It worked, finally. \
Thank you very much.
Using the GP800 short-shaft, I was able to fit engine a whole 1 1/2" further back.
Tomorrow, I should have pix of my easy solution for the relocation of the 4 motor mounts.
The stopper bar improvised on the rear of the engine, let's me know exactly how far back the engine needs to sit WITHOUT having to have the crank installed.
Sure makes taking the engine in-n-out... a whole lot easier.
These are the 2 bolts holding the electrical box in place.
This is the donated GP1200 cylinder, already PORTED, & bored out to 86mm.
Very soon to be bored out to 87mm.
Used 3/8" X 3" aluminum plate, w/
shorter $20 Kawi 440/550 m/m's.
I knew it was going to be about 1/16th or so on the short side.
But that allows for shimming. If I went to high... I'm (u no what).
The front set up was a cinch because the center bolt lined right up with prior & new m/m hole.
Now the rear was a little "funner", cuz new m/m sit's right on top of mounting bolt.
So my solution was to counter-sink 1 mounting bolt on each side.
What a relief... when I went down to my local Lowes hardware store & found 8Mx1.25 countersunk bolts. Couldn't believe it.
So I installed them where I would have to still grind them flat, purposely. That way there would be as much material as possible left on the plate.
So anyways, not worried 'bout them backing out, cuz the m/m sit's flush right on top & will never allow it.
Eventhough I always use never-seize on everything.
Here I'm just showing the 4 plates. I think I spent $100 for the whole set-up.
Including m/m's. Oh, & alot of sweat, lol.
This is the REAL test.
BataBing-BataBang ;-)
btw-Kawi mounts use 10Mx1.5 bolts for their m/m's, but their too short to use w/Yami cases.
So I'm gonna need some that are a lil longer. But I already found a place online that has s/s ones for about $2/each.
Let me know what you guys think?
Boy, I sure wish I would have thought of this back in '97, when I put that 1200 in my '95 Raider that DIDN'T have the optional m/m set up pre-installed.