Anyone with type 9 experience

[750SX]

Holy cow what isn't overpriced in this sport when it comes to performance? 599 for an aluminum flywheel that weighs less than a stock one? The list goes on.

You gotta pay to play.

Anyways, I think the drypipes probably make more power, the chambers are bigger etc, but the b is easy to tune, it doesn't take mounts etc, and it keeps the engine compartment open. There is a reason why a lot of people run it. The b is a good pipe, that is much better than stock. Also what works on one person's motor doesn't work on everyone's. My waterline routing isn't the same as everyone's on here, and I can tell you that my screw settings aren't either. It's all preference.

I have a b-mod, and it rips. I would like to try the new eme pipe when it comes out.

 

[Watty]

I want to hear about this no such thing as bolt on performance.

What I'm trying to say here is that it is very rare (or you are very lucky) to be able to bolt on a part that is tunable and have it run to it's full potential without touching/changing anything. 99% of the time you could get more out of a partiular setup by making changes to help everything work in union.

 

[waxhead]

you can bolt something on and have it go better
you want it to go right it takes some tunning and dialing

 

[x2ryder]

To get back on the subject. Does anyone know if you have to trim your hull or hood for this pipe? Thanks

 

[waxhead]

yes they contact your hood slightly

 

[x2ryder]

Do you have to cut the hood at all?

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

the boats that I have seen with Type 9s had trimmed hood liners, and or hood seal area lip trimmed.

 

[MADMAT]

Mine had both.

 

[waxhead]

Me to

 

[x2ryder]

What did you use to cut it? I have a roto zip.

 

[Mouthfulloflake]

I would recommend a Stihl 036

 

[750SX]

I trimmed my hood lip with a dremel and a sanderwheel.

 

[Watty]

The last 2 I had didn't need any hood lip mods, but yes, they needed the liner cut a little bit.

 

[Kennay]

Thats right and this is one of them and the most important for initial exhaust removal aka throttle response. Get er out and let the wave and all the rest of do its thing but get er out now on initial brap. Makes total sense IMO.

Soooooooooo, please explain how the b pipe with the smaller opening would back up your theory on having throttle response? I'm pretty sure that the piece on the type 4/9/whatever is larger in diameter (Under the coupler) than the exhaust manifold hole where the headpipe starts on the b pipe. If it's not marger, it's really damn close. And the coupler section on the b-pipe has nothing to do with it, so you might as well not mention it.

 

[MADMAT]

I don't know then I would have to see the measurements.

By looking at the pipes I have had the B appears to have a bigger initial outburst.

And having sold 3 dry pipes in my day and bolting B's on to the same set up (jetting probably changed but I can't remember right now) I can say for sure that the B dominates throttle response in my experience.

 

[Kennay]

So bored out, the b is like 48-49mm? I don't know exactly what it is on the dry, but it is probably the same size as the stinger, or close. And the stinger is what, 2"?

 

[MADMAT]

OK I rode a perfectly dialed in type 9 SJ (Surfer-RC51) with ALL the goodies and it hits HARD on the bottom. But it is a 777cc race ga$ alum flywheel lightweight hood $kat pumped mon$ter.

But what would it to with a B?oke:

 

[Kennay]

Any idea if it is a 64x or 61x bigbore?

 

[x2ryder]

I just took my 98 SJ out today for the 1st time with a Type 9 and a advent ignition. All I can say is WOW!!! It had all the hit of the b pipe and pulled like crazy on top. With over half a tank of gas I gpsed it at 58.3mph.

 

[Kennay]

Everybody knows drypipes suck though, so I am calling bs.