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Ok I have made a few test parts to get my flow medium sorted out and track infusion progress. I have one more thing I want to try and then I will be making the top decks this week. have some more to do for the rear inserts on the bottom mold which I will be working on while all this happens...

its not just cali, its a national epidemic.

it will be tight but can be done if you really want to. I would also cut the holds area away too for more access. the foam is closed cell meaning solid little bubbles, usually the water is just around and on top of the foam. you can drill small holes on the back of the hull and see if you get...

sorry KTM, trying to move forward by improving them, not recycling them.

If it were me I would only cut the bubble out and lay 2 layers of 1708 in the cut area and one more over all using epoxy. I would stay away from the sides as this presents more work and cost for no benefit. also a lot of people are convinced their tray is cracked and foam soaked when in...

pretty sure Bruce's motto is, "If you arent breaking stuff then you arent riding hard enough!" lol. I got the perfect fix for you. lighter and stronger hood. hope you have some touch up paint left.

R.I.P. brother.

does mythbusters know you stole Buster?

I love it!!!

because there is no wave machine at Havasu? throttle and trim got stuck? Cause they have to do 1 more flip or roll than the last guy to be better? Lost count, was that fourteen or fifteen flips? If you think its silly then just come up with a better routine and then you can be the routine...

agreed, the point was to try to start off with some kind of surface agent to keep from having a poor surface at every step. you made your own coating so obviously we are agreeing on finding a way to start with a smooth surface. a gallon of gelcoat or primer or 404 is hardly 500$ I was just...

yes, working like a madman now.

you can do it on the cheap but just realize the quality will be less than perfect and probably take more work vs using the correct materials and doing it the right way. without gelcoat your glass will have air pockets in it. that has to be filled. when you sand gelcoat you get smooth...

ok so I chopped it down, started putting the bondo on. Took the step that goes in the middle of the hood and just dragged it down at the back. there are problems though. 1 to keep the stock nose I have to leave the lines at the front of the hood, this makes the hood look straight and flat...

I may have made a mistake in not explicitly stating the hull will be glass. while there are some vinylester resins that can be used with carbon, they are nearly the same cost as epoxy and nearly as good. so it makes little sense to not use epoxy with carbon. this hull will be glass. it will...

Fx midshaft and shaft. The intake and tunnel are from 144 superjet so intake and pump are 144. Rideplate is fx. The hull shortening is done on almost every new hull out recently. I think providing 3 setups allows for stock, one to mod to experiment and the last one is for the best length...

Would anyone be interested in being a tester and having a 60lb VE resin infused hull and hood made for 2 grand? Daytona is comin up fast and I would like to have several there.

seems like a simple question that should have a simple answer. but there is a lot to know. there are many diff weaves and that can play a big part in your layup. for a generic answer I would say that a total 48-60 ounces should get you in the ballpark. meaning if you are using 12oz...

dont get me wrong, they do work and have benefits. not sure how much you would get out of them jumping boat wakes? as mentioned, the do make the nose wider so if that would benefit you then it would be an improvement. they also make a ski carve different, tighter maybe is a good word. I...

oddly enough I agree. I can easily ride my square where I would compare my round more to an x2. thus the round got tubbies and the square did not.