Super Jet 2011 superjet, all stock very unstable ride

Just got a barely used 2010 SJ from a buddy. It's immaculate. All 100% stock with maybe 25 hrs on it. I've grown up on a Kaw 650 and 750, had an 800 and ridin' all kinds of stand ups including a 2011 and 2013 SJ. Had a 550 and ridin' early 90s SJ's. Rode an awesome Freak this past weekend. So I'm used to riding and know the feel of a variety of skis and have never had a churning consistent wobble. This 2010 definetely has a weird wobble. Again...it's not the aggressiveness or lack there of because it is in a straight line that this rhythmic wobble takes place as those who have experienced it know to well. Those who haven't experienced it will say I'm crazy, haven't riden enough, be more aggressive, move my stance, etc. but it's 100% there. Has anyone solved the problem 100%? Did cutting the rear rail fix it completely? I hate to whittle away at an almost new ski. Love to hear an update from u guys including the original poster Fairlane. Let me know.

Thanks
Andrew
Blue71

Theoretically a 12 vane magnum pump would help with chine walk. I believe it's caused by the torque of the prop (a twisting motion acted on the water exitting the hull) causes a walk or rock between either the chines or tubbies. Don't believe me? Before you get on a plane, loosen your grip on the handlebars and let the ski do what it wants. Blip the throttle. You will notice the ski bumps to the left.

You can install a 12 vane magnum pump on the ski; I think that would reduce the torque on the hull by helping to straighten the water outlet more than a 6 vein pump.

It's a combination of the narrowed rear, the long sponsons and more aggressive chines on the newer hull. I don't think any hull is any different from the next; I assume the differences are the rider itself. Mostly weight. A heavier rider would have those tubbies wetted at a slower speed than a lighter rider. It only happens on glassy water. It doesnt happen on rough water because the symmetry of the hull isnt fully wet where it can rock between chines.

I used to experience this rarely on my 2008, most likely because the constant choppy conditions I rode it in. When it did happen, i'd just power through it or let it do what it wants. Never did I feel like it would buck me off. If it's worth your time, try to set the exit nozzle with a little up trim. If I remember right the 2008 had some adjustability.
 
Thanks for the explanation man, it totally makes sense. And finally someone who mentions that it only happens on glass water. That's the only time I experience it. Now how can I adjust the exit nozzle?
 
I think on the top of the exit nozzle is a 8mm bolt and nut you can loosen and point the nozzle upwards. You may be able to grind it out to get a little more adjustability. It doesn't cost anything to play with the trim and fine tune it. Maybe this whole thing explains why yamaha put that there because it wasnt on the older superjets. Must be something to it for them to change tooling just to add that little bit of adjustability lol Try both up and down

I noticed on your earlier post that your friends kawi's have a little chine walk. Kawi's I noticed are a little different, at high speeds it kind of rides like a log where it can lean to the left or the right. I'm not sure what hull design makes that happen, but my ROK -- a shortened SXR does the same thing at high speeds. I believe any kind of design, whether its a hull, a engine or a coffee machine has some kind of drawback for every design feature. IE: a shortened hull flips easier but its less stable at higher speeds .. or a wider exhaust port makes more power, but ring life is greatly affected. If everything was perfect, it wouldnt be too much fun now would it? Imagine a Harley that didn't rattle or rumble. It's perfectly balanced .. no longer nostalgic .. and boring
 
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Ok I am new here, read a lot about the wobble, I just bouth 2011 SJ amazing codition, seriously if this ski has more then 10hrs would be surprised. Took it out today has nasty wobble, like not impossible to ride, but takes constant attention. Mainly at medium speed, then also high speed sound like prop is not catching. Otherwise turns amazing has super amount torque...so guess whom knows what this wobble is...its ffcking annoying...yes better when turning and riding hard...but come on...this cannot be normal...Yamaha would not desing this way....
Kent,
Did you ever get this wobble issue resolved? I am having the same problem.
 
I bought a 2009 SJ a month ago. I read this thread a couple of times prior to purchasing, and wondered when I got my ski if it would be one which would have this dreaded problem. So far I've noticed the ski has minor chine walk most of the time, it definitely wants to be turning. But also under deceleration off throttle that this rocking can get worse and almost toss me off. I'm still getting used to that. So far no bad wobble other than that. This past sat I went immediately from my ski to a 97 sj and it didn't have that deceleration issue. And my brother's bone stock 95 sn has more significant chine than my 09 at all speeds.
 
Picked up a 2013 Superjet late last week. Been super busy and just got it in water for first time yesterday. I'm not very experienced but owned an sx650 10yrs ago and occasionally ride a modified SN. Been around boats my whole life. Lake was pretty flat yesterday, got up to full throttle and felt drag. I looked down and water was being forced up through plastic trim covering bond line at rear. At WOT on flat water this would happen on both sides causing noticeable drag and cause sensation of rocking side to side. My first thought before I even checked online was to cut the rail to let water get by. Then I thought it's because I'm 200lbs and too heavy for the ski. Now reading this with a few people saying cutting rail caused other problems, I'm scared to butcher my brand new looking 2013 ski. I can't imagine Yamaha put this thing in production with such a blatant issue. Going to try nozzle adjustment as some have suggested. It's just frustrating to spend $5k and to have it feel like the ass is literally dragging on a beautiful, glassy lake.
 
haha glass is the worst. Imagine spending 9k on a 2013 and dealing with that issue like this dummy did :eek:. Honestly I don't even notice it much anymore. I just carve it whenever I'm on glass. other than that one issue, these skis handle amazing IMO. wait till you get it on a buoy course. you'll fall in love.
 
Jason McClintock lives 2 doors down so we have 2 slalom courses. I'll try to forget issue for now. If anyone that has cut the bond line wants to recommend it I'm all ears.
 
I picked up a 2014 SJ this spring and have been searching for a solution to this chine walk or whatever it is ever since. I've only noticed it at lower speeds. Only mods at this point are a Riva ride plate and intake grate that I got a deal on. Same issue with both setups. Been riding a modified '95 FX1 for 20 years which handles 100 times better than the SJ. Has anyone cut the rear trim at the bond line and have the issue remain? I'd rather not cut my ski up if there's a chance of it not being resolved.
 
I have a 2014 SJ and it only chine walks a little bit between half and 3/4 throttle but I just gas threw it or don't hold it there. Only does it when on glassy water. The lake I ride on has lots of boat traffic so it hardly ever happens. Also I'm 6' 2" and 285 pounds for weight comparison to other on it happening. I surprised that people complain about this my rides like a dream!
 

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
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I noticed an interesting side effect a while back, it seemed the more aggressive the scoop grate I used, the worse the chine walk was. I stopped running intake grates a few years ago because I liked the loose handling and never really cared about high speed performance. I found it was easier for me to go wide open for long distances on my -4" superjet with no grate than a stock hull with a scoop grate. The hull still wanted to wander a bit but without the extra hookup of the grate it didn't force the ski out of line once it did start to walk side to side. Just an observation.
 
Do not cut your bond rail!!!!!!!!
Yes it allows water to pass through wich allows the nose to ride higher, that is why it seems like it fixes the "problem"
By cutting the bond flange you are reducing one of the best things about this hull, the drive through chop. The "chine walk" you feel is not chine walk, its lift from the front sponsons.

And yamaha didnt create new tooling fornthe nozzle on the 08 and ups, its a raider nozzle that is set up for trim.
remember that this is a race inspired
hull that is meant to drive through everything. I run my nozzle at neutral or slightly down and still dont have the effects that are being described. And this is not my firat 08 plus hull.
Cutting your bind flange is a band aid for a problem that isnt a problem.
The glass water wobble is the hull doing what its supposed to do, create front end grip and lift from the built in front sponson. The front sponsons create not only lift but grip on the front of the ski so when you start laying over for a turn the ski starts turning without any inout from the bars, the front grips and slows down faster than the rear allowing the rear to come around in turns easier.
 
, I'm scared to butcher my brand new looking 2013 ski. I can't imagine Yamaha put this thing in production with such a blatant issue.

Exactly! It's not the only new stand up being produced because of its 'natural chine walk' Ride the jet ski till it doesn't do it anymore!
 
First things first look at your ride plate which u did so last week I rode mine and it didn't turn and was pretty unstable.take the chin pad off and look at the steering cable if it is alright then look at the intake grate and pump all I got
 
I rode a friend of mines new 15 Superjet the other day and noticed the same thing. At times it just gives me an uneasy feeling. He just started riding and went out and picked it up on a whim. He rode my 00 sj and his back to back. He told me that he liked mine better. My opinion is it kind of a middle ground my pre 08 SJ and my SXR.
 
I bought a 2009 SJ a month ago. I read this thread a couple of times prior to purchasing, and wondered when I got my ski if it would be one which would have this dreaded problem. So far I've noticed the ski has minor chine walk most of the time, it definitely wants to be turning. But also under deceleration off throttle that this rocking can get worse and almost toss me off. I'm still getting used to that. So far no bad wobble other than that. This past sat I went immediately from my ski to a 97 sj and it didn't have that deceleration issue. And my brother's bone stock 95 sn has more significant chine than my 09 at all speeds.

Update on my post, I put a stock length d cut oem ride plate on my ski and have not experienced the off throttle / deceleration crazy wobble that I think most are talking about. It used to be very common and I could provoke it every time I let off the gas from going any significant amount of speed. This is after three days of hard riding and I am literally shocked that my ski doesn't do it anymore. At least certainly not as easily.

And also for my 155# weight I've seen no negative drawbacks from the d cut stock length plate. Ski feels a tad more nose high overall but high speed carving is not impacted at all. At low speeds it's easier to get the nose up and do tighter turns with the nose up too. Jumps way easier, it doesnt launch as flat as it did. Better overall rec plate for me no question.
 
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