Back From the Dead - Yamaha FX-2

[VXSXH20]

Just curious, I’ve never ridden wit footholds. I like you setup. But do you feet ever get caught in those when you wipeout? I’d be worried about breaking an ankle if my foot got stuck…

Negative, They are not a tight fit on my feet. I wear a self draining kayak shoe. i have plenty of grip and room to move around. I do typically end up left foot forward. In the front toe hold or upper left corner of tray and right foot is typically about 1-2 o'clock position rearward in the channeled foot hold. My toe of the right shoe is planted against the tray side. if i want to launch off a boat wake. I can slow down and put right foot at the very back of the tray. Push down and lean back-Throttle up all at the same time and "Braaappp-Houston we have lift off! "

As far as wipe out goes. The tray is usually super wet and while not slippery, it is very easy to slide out of. I do not keep my feet stabbed in parallel at the rear channels often. That is for slow speed goofing around and getting the nose up then pop it for a sub or similar. still very easy to slip out of and ive pushed the ski away from me many times half a second into a wipeout

 

[DrewOregonian]

Negative, They are not a tight fit on my feet. I wear a self draining kayak shoe. i have plenty of grip and room to move around. I do typically end up left foot forward. In the front toe hold or upper left corner of tray and right foot is typically about 1-2 o'clock position rearward in the channeled foot hold. My toe of the right shoe is planted against the tray side. if i want to launch off a boat wake. I can slow down and put right foot at the very back of the tray. Push down and lean back-Throttle up all at the same time and "Braaappp-Houston we have lift off! "

As far as wipe out goes. The tray is usually super wet and while not slippery, it is very easy to slide out of. I do not keep my feet stabbed in parallel at the rear channels often. That is for slow speed goofing around and getting the nose up then pop it for a sub or similar. still very easy to slip out of and ive pushed the ski away from me many times half a second into a wipeout

Great thanks for the input!

 

[DrewOregonian]

Hold your breath…

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What do you have your allthread mounted to for your pump/tunnel alignment process? Do you remember what size you used?

 

[brapperdoodle]

What do you have your allthread mounted to for your pump/tunnel alignment process? Do you remember what size you used?

I actually didn’t mount it to anything, I could have used just bolts. I used 3/8” all thread at the time. I had set the hull on the ground and used padding to get the hull in the correct position to align the pump tunnel. You will have to blend it all together when you’re finished, don’t worry about the smoothness of the bottom side of the hull. Focus your attention on the alignment and drive shaft depth. Do you have a cold fusion tool?? It is necessary to get the closest possible alignment.

 

[DrewOregonian]

do you

So a lot has happened since the last update! I was able to secure paper work for this broken hull. I also picked up a decent titled FX-1 in the mean time. I am still going to fix the broken hull, but I have already started to work on the complete ski I picked up. I decided to group them together in this thread rather than starting another thread.

I got the ski stripped down and ready for work!

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I then de-turfed the ski haha is that even proper inglish?


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after the removal and some light clean up, it was time to start cutting. I decided to use some tape to help me keep a relatively straight line while making the cuts for removing the tray. I got super lucky and the tray came out in 1 piece!!!

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I figured, hey, why stop now? Get to digging!

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Do you have a measurement of how far to cut back in order to stay out of the bulkhead? As well as the rear portion of the tray?

 

[brapperdoodle]

do you

Do you have a measurement of how far to cut back in order to stay out of the bulkhead? As well as the rear portion of the tray?

Yes, I will measure and let you know later!

 

[brapperdoodle]

So I cut my tray out at about 2.25” from the dash, maybe a little less and I barely hit into the bulkhead. I would say 2.5” would be perfect and would clear the bulkhead completely. It’s also about 2.5” from the rear of the tray. Make sure you use tape to clearly mark your lines, and drill a small hole in each corner so you don’t get a square angle in the corners. I didn’t do that but I would have if I did it again. You don’t need to cut down the gunnels the same way I did, that will just be determined by what you want to do with the gunnels. I cut mine really high but you could cut inside and probably be a little better for closing it back up…





I also got my foam put in and for some reason the left side shrank after I put some heat on it! I had both sides shaped perfectly and the right side didn’t shrink… not sure how this happened but I will need to fix the deep dimples before glass… I love adding more steps ha.

 

[Sanoman]

Some clean looking work there!

 

[Jhucke]

You need to splash this hull, I would drop money on an aftermarket FX-1 hull. I don't think anyone does them anymore.

 

[DrewOregonian]

So I cut my tray out at about 2.25” from the dash, maybe a little less and I barely hit into the bulkhead. I would say 2.5” would be perfect and would clear the bulkhead completely. It’s also about 2.5” from the rear of the tray. Make sure you use tape to clearly mark your lines, and drill a small hole in each corner so you don’t get a square angle in the corners. I didn’t do that but I would have if I did it again. You don’t need to cut down the gunnels the same way I did, that will just be determined by what you want to do with the gunnels. I cut mine really high but you could cut inside and probably be a little better for closing it back up…
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I also got my foam put in and for some reason the left side shrank after I put some heat on it! I had both sides shaped perfectly and the right side didn’t shrink… not sure how this happened but I will need to fix the deep dimples before glass… I love adding more steps ha.

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Thanks for this info. Impressive work!

 

[brapperdoodle]

Glassy gunnels… this was actually a PITA

 

[DrewOregonian]

Cool, it won't be strictly salt water use but it will be in the surf hopefully a few times a year! Today I will be aligning the pump and dropping in some thickened epoxy with chopped strand around the 144 tunnel. This will be my initial setting of the pump cavity. I am expecting the epoxy to get into the tighter areas and give me enough hold. After it cures I will be doing some sanding of the excess epoxy and then finally glassing in the 144 tunnel! I can't wait until all the sanding is over haha

Did you go with stainless?

 

[brapperdoodle]

Did you go with stainless?

Yes, 316 Stainless 1/2" cooling lines and 5/8" trim tube from McMaster...

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Exhaust tube is just aluminum because the only stainless pipe long enough that was the correct size was hundreds of dollars. I got my aluminum pipe from HPS hose

https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/...e-pipe-piping-seamless?variant=40434210504894

 

[DrewOregonian]

INSERT comment below…

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did you seat you insert into the tunnel? I'm just curious what their depth is?

 

[DrewOregonian]

Got the tunnel “flaps” filled with thickened epoxy and made a template for reinforcement of the handlepole area. I cut my glass and set it off! 1 layer of 1708 biax

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this is thickened epoxy and lose strands?

 

[brapperdoodle]

did you seat you insert into the tunnel? I'm just curious what their depth is?

this is thickened epoxy and lose strands?

No, the inserts are just resting in place. I used the bolts from underneath to keep them upright and secure. Make sure you use grease or anti-seize on the bolts if you do this though! You don't want the epoxy seeping into the threads and locking the hardware in place!

Yes, thickened epoxy using cabosil and chopped strand. You can get it really thick and then when it starts to flash, use a small amount of fresh resin on your fingertip and this will allow you to shape the blob without it sticking to you finger... your finger in a glove that is, don't touch the resin with bare hands. Don't use much though because if you get it wet with fresh epoxy it will make the blob start to run and lose shape. Also I use a small digital scale to mix my resin, my mix is 3:1 so I just do the math and mix accordingly. This is also very helpful if you add too much thickener and want to add some resin to it and make it the correct consistency. When I first started glassing, I used the pumps for 1oz increments, meaning I was mixing 4oz of resin at 1 time just for a tiny bit! Using the scale I can mix small amounts, I buy multiple size plastic cups from the grocery store and use different cups depending on how much resin I need. US Composites sells boxes of 500 tongue depressors and those are great mixing sticks. You should also get some rollers to help remove air bubbles from your glass mat. I typically just use a 2" chip brush and dab at the mat and that works very well, also using your fingers and massaging the mat helps remove bubbles but the rollers are still very helpful.

 

[jpswift1]

Yes, 316 Stainless 1/2" cooling lines and 5/8" trim tube from McMaster...

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Exhaust tube is just aluminum because the only stainless pipe long enough that was the correct size was hundreds of dollars. I got my aluminum pipe from HPS hose

https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/...e-pipe-piping-seamless?variant=40434210504894

Is there any big difference if you're using an aluminum tube or a 316 stainless tube (besides price) for the rear exhaust tube? I ended up getting the correct 2-3/8" diameter aluminum exhaust tube (that'll fit the 2-3/8" RN Superjet exhaust hose) for my FX1 that I'm upgrading the exhaust system on. It's made of 6061 T6 aluminum and it was $39 plus $9.99 shipping for a 3 foot section. 6061 is good for marine use, corrosion resistant, and has good weldability. https://www.mvpmotorsports.com/hps-performance-products/hps-aluminum-tubing-straight/ast3f238

 

[Myself]

VERY nice work. It can be extremely time consuming to get that nice smooth symmetrical finish.

 

[brapperdoodle]

Is there any big difference if you're using an aluminum tube or a 316 stainless tube (besides price) for the rear exhaust tube? I ended up getting the correct 2-3/8" diameter aluminum exhaust tube (that'll fit the 2-3/8" RN Superjet exhaust hose) for my FX1 that I'm upgrading the exhaust system on. It's made of 6061 T6 aluminum and it was $39 plus $9.99 shipping for a 3 foot section. 6061 is good for marine use, corrosion resistant, and has good weldability. https://www.mvpmotorsports.com/hps-performance-products/hps-aluminum-tubing-straight/ast3f238

I think the main difference is that the stainless would be ultimate corrosion resistance, whereas the aluminum can corrode in the right conditions. Obviously the stainless would weigh a bit more also. Bust almost all the aftermarket hulls use an aluminum tube as well as the RN Superjet. If your tray is sealed properly, I don't think the aluminum tube will ever be a concern. Only if water, especially salt water is allowed to enter the tray and sit around and on the aluminum would it start to corrode. I believe that the oily coating inside the exhaust tube would pretty much make it impervious to any corrosion. I guess time will tell!

 

[jpswift1]

I think the main difference is that the stainless would be ultimate corrosion resistance, whereas the aluminum can corrode in the right conditions. Obviously the stainless would weigh a bit more also. Bust almost all the aftermarket hulls use an aluminum tube as well as the RN Superjet. If your tray is sealed properly, I don't think the aluminum tube will ever be a concern. Only if water, especially salt water is allowed to enter the tray and sit around and on the aluminum would it start to corrode. I believe that the oily coating inside the exhaust tube would pretty much make it impervious to any corrosion. I guess time will tell!

Excellent points! Thank you for the reply. I ride exclusively in fresh water, so I think I'd be fine. I could always paint the aluminum before I reglass my FX1 tray and put new foam in there. I was also wondering about the RN Superjet exhaust tube. It appears to be aluminum, but I wasn't sure.