B-pipe Help

[Reiber]

I'm finishing up a build and I'm having issues with the top adjustment screw on the B-pipe interfering with the hood. In the pictures you can see how far above the B-pipe the screw sits. Does anyone have a remedy for this? My plan was originally to shorten the screw and lower the raised pad the screw is threaded into, but I'm not sure if this is a good idea. Any info helps!

Thanks, Bryan

 

[xzibit a]

your ada head is on backwards. Im the outlets are always supposed to be on the carb side.

Also it would help to know what ski it is, if you only need a few millimeters then grinding the hood may be the easiest option.

 

[Reiber]

your ada head is on backwards. Im the outlets are always supposed to be on the carb side.

Also it would help to know what ski it is, if you only need a few millimeters then grinding the hood may be the easiest option.

In the process of fixing that now, bought the motor that way. Thank you for pointing that out.

The hull is a custom hull that a friend built for me. I need about 3/16" to be safe. Grinding the hood isn't really an option right now.

 

[xzibit a]

Cut the screw flush with the nut. Cut a slot in to to use a Flat blade screw driver to adjust it. And if you still need more room machine down the bpipe inlet( where it mounts to the manifold. That will lower the overall height as well.

 

[yamahaulass]

If the hood has a liner I would think about drilling a 1/2 inch hole exactly where it hits.

 

[speedysprocket]

Your b pipe is just like everyone else's. You could have someone turn the end of the screw down on a lathe (so you keep the angle for the seat) and grind the boss down. I would not machine where the pipe bolts to the manifold because then you may cause other issues with alignment. Or best yet, cut a hole in the hood and glass a bubble in to clear the screw, like the roof on GT40s built for Dan Gurney!


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[eastcoastjumper]

If it's that close to your hood you might want a little more clearance than you think

Your motor vibrates and riding throwing your ski around shifts it quite a bit at times.


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[Reiber]

Thanks everyone for all your input, it really helps. Like eastcoastjumper said, I thought I had enough clearance by just drilling the liner, but after the first ride you can see that the screw really started to grind into the outer shell of the hood. (Picture below) I would love to avoid bubbling the hood as the hood was just freshly painted and looks pretty nice. I'm a machinist by trade so I can pretty much do any of the stuff you stated (Mill the manifold side, shorten screw etc.) I just wasn't sure what the safest route was. I would really hate to botch a nice B-pipe.

 

[Quinc]

sell the bpipe and get a lay down style like pfp or tnt etc.

 

[Reiber]

Any thoughts on ditching the jam nut and using loctite?

 

[JetManiac]

Any thoughts on ditching the jam nut and using loctite?

Not a problem if you run that screw closed, red loctite it shut.

 

[Reiber]

I have been running it about an 1/8th turn open, for more bottom end I believe?