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I used to use red & tacky until I tried Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Grease (the blue stuff). Best grease I've ever used.

Spark, fuel and compression. Make sure you have all 3 and it should fire. You’ve got spark now. Verify fuel and compression

Reread your post and clarify... maybe after that we can continue to help diagnose...

i couldn't tell you honestly, i haven't tried them.

I've never even been to a Duluth store, I've only ordered online. Their sizing is pretty accurate. Anything with "flex" in the title will blow your mind... pants and shorts aren't supposed to be this comfortable.

You guys need to try out Duluth. I used to wear Carhart and I'll never go back after trying out Duluth clothing.

What flame arrestors? I am assuming aftermarket with a pop off that low....

If deutsch connectors are a superjet, weatherpaks are a 300sx.

I'll chime in as well to promote deutsch connectors. I also fill them with dielectric grease and have never had any issues with them.

There's quite a few spots it could be leaking from. The first spots I would check are the ride plate and pump bolt inserts. It'd be a pain to remove but you could always pull those bolts and put some silicone in the holes and reinstall the bolts.

I think stock pop off is around 50psi, mine runs great at 42. I'd try and get it a bit higher than 30. If the next higher rate spring gets you too high, then go back to the spring you were using and tweek the arm to give a few more psi. Just make sure the spot that the diaphragm contacts sits...

Are you running a stock airbox or aftermarket flame arrestors? I'm running a similar setup with a stock RN style airbox and have my pop off at ~42psi. If you have a/m FA's you'll want significantly lower pop off.

You can build a tester easily. The pic below shows my setup for testing pop off and pressure testing cases. All you need is a pressure gauge with a decent enough resolution like the 0-60 psi one below (both gauges I found at tractor supply). You’ll also need a tee fitting, a schraeder valve...

To both of the above posters: Sounds like a fuel issue. I'd suggest both of you find somebody local to walk you through everything that needs to be checked. On a stock SJ it's pretty straight forward to get them to run properly. Verify jetting is correct. Properly rebuild your carbs, this...

Sadly, nothing on the SW or W side that I'm aware of. Everything is North, NE, SE and S. If you wanted to go NW a bit, there's Sommerville Lake and Lake Bryan. Both are solid spots even if a bit of a drive. Half the time it's easier than fighting your way down to Clear Lake.

We used to ride that spot a lot! In the middle of summer the water would be so hot you didn't want to fall off, since it was the opposite of refreshing.

Onward!

Agr Agreed with recommending new mounts. However, there was a member on here that glued a mount back together with 5200 and it held up for an insanely long amount of time.

Tray floor was secured in place with thickened epoxy and screws. The screws were removed after the epoxy cured. Holds in place and still not happy with the fit, nor the fact that the top lip of the holds took up room. The blue tape is where I planned to trim off excess hold material and...

Foothold finished and mocked into place: I ended up getting some 2.375" OD (same as stock RN) aluminum tube for the exhaust. I think it was less than $40 for a three foot length. I used my home made bead former on the engine bay side. Below is the stock SN tube next to the RN diameter tube...