1100 swap
- Thread starter Vortex
- Start date
- Location
- Dawsonville, GA
On our 1100 yamaha swap we left the battery in the stock location, used a 550 gas tank stuffed up in the nose and used a small TDR waterbox and placed it between the engine and gas tank. I would say by far the exhaust is the hardest part.
customride0105
Site Supporter
- Location
- sterling va
Everything fits in stock location.
Tank needs to be heated and dented in at the bottom to get it in.
Battery tray needs to be moved about 1 inch toward nose. Due to hitting carbs.
Exhaust Is biggest challage.
You will hit the exhaust 2 ways to fix this. One mill stock mani and cut the chamber reweld.
2.Mill stock mani and run 900 chamber or am chamber.
Fun boat to ride. I loved mine shouldn't have got rid of it
Tank needs to be heated and dented in at the bottom to get it in.
Battery tray needs to be moved about 1 inch toward nose. Due to hitting carbs.
Exhaust Is biggest challage.
You will hit the exhaust 2 ways to fix this. One mill stock mani and cut the chamber reweld.
2.Mill stock mani and run 900 chamber or am chamber.
Fun boat to ride. I loved mine shouldn't have got rid of it
Thanks, really appreciate the advice. Do you recall what prop you had in that ski? Looking for a starting point for a stock 1100, maybe a few mods like timing advance. Using a 144 pump
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- Location
- Brigantine, NJ
Fits in an FX with a little cramming 
Woah...how does that exhaust set up work? That's just a bpipe ???Fits in an FX with a little cramming
- Location
- Brigantine, NJ
Works really well for the 900, but too restrictive for an 1100.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I posted some pics on here somewhere with a tnt centerbleed chamber on a kawa 1100.
Nice
Repost if you run across it.
Just found a deal on a 15/22 6mm cut back prop. I think this is in the ballpark for a 100+ hp engine.
This is going to use the stock pump until I find the cash for a mag pump. Looking into boring the nozzle, any recommendations?
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Boring the nozzle- sanding drum in a drill. Just keep moving it around in a circular motion and you're good to go. Doesn't take long and only costs a few bucks.
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Go to harbor freight and spend $20-30 on a pneumatic die grinder if you got a good air compressor or the plug in one. The plug in one is bulky but has tons of power. I used one to bore aluminum parts for years and it finally died last year. Paddle sanding wheels as mentioned above will eat that aluminum up!
Thanks for the knowledge y'all. I'm noticing 1/2" cooling line and fittings on the 1100, what should I do about this to adapt to the stock 3/8" fittings? Tap in another fitting and run dual cooling? With the second fitting being 1/2"...or is a simple in line adapter sufficient?
Looking at the exhaust, it seems like I will need to have rad dudes center bleed mod done and probably some glass work and milling of the manifold. The center bleed mod also dries the pipe out so this may allow for more radical chopping of the chamber to fit.
There's also the possibility to run a rear waterbox from judge Motorsport, and fab a plate to mount the e box up front. Or take the more radical approach and install a thru hull waterbox from blockhead racing.
Looking at the exhaust, it seems like I will need to have rad dudes center bleed mod done and probably some glass work and milling of the manifold. The center bleed mod also dries the pipe out so this may allow for more radical chopping of the chamber to fit.
There's also the possibility to run a rear waterbox from judge Motorsport, and fab a plate to mount the e box up front. Or take the more radical approach and install a thru hull waterbox from blockhead racing.
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I'll have to look at it again it has been awhile.
I now have the adapter bedplate and cut mid/coupler/dampener. Soon I'll be able to set the engine in place and start addressing the exhaust and ebox.
Does anyone know if i can adapt the kawi ebox to a Yamaha start stop switch?
Magnum Mike
Site Supporter
http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?thre...blaster-conversion.147167/page-9#post-1651303
(and another diagram a few posts down)
(and another diagram a few posts down)
Im thinking i will go with the 900 chamber. How much did you mill off the exh manifold? 1/4"?
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I believe this is what you want. 1/2" thread to 3/8" barb. You shouldn't need 1/2" cooling lines since the engine will not be working as hard. Compared to dragging a 500lb couch through the water with 2 people on it.
http://www.amazon.com/MPT-Barb-Stainless-Homebrewing-Winemaking/dp/B013S23HJM
http://www.amazon.com/MPT-Barb-Stainless-Homebrewing-Winemaking/dp/B013S23HJM
So I'm still sourcing parts for this.
Looking into ebox and battery solutions, also exhaust chamber.
Can someone explain the "dry pipe mod"? My understanding is you plug the stock middle water injection fitting and the one that hit the motor moubt, then tap new lines on the opposite side of the pipe near the outlet... Is that correct?
Looking into ebox and battery solutions, also exhaust chamber.
Can someone explain the "dry pipe mod"? My understanding is you plug the stock middle water injection fitting and the one that hit the motor moubt, then tap new lines on the opposite side of the pipe near the outlet... Is that correct?