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yamaslut
Guest
ahhh... didn't see that you used that...
ahhh... didn't see that you used that...
oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
so how many more layers before the carbon? and then how many of carbon, just one?
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wydopen
Guest
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yamaslut
Guest
where did ya get the releasing agent??? I busted my nose off this weekend on a flip
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wydopen
Guest
this place called fiberglass hawaii...you can order online i think...car wax works the same..thats all it is..it came out pretty good i think...not the prettiest but it will do
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yamaslut
Guest
thanks
oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
They even have a website, but you can probably find the stuff closer to you slutty...
http://www.fiberglasshawaii.com/
http://www.fiberglasshawaii.com/
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yamaslut
Guest
thanks bro
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wydopen
Guest
rough cut it.im gonna finish grind it and coat it w/ aluzine today...all the lumps you see around the edges are gonna get cut off...
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wydopen
Guest
starting to take shape...im just eyeballing it at this point..gonna try to get it alittle more even.still needs a few hotcoats to make it shiny...also i learned my lesson...its really hard to make it on a predamaged nose..thats why i got those wrinkles around the very bottom..it followed the exact shape of the nose and it really exaggerates all the little dings..its really strong though..i can stand on it no problem
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- Location
- Hutchinson, Kansas
I'm surprised no one makes a piece like that for sale. nice work
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wydopen
Guest
taylor curtis is making a few but i know with materials and time its really not very economical for him.. tjfrosty is getting one, top and bottom...his turn out really nicely though...he taught me but its harder then it looks..im gonna try a bottom but under my nose is pretty beat so its gonna be tougher than the top
brett
-------------
- Location
- Ventura,ca
wow! looks great!
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wydopen
Guest
preped the nose for her upcoming nosejob last night...
finish sanded the inside as well...
gonna start on my tubbies today cause its too moist out to glass up the lower bow piece
finish sanded the inside as well...
gonna start on my tubbies today cause its too moist out to glass up the lower bow piece
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wydopen
Guest
more fun:
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no more sharp edges:
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ANY TIPS ON PAINT PREP??????????
no more sharp edges:
ANY TIPS ON PAINT PREP??????????
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wydopen
Guest
Hey Guys I Need Some Tips On Paint Prep...id Like To Get This Thing As Ready As Possible For Whoever Is Painting It. Any Tips?
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yamaslut
Guest
well since prep is everything.... he he he
- spray w/ decent filler primer. a good 2-3 coats to fill in all the blemishes and scratches
- spray a guide coat over primed parts. A guide coat is a very light coat of flat black just misting it onto the surface. The idea is to make it easier to see the imperfections while sanding. As you start to block sand it or DA it, you will be able to see how far till the blemish is sanded off. Then, blow clean w/ air/pneumatic blower
- after the hull is sanded and scratch free (if that's what you are going for) clean w/ a pre-paint cleaner. it's important to wipe the cleaner on then wipe it off w/ a dry cloth imediately after. this will get rid of any wax, silicone, oils.
- once the hul is oil free, tack the hull off w/ a tack rag or cheese cloth. this will get rid of all the sediment and dirt that didn't come off w/ the pre prain cleaner.
- once it's tacked off, you will be ready to start spraying. you always need to seal the ski before you spray the color. If you don't the sand scratches, no matter the papers grit will suck up the gloss and make it die back... basicly it won't shine like it could. it would be like painting wood w/o sealing it first...
- most sealers are wet/wet application, which means you apply the color over the sealer w/o sanding or anything. just wait 20-25 min after sealing and start your color. I always wait till the sealer is dry enough to tack again. it's very inportant that you LIGHTLY touch the sealed surface w/ the tack rag only... do not stop the rag on the surface either... always keep it moving when in contact w/ the surface...
- after it's sealed and tacked, mix up the color and spray it according to the directions.
- if you are doing a BC/CC job then you will need to tack the surface again lightly before you spray the clear
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wydopen
Guest
thanks slutty..thats what i was looking for..what grit do you use for blocksanding?
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yamaslut
Guest
I like 220 or 360 dry sand paper... 220 would be good i think
fyi - wet sand paper is grittier than dry paper cuase they expect you to use it w/ water...
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wydopen
Guest
i just talked to a buddy of mine..hes a graffic designer and insane artist! hes coming up next week and hes gonna help me with the stencil work..i was thinking scenes of death and destruction on the bow and along the front part of the ski. when you look at it from far away it will look like a solid color but up close you will see the details :firedevil: