2 seized engines, need help with jetting.

Have you actually measured compression. It might be way too high (for some bizarre reason) to use pump gas

Just a thought after reading everything above
 

High Speed Industries

Your one stop shop for quality parts @highspeedind
Is there any fuel spraying back out of the carb while the engine is running with the flame arrester removed? I've seen questionable reeds reduce pulse line pressure and cause a lean condition. I'd also suggest getting an actual flame arrester for it. Running the carb wide open can change the fuel requirements for your engine.

Here is how I'd go about the problem after reading the last few posts.
1. Verify that reeds are in good condition.
2. Verify that carb internals are in good working order. Only use genuine mikuni parts as replacements.
3. Install a functioning flame arrester.
4. Add dual cooling to help control cylinder temperature.
5. Have fun.

If you need anything to get the repairs going shoot me a message. I have gaskets, reeds, individual carb parts ect. In stock and ready to ship.
 
Is there any fuel spraying back out of the carb while the engine is running with the flame arrester removed? I've seen questionable reeds reduce pulse line pressure and cause a lean condition. I'd also suggest getting an actual flame arrester for it. Running the carb wide open can change the fuel requirements for your engine.

Here is how I'd go about the problem after reading the last few posts.
1. Verify that reeds are in good condition.
2. Verify that carb internals are in good working order. Only use genuine mikuni parts as replacements.
3. Install a functioning flame arrester.
4. Add dual cooling to help control cylinder temperature.
5. Have fun.

If you need anything to get the repairs going shoot me a message. I have gaskets, reeds, individual carb parts ect. In stock and ready to ship.
I haven't checked that, but will the next time out. Everything inside the carb is good. Pop off reads 20psi. Checked 5 times. Same each time. Engine is uber sealed! Held 10 psi for over 3 hours. I had to release the pressure to continue. Thanks ill definitely keep that in mind. Btw the front piston looks perfect minus the wash!
ab39c255ccaf2803a8ff1aace2ba1d02.jpg
720202a90f3bc5e1efcb239c0777396e.jpg
64beeb045f41e40535e2d8aea7f827c2.jpg
aa3ed7b39257edf1964fa6227ff20e2e.jpg


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Is there any fuel spraying back out of the carb while the engine is running with the flame arrester removed? I've seen questionable reeds reduce pulse line pressure and cause a lean condition. I'd also suggest getting an actual flame arrester for it. Running the carb wide open can change the fuel requirements for your engine.

Here is how I'd go about the problem after reading the last few posts.
1. Verify that reeds are in good condition.
2. Verify that carb internals are in good working order. Only use genuine mikuni parts as replacements.
3. Install a functioning flame arrester.
4. Add dual cooling to help control cylinder temperature.
5. Have fun.

If you need anything to get the repairs going shoot me a message. I have gaskets, reeds, individual carb parts ect. In stock and ready to ship.
I don't think so. There would be white foam if it were. Ill check the next time out. They are the stock reeds. Everything inside the carb is good, it's new. Pop off is set at 20psi. Check 5 times the same each time. Engine is uber sealed! Held 10psi for over 3 hours. I had to release the pressure to continue the build. Thank you I'll keep that in mind if it doesn't work this time.
0f44de9cff83145236128ee250661dc5.jpg
9ff7e6625a77e8222a502b0e00faf2dd.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Is there any fuel spraying back out of the carb while the engine is running with the flame arrester removed? I've seen questionable reeds reduce pulse line pressure and cause a lean condition. I'd also suggest getting an actual flame arrester for it. Running the carb wide open can change the fuel requirements for your engine.

Here is how I'd go about the problem after reading the last few posts.
1. Verify that reeds are in good condition.
2. Verify that carb internals are in good working order. Only use genuine mikuni parts as replacements.
3. Install a functioning flame arrester.
4. Add dual cooling to help control cylinder temperature.
5. Have fun.

If you need anything to get the repairs going shoot me a message. I have gaskets, reeds, individual carb parts ect. In stock and ready to ship.
Here's a couple pics.
0ad4c6561f091d28f83d1894c8fe71ff.jpg
fc398f3b7dfa7f838114b2b36529135e.jpg
1a41aca6394f0b8410ad2ab8d088ecc9.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
Probably not your issue but noticed you are running single cooling. With that much weight/resistance motor may be getting to warm
 

Magnum Mike

Site Supporter
listen to Augustaf and verify your octane vs dome cc's and bore diameter with RIVA. mention your use case too: big hull that has lots of surface area in contact with water. Since you have been through this twice already maybe go back to stock compression until all other issues are ironed out.

The pic of the 82.75 shows 1 corner, is there scoring on the other 3 corners? If you can post pics of both pistons in the the 82.75 and 83 sets. Show all sides and the tops of all 4 pistons.

Good reading material here http://www.groupk.com/tec-seizures.htm and here http://www.groupk.com/tec-rearseize.htm

going 40:1 and dual cooling will not solve the root issue but will give you more margin for error. Groupk recommended 40:1 when a 701 was in the waverunner 2 hull http://www.groupk.com/y753b2.htm GroupK also recommend 40:1 when a 650sx that was 50:1 stock is modified, 32:1 when a Factory Pipe is added http://www.groupk.com/restof650k.htm . I have not ridden with anyone running a modified engine with less oil than 40:1. Maybe they are out there but 40:1 is much more common.
 
listen to Augustaf and verify your octane vs dome cc's and bore diameter with RIVA. mention your use case too: big hull that has lots of surface area in contact with water. Since you have been through this twice already maybe go back to stock compression until all other issues are ironed out.

The pic of the 82.75 shows 1 corner, is there scoring on the other 3 corners? If you can post pics of both pistons in the the 82.75 and 83 sets. Show all sides and the tops of all 4 pistons.

Good reading material here http://www.groupk.com/tec-seizures.htm and here http://www.groupk.com/tec-rearseize.htm

going 40:1 and dual cooling will not solve the root issue but will give you more margin for error. Groupk recommended 40:1 when a 701 was in the waverunner 2 hull http://www.groupk.com/y753b2.htm GroupK also recommend 40:1 when a 650sx that was 50:1 stock is modified, 32:1 when a Factory Pipe is added http://www.groupk.com/restof650k.htm . I have not ridden with anyone running a modified engine with less oil than 40:1. Maybe they are out there but 40:1 is much more common.
Thanks Mike, at this point I don't have any other option than to try stock compression or race fuel. Just seized another piston! . Just got off the phone with Riva and they say I'm good at 93 octane. My region only has 91. Most likely that's the the issue. Since intake side seizures is always lubrication failure, as far as I understand. Ill post pics as soon as I get them out. Thanks again

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Also it's not just more oil that helps on modified engines, but the type of oil as well. I'll never run klotz ski craft again after 2 seizures at 32:1, not saying it's bad oil just not the right oil for racing. Switched to Maxima
 
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