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I modded a buddy’s 62T cdi and then he didn’t touch the ski for over a year. When he finally started it, it was like it was hitting the rev limiter at 3000 rpm. Swapped another cdi in and ran fine again. So I’ve been wondering if the mod really is still reliable.

I have a steering and reduction nozzle from a blaster 2. 155, no trim.

I’ve been doing these for 9 years. I take 11 ounces off the 701 flywheels

That’s my trade secret

FLYWHEEL FRIDAY! The turkey is gone, so let’s start the annual PFM SALE! 16 flywheels, almost every type, all ready to go! Never had this many at one time. Decrease rotating mass for increased bottom end response. No other tuning adjustments needed. Don’t spend $600 on an aluminum one that’s...

I have a freshly lightened 62t

Any 62T flywheels hiding somewhere over there…?

Still on the hunt. Got one impeller coming, wouldn’t mind another for the right price. And also want a nozzle.

Yes

Want to buy 160 prop around 7/10 pitch and/or 155 reduction nozzle around 95mm or has room to bore that big.

6/12 is close enough to pitch to 5/10..

I don’t think I want any periscopes..

I don’t

Found my chamber. Looking for a pfp water box now…

Yes

I have a few different thrust rings. I can get pictures tonight

Some conflicting info. Early small pin cranks had a larger shoulder and require an extra taper on the flywheel to clear it. That flywheel will fit the later engines all the way to 800s. The later flywheels will not fit those early cranks without cutting that extra taper into the flywheel (not...

750, 760, 800 all use the steel bumps on the outside of the flywheel for timing. The magnets are just for charging.

Taking the magnets out is like 13 ounces. I lighten an additional 11 ounces after that. And balance, which you’ll be missing for your project this weekend… Definitely a worthwhile mod and dollar for dollar, better than the aluminum flywheel!

I can make one…