letting off then going full throttle, it would short internally. For mine where it was the coil you could ride it quite a bit but the first time you did a submarine and held the throttle open it would die and not fire again till it cooled back off.
 
If you have to "feather " it to keep it running you have a fuel problem. check your rebuild. Did you buy Mikuni rebuild kits ? and new jets and needle and seats?, Its a must with all the ethanol in the fuel today along with a complete strip down of those carbs.
 
So hear is what's going on it's a 96 Waveblaster 2 it runs like top but when you have been running wide open then get off the gas and back on it falls on its face if you don't let off the gas it will die but if you feather it stays running and takes right back off I completely went through both carbs and is still doing it I put a restrictor in the return line today and tested didn't help so hopefully someone can help me out
Are you running aftermarket flame arrestors with stock jetting and popoff?
 
I will try coil I just ordered one and I have the cdi box off my blaster 1 are they the same? it's good I know because I took it off to put a msd box on it
 
The symptom your describing sounds a lot like lean low speed on the carbs. Classic thing that happens is something gets in there and plugs a fuel passageway or something along those lines. I would be checking very closely for that if I was you.
 
I will try coil I just ordered one and I have the cdi box off my blaster 1 are they the same? it's good I know because I took it off to put a msd box on it
They're not the same, 760 cdi has a plug, 701 cdi has wires with bullet connectors. I'm not sure if you could jumper the right connections to make a 701 work in a 760 or not though. But at that point probably easier to get hold of another 760 cdi, probably try all the other stuff before crossing that bridge though
 
They're not the same, 760 cdi has a plug, 701 cdi has wires with bullet connectors. I'm not sure if you could jumper the right connections to make a 701 work in a 760 or not though. But at that point probably easier to get hold of another 760 cdi, probably try all the other stuff before crossing that bridge though

Not the same and not compatible at all.

It would be pretty easy/cheap to get another 760 cdi though, lots of people pulling them out to install Zeeltronics.
 
Really sounds like a fuel issue not a cdi issue though.
Just seems to me like it would fall on its face when cold if the low speed was lean the first time he hit the throttle, not after warming up. Also I would think something would have changed after going through the carbs. I've dealt with alot of different motors though and none seem have the ability to have any symptom point to any problem like these yamaha jetski motors
 
My experience with this symptom is crank bearings. When cold everything stays tight and sealed, after a while of heating up from old growly bearings the crank develops play in the bearings, an air leak develops from crank seals not able to stretch far enough with the play in the crank bearings and the problem never goes away or gets better. I went through all of this on an old sea-screwed. Replaced all electrical hardware, carb kits, gaskets, changed settings, at the end of the day the crank bearings were the culprit. I bought the ski used and it had to be a problem child its whole life. Was never taken apart from the day of manufacture so the bearings had to be bad from day one. The pto bearing cage was literally missing three balls, as in never had them from day one assembly. No damaged cages, no broken parts, they were just not there or anywhere in the motor. The ski had a history of trashing stators too. The flywheel which sd called a mag cup was very close to the stator, when the ski would load up on power the battery light came on at the end of the day. The crank would push down so much in the missing bearing section it would open up a big air gap at the seals making it nearly impossible to keep running and the "mag cup" would impact the stator. That was my first and last sea-screwed lol
 
Stock pipe and changed coil I think that helped some but still does it I did a river ride on the weekend running 3/4 throttle to wide open for two tanks of fuel and it only did it a few times it's only when you let off and grab a handful of throttle more so when coming out of a spin and nose goes under water if I let off when it does it then get back on throttle it takes right back off if I don't let off it just dies but starts right back up just bump the start button it's just crazy this thing runs like a top starts easy lots of power
 

DylanS

Gorilla Smasher
Location
Lebanon Pa
Stock pipe and changed coil I think that helped some but still does it I did a river ride on the weekend running 3/4 throttle to wide open for two tanks of fuel and it only did it a few times it's only when you let off and grab a handful of throttle more so when coming out of a spin and nose goes under water if I let off when it does it then get back on throttle it takes right back off if I don't let off it just dies but starts right back up just bump the start button it's just crazy this thing runs like a top starts easy lots of power
Stock pipe and changed coil I think that helped some but still does it I did a river ride on the weekend running 3/4 throttle to wide open for two tanks of fuel and it only did it a few times it's only when you let off and grab a handful of throttle more so when coming out of a spin and nose goes under water if I let off when it does it then get back on throttle it takes right back off if I don't let off it just dies but starts right back up just bump the start button it's just crazy this thing runs like a top starts easy lots of power
My money is on your pop off pressure or low speed circuit. Whatever your issue is it is 100% fuel related. If you haven’t already, you need to check your pop off pressures with a pump. If you rebuilt the entire carbs, springs included, there’s a good chance they’re way off from eachother even on the same color springs.
 
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