2018 rickter edge fr build questions


Sorry, work has been crazy this week and haven't done much on the ski. As for the midshaft, I took my Cold Fusion alignment tool, bored the hole to same diameter as the recess in the hull, and used it as a spacer.

To this point, engine is in, shimmed and bolted. Waterbox and pole are also installed. I did have to grind the lip from the rubber strap holders so the sit flush against the hull, since the insert area is wider.

Tip 1: Put breather hoses through the hull/bracket BEFORE installing pole. Dont know if this is common knowledge, but it's my first time with a RRP pole...

Tip 2: chase the threads in all waterbox, tank and battery tray inserts before installing.
 

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Another problem im having is with the Thrust trim. Looks to be poorly designed. Anyone have any experience with these?

Problem 1 is that the cable hits pump bolt. Ive seen that people take it out and drill another hole lower in the mount. Ill have to do that. Problem #2 is the bottom "stopper", has 2 sharp edges as the contact point to the nozzle, which will eventually "dig" into the nozzle. To me thats lazy design work....
 

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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Nope, sorry. Pump was already assembled.
All you have to do is lay pump on a flat surface. take the rear cone off. Measure down with a framing square to the end of the shaft, If the shaft does not reach, measure how far the end is to the framing square. Then at the point where the framing square is touching the flat surface, mark that point if the end of the shaft is hitting it, or the distance of the offset. Then do the same at the spline end. Then measure the two points. Or just eyeball it with a yardstick or a tape measure.
 
I have thrust trim and my cable rubs on the bolt to. I thought about using a low profile allen bolt for more clearance but haven't had any issues so just left it alone
 
All you have to do is lay pump on a flat surface. take the rear cone off. Measure down with a framing square to the end of the shaft, If the shaft does not reach, measure how far the end is to the framing square. Then at the point where the framing square is touching the flat surface, mark that point if the end of the shaft is hitting it, or the distance of the offset. Then do the same at the spline end. Then measure the two points. Or just eyeball it with a yardstick or a tape measure.

Good idea. Too late for that though. Sorry.
 
Which one? My xfs has an rrp pipe( I should have specified that) so no head pipe and on the edge I mounted ebox a little to the right on firewall to give more clearance between ebox and head pipe.
 
I used the CF bracket since it was easier to line up and mark the holes and I dont have to try and hold the ebox on the inside while trying to get bolts through from the outside. Either way works but I had already paid for the bracket so might as well use it haha
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
use conical washers. mount to firewall. Thread the 3 holes on the rear of the ebox. mount turf to back of the ebox.
I know this isn't on a rickter but on my rip(which has a thin dash area) I did just this but without turf & only tapping 2 of the holes and using some fender washers and bolts with lock washers). 3 years of tons of flops and hundreds of flips with no issues. Used to use blue loctite but now I just use silicone to seal the holes. Never have had it come loose and I dont tighten it up real tight either.
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
used conical washers so it would not look like I grabed 3 bolts and 3 larger washers. Plus did not want any sharp edges incase leg slipped and knee went into the dash area.
 
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