Freestyle 2 New Builds for 2018 Xfr and 2He

Location
Plano, TX
One filler down and one to go. I don’t want to run the push in style grommets this year. I was trying to get ahold of cold fusion because at one time he had access to all the Jaz molds and said he could make any jaz tank with the his inserts already in the tank. I never was able to get ahold of him and Jetmaniac said he wasn’t successful either. I scored a billet wammer filler for one tank now just need to find another.
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Made a couple remote fuel pump mounts to go with my ebox mount. Drilled and removed some material. The weight difference is surprising.
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Ducky

Back in the game!
Location
Charlotte, NC
if you are just looking for a better Jaz Tank fuel cap assembly, and are ok installing some of the billet 90 degree fittings into the tank, you can buy a Pro Werks c73 fuel cap assembly for your jaz tank. I hated the stock cap, so I bought one of the Pro Werks assemblies and it is real nice.

http://www.pro-werks.com/partdetail/C73-705-BLK/

Edit....I am dumb. I guess I read your whole post, except for the second sentence lol.

Builds look great!
 
You are running pinch bolts you said.. I ordered and have installed my RRP bolt, RRP spacer, no spring. It won’t get tight enough for my liking.. I have really wrenched on it.. nothing. Kinda mad that I spent the money for the spacer that is supposed to be for this.. and it doesn’t work
 
You are running pinch bolts you said.. I ordered and have installed my RRP bolt, RRP spacer, no spring. It won’t get tight enough for my liking.. I have really wrenched on it.. nothing. Kinda mad that I spent the money for the spacer that is supposed to be for this.. and it doesn’t work

Have you tried to remove the nut and tighten it from the bolt side really tight? That seemed to make a huge difference for me. The nut really didn't do much.
 
Install one coupler spacer on the midshaft and one on the crank to move the motor forward. If you use the RRP rear tank they're required, otherwise you won't get the clearance. I've also heard it moves more weight forward so that you can get more height on your flips.
 
Location
Plano, TX
Install one coupler spacer on the midshaft and one on the crank to move the motor forward. If you use the RRP rear tank they're required, otherwise you won't get the clearance. I've also heard it moves more weight forward so that you can get more height on your flips.

Thanks for the info. I didn’t know they were required to run the rear tank. Guess I’ll be using them then


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Location
Plano, TX
Anyone know how tall the pole pad needs to be to clear the rrp hood scoop? The supplied one isn’t tall enough for the pole to clear the scoop. I had a couple small pfp blocks laying around and I cut them up and stuck them to the bottom then cut and sanded my butt off. I shortened it some too. Looks good but until I get my new pole bracket I don’t know if it’s tall enough.
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I cut 4 inches off stock length, then run them all the way in each pole end piece. I also mounted the pad just forward of the Rick Roy logo on the hood. This length of the pole worked out real well for me, felt very comfortable.
 
I started with the 26in poles and cut them down to 22 and ran them all the way in. I might still be too long but seemed like a good place to start.
 
Location
Plano, TX
Damn. I cut mine at 18” recommend by TC. I can extend them out a inch on each side and I have 75mm risers rolled back at a 45° angle. Hopefully it’s not too short. I am a pretty big guy with some reach though


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I thought about using the 20in tubes to start but I wanted to use the pieces I cut off for the hood vents with 1.5 arrestors on top.
 
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