B1 aluminum pump shoe! Perfect fit!

Location
Orlando
Match the ring diameter? Ill figure it out when I get everything apart. I am assuming I will just test fit like you stated and then 5200 the new pump shoe to the hull. Is this correct?
 

snowxr

V watch your daughters V
Location
Waterford, MI
Match the ring diameter? Ill figure it out when I get everything apart. I am assuming I will just test fit like you stated and then 5200 the new pump shoe to the hull. Is this correct?

5200 is not the best glue for this application. Use Bostik 920FS or epoxy resin with structural filler. Otherwise, you've got the right idea.
 
Location
Orlando
5200 is not the best glue for this application. Use Bostik 920FS or epoxy resin with structural filler. Otherwise, you've got the right idea.

OK, where do I get the Bostik 920FS? Do I glue it up everywhere it meets the hull and the seal the rest up with silicon like the pump?

Never had to replace a pump shoe, this is my first time. Sorry for all the questions, but I want to do it right the first time.
 

snowxr

V watch your daughters V
Location
Waterford, MI
Oops, I meant 940 FS it's available online or at marine stores. No need for silicone on a pump shoe, just apply the adhesive to all mating surfaces.
 
Location
Orlando
Oops, I meant 940 FS it's available online or at marine stores. No need for silicone on a pump shoe, just apply the adhesive to all mating surfaces.

Cool. I think I'll go wit the 940FS. Easy to find for me at my local West Marine. Got the shoe yesterday. Now If only I can get the one spinning ride plate bolt out I can begin working on this. I don't see any fastener inside the rear of the hull. May have to cut through some glass to find the spinning insert.
 
Location
Orlando
Tried installing today. Im having a few issues. At first the shoe would not seat correctly at all because it was binding on the left side of the "ramp". A little hit with the flap wheel got that squared away. Now I can only get three of the four holes lined up. Thinking I could enlarge the slightly to fix, but not sure. The last issue is that the flange is not laying flush against the bulkhead near the bottom. There is about a 1/4" gap that won't lay flush.

Do I need to remove more material to get this to lay right? It stated it was a "drop in" part, but so far it is not dropping in easily for me. As far as I can tell there has never been any damage to the pump well and the broken plastic shoe was the original one.

I'd like to have this done before the weekend if I could.

See pics below:
 

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snowxr

V watch your daughters V
Location
Waterford, MI
Jpass, Now that I see the pictures, the little gap you asked about is room for your adhesive. Have you put the pump in to check alignment? As I stated in my PM, fill the old holes with epoxy and drill new holes once aligned, so the screws have good bite. We drill our holes smaller than OEM and some have opened them up, as well. Either way will work.
 
Location
Orlando
Jpass, Now that I see the pictures, the little gap you asked about is room for your adhesive. Have you put the pump in to check alignment? As I stated in my PM, fill the old holes with epoxy and drill new holes once aligned, so the screws have good bite. We drill our holes smaller than OEM and some have opened them up, as well. Either way will work.

I am assuming I can use any old epoxy from home depot to fill the holes. Do you recommend anything specific? My biggest concern was the gap in picture #2. It's about 1/4" wide. Big enough to get a screw driver in between it. I am also slightly concerned about the alignemnt of the gaps in the bottom of the "ramp" with the sides of the pump tunnel. I am assuming it should sit straight in there and not be slightly cocked, like it currently sits.

I will buy the epoxy and maybe some longer screws to help get more bite with the gap that may exist. What is the best way to check the pump alignment? I see checking the top of the pump seal to be a little difficult. Suggestions?
 
Location
Orlando
OK, so it's finally in, but not without a lot of grinding, filing, and test fitting. The inside curved part of the flange needed to be thinned out quite a bit. It was mis-aligning the pump and causing a gap between the pump seal and the shoe. If I laid the shoe on it's back (pump mount side down), the inside of the shoe flange was not the same thickness all the way round and pretty rough to say the least. It took me over two hours of grinding and filing to get the thickness right where it mounted cleanly, especially the curved part near the top of the pump tunnel. And once this was done, my original holes lined up perfectly.

I think this was a great part, but with a little more attention to detail, it could absolutely be a drop in item. Hopefully I never have to do this again.
 
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