Are weight modifications worth it for flat water?

M

menatep

I'm about to rebuild one of my RN superjets and i'm wondering if weight reduction modifications are really worth it.

I'm a 31 year old, 5'11" guy weighting 200 lbs without a full body wetsuit. Probably 210 lbs with a wet wetsuit and life vest. I work out a lot so i'm not light, but I don't think it's realistic for a guy my size to expect ever being able to do backflips or barrel rolls on flatwater no matter how much weight i take off the jetski.

So for someone my size, is it worth to spend all the money on hull weight reductions or not really?

How much less does a cf hood weigh?
How much less do those lightweight hulls weigh?
How much less does a RRP or XMETAL pole weigh?

The only weight reduction i see as making sense is the lightened charging flywheel because we are taking off rotational mass here, and each pound of rotational mass equates to approximately 7 pounds of non-rotational mass.

In terms of bang for the buck, should i be focusing more on engine power? My engine is already modified i suspect, but i won't know for sure how modified it is until i disassemble it and find out what's been done.
 
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SuperJETT

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
My ski is ~50-60 lbs lighter than stock, it's a huge difference.

However, barrel rolls on flatwater are 90% technique, 10% ski to me and you will be able to roll a stock weight ski with a limited engine setup easily if you have the right technique.
 
SuperJETT

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
Just to summarize what I did: light top deck, partial bulkhead, less foam, lighter battery, lighter hood, lighter waterbox.
 
RiverRat

RiverRat

.......
Location
Louisville, Ky
SuperJETT said:
The next one will be...

You're mean...

How's the X-Jet holding up? :stups:
Click to expand...

There are parts of the x-jet bottom deck is 5 states now :bananapowerslide:

If I had to do it all over again I would just build a DASA 16mm stroker and put it in a stock reinforced hull.

Defiantly run a small tank and small battery. If it is not important dont run it. Build a big motor and be done with it. If the hull explodes for some reason get a used one for like 500 bucks and raddle can that beast
 
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M

menatep

So i guess some of you regret what you've done.... or now realize that the route you took with your modifications wasn't the best route.

What are some of the things that you regret?

SuperJett, how much do you weigh yourself? and how tall are you? If not a secret. I just watched your newski video in your conversion thread and that hull gets pretty smacked against the trailer at 1:38 :)
 
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SuperJETT

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
I'm 5'10" and around 190 right now.

The trailer has teflon rub rails on the bunks, I've loaded my skis like that since I built the trailer back in 95.
 
snowxr

snowxr

V watch your daughters V
Location
Waterford, MI
Trade ya. I dropped to 145, and my ski weighs 250. It won't even stay in the water! Can I get a few of those calzones to stuff under the hood?
 
Grunion

Grunion

Location
az
I was around 190 before I got shot and I could barrel roll. I am 240 now and only rode a few time in the last 10 years but if I was out riding for a few months I am sure I can still do it.
 
D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
remove anything that is not needed to make the ski run. i run no foam, no reinforcing, no bilge pump,no rear exhaust, no bling, just the stuff to make brap. the stock pole is light and has foam in it. keep the nose foam too if you still have it, run a etx9 deka battery, layup some glassboard and cut it into pieces that work as braces/gussets to support the area under your footholds. make sure you leave a void at the bottom so water can still pass thru to your hull drains. go ahead and put some in the back of the hull above the bond line as well to give your ski some strenth. Make an under hood hull brace to keep the sides of your top deck from caving in. only use the lightest performance parts you can afford. you will be happy with the result and still have the 5-6k to throw into your motor to make it run pissed off.

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SuperJETT

SuperJETT

So long and thanks for all the fish
Location
none
I know you're all about going super light adn removing non-essential items, but don't you need an engine???
 
THRUST

THRUST

ThrustInnovations.com
Location
royal palm beach florida
light hulls make a huge difference if you dont go to light where you compromise strength and go with a good builder, poles are for strength , flywheels work if they are rad ,tbm, or jetnetics,msd as well , changing a just a hood you wont notice . large engines are more cost too upfront and will require more long term cost . But suprjett is right it is alot about technic to do rolls you can do it on a 760cc but it sure makes it ieasier to learn on a 828cc , back flips you need a larger engine and trim and preferred a afermarket hull or you may be attempting for years . In the end do what you can afford to spend on the hobbby for how much you ride or plan to ride . But dont wast you time scraping glue and drilling holes and such unless you have it apart anyways
 
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