Search results

All the new power uncovered the weak link...or coincidence. Either way that’s a bummer, maybe time to get one resplined at the correct length from a one piece blank rather than sectioned and welded

Crappy drive shaft weld??

3/8 (.375)

If the wheel is ground nice and sharp so it doesn’t blow a vortex off the leading edge of the blade and you run a steep pitch on the wheel it’s going to hit hard and hook up just fine. I’ve ran a 140 skat 12 vane mag on several motors and they will surprise you. It’s all about the wheel, it has...

Bore out the manifold and head pipe area where they flange together to 51-52 mm and run any engine size you want. The Novi 48 will feed a 1100-1200 cc engine just fine. You should be more conscerned with getting air into the hull to feed the engine. A RRP type pole without additional breathers...

Looking for an MSD trigger plate that fits Yamaha cases. With or without triggers is fine

Well, at least you still have all your teeth!!

All 700 cases are for the most part the same with some slight casting differences in the top of the case for cooling area. From 01 and up they are identical. How many sets of cases do you need?

According to the Mikuni tuning manual a 1.5 seat is able to flow more fuel than the fuel pump can transfer, therefore the seat should not be a restriction.

865-1200cc Don’t forget your carbs are only 44-51ish mm bore. A rectangular hole in the oem flame arrestor is not a restriction. There is more area than the carb bore

Here is a good setup that we have gone back to, done with pod filters. Guess the OEM’s must have done their homework... Don’t drill any holes in the back, the water gets splashed up the bulkhead and up the sidewalls of the hull and water following the walls will get sucked right in. Pulling the...

It’s called “take the dullest pile of junk tap in the drawer and cut me off cause I’m too dull on the lead and I’m perfect for the job on the big end tap” lol

Just cut off the bung on the pump half way up, then re tap the bung and your fitting will be moved in at least a 1/4 inch. If your threads hang into the stator on the elbow then trim off whatever protrudes. As mentioned above, a second 1/4” pipe tap cut off will allow you to bury the fitting...

No kidding, makes the other skis look like there is something wrong with them. Not even in the same ballpark, height is double the Rickters....

I have a fixture made to hold the driveshaft just ahead of the impeller as to be able to give an impeller far more torque that holding it by the splines with a drive shaft tool and allowing the shaft to twist torsionally and eat up the torque with the springy twist. Honestly every ski is a...

I’ve seen it on two 155 pumps with big displacement motors and radical timing last summer. Didn’t even have to shut the motor off, just brap it on a cart or in the water and impeller would wheel right off on the engine deceleration. As Squach says, the heavy impeller just keeps on rolling while...

I use red on steering, pole and pump nozzle bolts Purple on engine fasteners and impeller And blue on about everything else Not saying it’s right or wrong, everybody does it their own way. Just saying it works for me, I don’t have stuff rattling loose. Salty riders need to gob blobs of...

I will check on the number but it is just one of the low strength removable varieties. I have used some of the other brands such as Permatex with equal success on all other stainless on stainless and stainless on aluminum jet ski fasteners as well.

Clean and dry both the impeller threads and drive shaft and coat with purple locktite. It does a few things, holds prop from backing off, lubricates threads to keep from galling on, and in my experience it also helps keep the wheel from tightening itself on so bad that you bend up impeller...

Without more details to know if this is a new or chronic problem it is only a guessing game but if new, Check to see that a fuel pickup line inside the tank isn’t broken part way off and sucking air when exposed by nose up