Blaster 701 WAVEBLASTER ISSUES HELP

My 1995 wave blaster 701 is having issues, it sometime randomly shuts down completely while riding and leaves Me stranded, won’t start. If I let it sit for a while and pull the plugs out and put them back in it seems to work fine for a little bit but then after riding for a while it does the same thing... while riding ski shuts off and comes to a dead stop and will not start. Has this happened to anyone if so how can I fix it or what is the problem
 
Does not start after coming to a stop or does not crank after coming to a stop? If it dies out while running and does not crank it is probably a kill switch issue.
 
Take apart the plug boots / wires and inspect for broken end and corrosion. At least you will eliminate one option. Water in a tank could be at fault too. Or Switch issue as smithrookie manetion
 
Take apart the plug boots / wires and inspect for broken end and corrosion. At least you will eliminate one option. Water in a tank could be at fault too. Or Switch issue as smithrookie manetion
Ok I’ll try that and see what happens I’m thinking it’s something to do with the plugs or wiring cause I’ve been hitting some pretty big waves and smacking the machine around a lot so something could be loose
 
My Blaster has done the same thing! It’s the start/stop switch. When it dies, unplug the stop portion of the start/stop switch ( I believe it’s the white and black wires) and then try starting the ski! Good luck!!
 
How would i heck if i
White plastic normally real close to the tank. It should only let air into the tank and not out.
How would I check if it’s good or not there’s a little white thing comming right off the top of the tank
And the after the the line runs to something bigger that looks like a filter
 
Location
Stockton
Carefully pull the line of the tank and see if you can draw air thru it with your mouth from the tank side of the disconnected line. It should allow flow into the tank and if you blow into it the flow should be blocked out of the tank
 
Take the hose off the thing that looks like a filter (it's actually a water trap ) pull the gas cap and you should be able to blow through that check valve into the tank but not suck back from the tank
 
Unplug the black white wire on kill switch when it's doing it's thing. If it starts that's your problem. Real common with Yamaha
 
Unplug the black white wire on kill switch when it's doing it's thing. If it starts that's your problem. Real common with Yamaha
When riding and it randomly shuts off it still crank when I try and start just won’t fire up, could that still be the kill switch if it cranks?
 
It could be the kill switch if it still cranks, but it's less likely than if it was no crank no spark. If it was no crank no spark it's very likely a kill switch issue.
 
If it is all stock, then it would seem that the temp sensor is acting up. It is the little brass plug on the top of the head with a single wire going to it. If it thinks the engine is overheating it will shut it down. If you have deleted that thermal sensor, then it sounds more like a coil is failing under load. When it gets hot it starts to break down eventually not conducting through the secondary winding which is typically the way most coils die. If you are familiar with using a multimeter for electrical testing, place one test probe into one spark plug boot being sure to make good contact to the metal cap part inside, do the same with the other test probe on the other plug boot and see what the resistance values tell you. 3.5-4.7 k ohms is within normal range, anything above and your secondary winding is toast. To check the primary winding in the coil, you need to open up the e-box and test the two small wires leading off of the opposite side of the spark plug leads. The primary winding should read between 0.078 - 0.106 ohms.

Before you test for these values, be sure to zero your meter first. Touch the probes together and hold them there until you see the numbers stabilize. Most meters will read 0.3 ohms of resistance, this is the internal resistance of the meter. Whatever your coil test results are, minus whatever your meter told you when you checked your zero to get the true reading. Example, meter zero test reads 0.3 ohms, coil numbers on the meter read 100.3 ohms, the true reading is 100 ohms of coil resistance.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom