Search results

Main thing is be consistent in what you do. Obviously every engine and every gauge is different. I test all my engines the same way regardless of dirt, snow or water and record all my engines numbers to know if something is going away on me. Spark plugs removed from cylinder head but plugged...

I pattern off old ones and use .090 commercial rubber roofing to make replacements, been working great for many different brands of scuppers. Using exacto knife for diameter and coring hole punches for small screw holes

If you go the tig weld route in a blind hole such as a head bolt you will certainly not get good enough penetration and fill going in from the top. It will only burn in at best the top 3/8 of an inch. I have made many similar repairs on a host of other applications by filling with weld and had...

Aftermarket in the jet ski world means modifications required. Cut, grind, weld, slot, epoxy, build up, trim, drill, tap, chamfer, etc. In other words, you need to make stuff fit.

Is there enough material to remove the helicoils drill and tap deeper and move to a longer bolt?

Have two drums of leaded VP Blue(c12 without NHRA marker) being delivered from Waldo today. Great people to do business with.

Hahahaha, Leaded gas can eat parts?? Are you making the presumption that the lead in race gas eats parts? Just curious if you have ever ran race gas in anything? I ask this because we burn 8-10 drums of leaded race fuel every year, year after year and engine and carb internals are pristine...

All 777 and 1165 engines are cast sleeve 84mm 1200 msx is 85mm bore and plated cylinder

Pieces of crank bearings getting barfed up. Just did a little preventative look around in one of mine that I thought was fine until I saw that. Turned out to need a center main bearing.

Just the pressure/clamping force from all the smooth surface area of the jaws. Kinda like a collet on a mill or lathe. I’ve never had the shaft slip in it even on a galled impeller with a nut welded to it and a cheater pipe on the wrench

March 18 Big mike posted “cank bearing help” as title

There is another thread from a couple weeks ago about this... check it out

Awesome, glad that worked out for you.

Oops, somehow the quote split my comment

Yeah, sometimes a good analogy and common sense brings it right into perspective.

Doesn’t matter which cylinder you block, don’t do it. Dropping rope down the hole was wasn’t even a good idea with World War II technology. If you block the first cylinder you are still putting stress on Everything. When you stop the piston at top dead center and load it up with a breaker bar...

The tool Watcon uses is the ultimate and the same one I use. It is made to be used directly on the Polaris but works well for just about any flywheel with some common sense. On Yamaha based engines the center drive bolt is too short and too large of an OD to fit inside the flywheel bore to push...

Once you have all the other 6 bolts out try tapping straight down on the manifold with a dead blow hammer. Those two bolt holes are slotted out the top. I have had that happen before and with all the other bolts out the gasket gave way and let the manifold slip out. Use caution and common sense...

That looks like a three man job Here’s how I hold the shaft, Soft jaws machined to the O.D of the driveshaft for a Kurt high torque machinists vice. You can hold right against the impeller tool (or nut welded to impeller on galled setup) Absolutely zero slip, no torsional twist in driveshaft...

siliconeintakes.com Check them out for all your exhaust tubing. They have everything you need. .065 aluminum straight tubes, mandrel bent sweeps in many different angles, silicone tubes, sweeps, adapters and adapter sweeps in every angle and color you could want. They are very reasonably priced...