- Location
- kalamazoo michigan
How hard would carbon be to work with tho? Ive heard its harder and I'm still a beginner fiberglasser, so I don't want to waste the money on the CF if its gonna be a lot harder.
Another Reinforcing Thread
- Thread starter sqwidget
- Start date
How hard would carbon be to work with tho? Ive heard its harder and I'm still a beginner fiberglasser, so I don't want to waste the money on the CF if its gonna be a lot harder.
Mark44
Katie's Boss
- Location
- 100% one place
i
You do not need carbon its just a band wagon thing, the proper material for this application is glass, you need the flexibility in glass VS carbon. IMO
Mark44
You do not need carbon its just a band wagon thing, the proper material for this application is glass, you need the flexibility in glass VS carbon. IMO
Mark44
Frosty
New York Crew
- Location
- Western New York
- Location
- kalamazoo michigan
Yeah I was still leaning towards glass, but I'm still curious about the CF too. I think that I'll stick with the 1708 and 8.5 then put one layer of 8.5 on the bottom of the hull as well.
- Location
- South Florida
One layer of 1708 is more than enough for flatwater/occassional surf imo. Unless you are really going to be flying like Frosty's sig. Even then I bet it would be enough.
Frosty
New York Crew
- Location
- Western New York
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kraqus
Site Supporter
- Location
- Great State of Texas
Frosty
New York Crew
- Location
- Western New York
I was actually barely able to get out from under it... then the next wave took it away from me... good thing for my buddy on a sit down who was able to pull me to my ski...
Flash-FX
No Square..No Round..FX-1
- Location
- South Jersey Shore
Sift through this thread... http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/66369/post-861056#post861056
Pretty soon all the reinforced threads will all be linked together (stronger that way).
Pretty soon all the reinforced threads will all be linked together (stronger that way).
- Location
- kalamazoo michigan
So what maybe just a layer of 10oz then? Or maybe two layers of 8.5 or maybe just one?
Woody
Need to save my money!!
- Location
- Long Island
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
Carbon is not much harder to handle then glass cloth. As long as it does not have kevlar in it (carbon/kevlar) it cuts easily.
Carbons benefit is strength to weight. I dont want a heavy boat. Carbon is VERY strong and for the same weight material. I have picked up/moved too many boat reinforced with 1708 and they all feel like tanks. By the time you price out the amount of resin you need to wetout 2 layers of heavy glass, and the glass itsself...carbon price will be very close, and you end up with a much lighter result. Fiberglass reinforcing will get the job done just as good, but at a increased weight.
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Plus I understand it takes more epoxy to saturate the carbon fibres compared to the glass?
Two layers of a lighter mat is stronger than one layer of a heavy mat.
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
Fiberglass mat is saturated with a 2:1 resin:reinforcement ratio....
Flash-FX
No Square..No Round..FX-1
- Location
- South Jersey Shore
That's another benefit to using the teflon treated nylon (peel ply). It lets you squeegee the resin around without disturbing the fiber(s) below it, making a neater looking, more uniform,stronger lamination. Also, when you remove the peel ply, the top surface coat goes with it (no sticky resin or amine blush to deal with). I would not use mat for any repair/reinforcement on the ski, save the mat for mold building.
demolition_x
Not After Fame & Fortune
- Location
- Holden Beach / Wilmington NC
Are you talking about my fat girl?
I plan on doing carbon where it is seen, and 2 layers of 6oz S glass every where else like the gunwales where the tray is at. I hate working with the 17ox biax and it soaks up resin like no ones business.
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
LOL. Thats one. I know 4 people who reinforced with 1708...all are their boats are abnormally heavy.
1708 is strong as hell in 45d/45d, but the problem is how much resin it soaks up because of the stich mat needed for bonding. It takes a gallon to wet out 4 square yards. Thats ALOT of resin weight.
- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
I think I used a 12oz biax with 5.6 carbon over that. I did an extra layer on the bond line and hood seal lip. Even with this, I do have a crack on the hood seal lip.
Like others have said, it really comes down to how you plan to ride. If you plan to start rolling or flipping on Lake Michigan, don't skimp yourself too much.
You could do a layer or two of 17oz biax 4-5 inches wide along the bond line and along the hood seal area. Then just one layer of 10oz over the whole thing. You could just use black fiberglass http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Black Fiberglass-132.html
I probably wouldn't bother to do carbon again, just black fiberglass.
I wouldn't do the bottom of the hull. Just adding weight for no reason.
Like others have said, it really comes down to how you plan to ride. If you plan to start rolling or flipping on Lake Michigan, don't skimp yourself too much.
You could do a layer or two of 17oz biax 4-5 inches wide along the bond line and along the hood seal area. Then just one layer of 10oz over the whole thing. You could just use black fiberglass http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts-category-Black Fiberglass-132.html
I probably wouldn't bother to do carbon again, just black fiberglass.
I wouldn't do the bottom of the hull. Just adding weight for no reason.
WaveDemon
Not Dead - Notable Member
- Location
- Hell, Florida
I bet it's cheaper to add black dye to the resin than to buy black fiberglass.
- Location
- Grand Rapids, MI
Black glass is like 19.95 a yard...... What's regular eglass.......like $10? Not much difference. Either way, doesn't really matter.