DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
All that old school iron 5 port powa blasted that little oem cap right out!!!
BA Freak (155 conversion) & carbon circus
- Thread starter DylanS
- Start date
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
I would cut the aluminum down more so the fitting will clean steering cable better.
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
cable goes on other side , I had that exact issue and it was a major nightmare tho. Ended up just welding a gob onto the pump and cutting the threads down on the fitting.
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
gettin there
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
needs more Sanoman purple I thinkQuite colorful
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
And now we get rowdy (or we blow it up and buy a JM engine whichever comes first)
Last edited:
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
- Location
- Texas
You're gonna need these...
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
I’m gonna need therapy ^
Sorry to see this Dylan.
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Sheesh man what happened to your new crank?
- Location
- Ahwahnee, CA
That is massively disappointing. Sorry to see that. Looks like water in the bottom end and (obviously) a snapped rod. Hydrolock situation?
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
Well it ran great and I distinctly remember taking it off the stand and cranking it for her and thinking hm that sounds like it’s only cranking properly on one cylinder. She went out rode it brought it back I put it on the stand started it and cleared it out before the drive home. Went to do a compression check and the front cylinder was down 8 lbs (now wobbling in the bore) and the rear was absolutely smoked and wouldn’t even crank over.
I believe the rod end bearing and thrust washer let loose from water ingestion while running and obviously the rust occurred when once again water washed back from the water box and into the rear cylinder before I made the long drive.
I started to assume at the end there that maybe I had a leaking exhaust manifold gasket because I couldn’t figure where all that water was coming from but on tear down the gaskets looked mint. Im sure water down the carbs from me heehawing it around is what got to her in the first place.
To be honest I’ve been very very much on the fence on just going back to a reliable b piped 701 build so I could at least cruise around the lake instead of playing 15 foot off the shore for 7 minutes at a time. Fortunately it’s just money and they make more of it every day!
I believe the rod end bearing and thrust washer let loose from water ingestion while running and obviously the rust occurred when once again water washed back from the water box and into the rear cylinder before I made the long drive.
I started to assume at the end there that maybe I had a leaking exhaust manifold gasket because I couldn’t figure where all that water was coming from but on tear down the gaskets looked mint. Im sure water down the carbs from me heehawing it around is what got to her in the first place.
To be honest I’ve been very very much on the fence on just going back to a reliable b piped 701 build so I could at least cruise around the lake instead of playing 15 foot off the shore for 7 minutes at a time. Fortunately it’s just money and they make more of it every day!
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
Smaller things in the works… unfortunately lame home remodeling stuff came up so I couldn’t pull the trigger on one of those sexy JM engines.
Will be a .5 overbore 760 w/oem pistons and crank. All the bolt on goodies. Considering changing from the rrp pipe to a b pipe but we will see how it goes. “But Dylan, you won’t have any hit with 50mm carbs on that engine!!”
Silence! I will not hear such treasonous 50mm carb slander!
Anyways got a donor short block, picked up cyls and a head off the X, and have it torn down and began mild case porting.
Will take about .055 off the base of the cyls and have the domes cut to accommodate the piston travel above deck. I believe oem piston crown angle is 9 degrees so if the machinist maintains the 10.5 degree Ada squish we should be golden at around .032 clearance.
End goal being a reliable stout little cheap(ish) 760 short block build.
Will be a .5 overbore 760 w/oem pistons and crank. All the bolt on goodies. Considering changing from the rrp pipe to a b pipe but we will see how it goes. “But Dylan, you won’t have any hit with 50mm carbs on that engine!!”
Silence! I will not hear such treasonous 50mm carb slander!
Anyways got a donor short block, picked up cyls and a head off the X, and have it torn down and began mild case porting.
Will take about .055 off the base of the cyls and have the domes cut to accommodate the piston travel above deck. I believe oem piston crown angle is 9 degrees so if the machinist maintains the 10.5 degree Ada squish we should be golden at around .032 clearance.
End goal being a reliable stout little cheap(ish) 760 short block build.
DylanS
Gorilla Smasher
- Location
- Lebanon Pa
used a light duct tape to mask off sealing surfaces and traced the grooves with a exacto.
I used a medium abrasive in a portable bucket sand blaster at 120psi to clean my stuff up. Then hit it with some 2+2 break clean and the air hose. Works ok if you don’t have a full setup.
Using JB weld here to reinforce. I won’t be hogging the cases out to the point of removing the metal entirely but it’s going to be thinner. The epoxy will never see fuel as I personally would not expose jb weld to fuel long term. I like to use the heat gun to make the epoxy run easier and work the bubbles and air out with a screw driver. Once it starts to set up I will smooth it out real nice then run a razor over the cases to remove excess.
Started working on the cyls in the mean time. I have a cheapo right angle air grinder I like to use to clean up the casting and get my angles correct so when I remove the sleeves I have a better idea of what’s going on.
Pic attached shows the indent where I ground the excess casting out on the side. When the sleeves are pulled I will even this out and slightly taper the transfer casting(s) from the bottom up. I will also fix the horribly crooked port edges and chamfer.
Pic of mini Grinder.
I used a medium abrasive in a portable bucket sand blaster at 120psi to clean my stuff up. Then hit it with some 2+2 break clean and the air hose. Works ok if you don’t have a full setup.
Using JB weld here to reinforce. I won’t be hogging the cases out to the point of removing the metal entirely but it’s going to be thinner. The epoxy will never see fuel as I personally would not expose jb weld to fuel long term. I like to use the heat gun to make the epoxy run easier and work the bubbles and air out with a screw driver. Once it starts to set up I will smooth it out real nice then run a razor over the cases to remove excess.
Started working on the cyls in the mean time. I have a cheapo right angle air grinder I like to use to clean up the casting and get my angles correct so when I remove the sleeves I have a better idea of what’s going on.
Pic attached shows the indent where I ground the excess casting out on the side. When the sleeves are pulled I will even this out and slightly taper the transfer casting(s) from the bottom up. I will also fix the horribly crooked port edges and chamfer.
Pic of mini Grinder.