- Location
- South Florida
Yep, that was it.
Custom/Hybrid Aftermarket hull finish
- Thread starter Brian_216
- Start date
Yep, that was it.
- Location
- Harveys Lake PA
we used veil too. even with the veil, the print shows up after the bake cycle after its painted.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Its pretty simple, the product will only be as good as the molds it is laid up in, chitty molds = chitty products, if you want to make better products I suggest you spend many hours sanding and polishing the molds, most boat places such as Mastercraft and Ski Nautique have mold shops where they do nothing but sand, polish, prep and repair the molds.
- Location
- Mechanicsburg, PA
I didn't take a magnifying glass to it but my Rickter FS2 came out of the box with zero blemishes. I have no idea if it's paint or gelcoat. I assume the graphics are decals but if you run you're hand across it you can't feel any type of ridge.....is it possible they lay the decals first or after / with a clear layer of gelcoat?
- Location
- boston
I didnt think Rickters had Gel Coat, my FS-2 def doesnt have gel coat. Every time I beach it new chips form. Ill dig some pics up. You will think Ive been beating my ski, lol. But i have not been. Paint is very brittle on Rickters.
I was actually looking into getting the bottom gel coated but had no luck.
I would have figured most aftermarket hulls are painted not gel coated like the rickters.
I was actually looking into getting the bottom gel coated but had no luck.
I would have figured most aftermarket hulls are painted not gel coated like the rickters.
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You think you don't have gel coat because the finish chips? Or do you have any other reason to believe so?
Get the molds slick and try a clear coating epoxy, that should give you an in the mold finish that wont crack. Body work and paint really kill your margin.
- Location
- boston
the littlest impact makes the bottom chip, its crazy. Waite till you see the pics of the bottom of my ski. You will know its paint and not gelcoat. Gelcoat doesnt chip like this. When it started happening I called Rickter and if I remember correctly they said the hull is primed, painted, then stickers are applied and top clear coat is the last part.
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
What kind of parting fluid -mold wax are you using, there are much better things to use in molds theses days than PVA, I use a sealer that fills the pores in the mold, its magic the way this stuff works
- Location
- Harveys Lake PA
-Using partall brand wax and pva. No issues at all getting anything to release. There is only print on the rear half of the bottom deck mold. I'm just worried about getting the polyester gel coat to adhere to the epoxy laminate, that and what happens over time if there is a small air bubble in the layup just behind the gelcoat. We need to stand behind what we sell. I want to be confident there will not be finish issues.
Wfo is correct you need good molds to make good parts it pays to have good tooling, people rave about superfreaks but when you get one tons of work is necessary you pay high dollar for one of those boats and tem could probably get more money if the finish was better. Make it how you think its acceptable. Imo make sure everything fits and bolts up before you fix the molds and that the parts being made are tough enough to withstand beatings
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
My only suggestion here if you cannot or will not fix the molds is to shoot the gelcoat in extra thick then block sand and polish the damaged areas after you pull the hull from the mold, It is not a well known fact but many boat mfgs do touchups to their boats after they come out of the molds, its not something they want to advertise but it happens on a regular basis
GIL
Power In The Hands Of Few
- Location
- Cullman AL
Post #2-ship it the way you would want to recieve it had you been the one shelling out the money!
2nd thing-I read the part about no names-BUT-my neighbor bought a glass/catbon re-inforced carbon Wamiltons hull, and for the money-it looked PERFECT and went together VERY easy!!! Every hull builder should pay attention to the fit and finish of Wamiltons hulls. Remember-I am ONLY talking about fit and finish.
2nd thing-I read the part about no names-BUT-my neighbor bought a glass/catbon re-inforced carbon Wamiltons hull, and for the money-it looked PERFECT and went together VERY easy!!! Every hull builder should pay attention to the fit and finish of Wamiltons hulls. Remember-I am ONLY talking about fit and finish.
you could use a duratec primer in the mold and wet sand to get a better finish if the problem is in the molds
another thing to help with the air bubbles behind the gelcoat in the tight corners is thicken up some resin and spread in the tight radius corners and edges before you put your first layer down
another thing to help with the air bubbles behind the gelcoat in the tight corners is thicken up some resin and spread in the tight radius corners and edges before you put your first layer down
lerott
X
- Location
- South of France
If you can see lightweight.de hull, you will see the perfect finish in a hull
chriselmore_1
high on resin
- Location
- san jose ca
Best finish in a hull I've ever seen us xft by a landslide. Lightweight is next in line
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Never seen a lightweight DE up close but the XFT hulls are just incredible
- Location
- Harveys Lake PA
Great info here guys- thanks! I think a good better best scenario is the best option. There will always be the guy looking to save a buck, and that was the reason we even got into building hulls.