Super Jet Basic B*tch Superjet Build

The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
So..I've only ridden this ski for one season but I already decided this ski needs a complete going thru over the winter.

It was built back in 2011 according to a build thread I found, but lots of the visual custom work is already rotting. Needs new paint. The Turf is okay but I might as well re-turf it while im at it. The tubbies were not fiber glassed on well and I almost ripped one off earlier this year. The ski looks decent in pictures but in person you can easily see the imperfections.

Hull goals-
Clean up custom fiberglass jobs.
Paint
New turf

For the drive line im thinking about getting a 144 mag pump, B pipe, and a big bore 701. Then later transfer it to a EME Q8 hull or something along those lines.

Im going to have to do this at my parents house, while i go to school 6 hours away. Ill only be able to work on this over my Christmas and spring break. Im currently off for thanksgiving and tore the hull bare and getting ready to start working once i get back.

When I tore the turf and padding off The foothold job looks to be sub standard, With multiple holes open to the tray foam. With the hull completely bare(no turf) It weighed in at 160lb. Ugh! So ill have to squeeze in a complete foam job and footholds in with everything else. I already hate myself for starting this project! You can see in the pictures of the mess I gotten into.

Unfortunately I will have to end my sponsorship with Rockstar for the build lol, but I think its time to move on!
 

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The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
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Cut the tray out, saved the old footholds to reuse, and went to the wash to get the rest out. Now it weighs in at 109lbs, im hoping to keep it under 120 when I re-foam and glass the new tray in. I should have enough time on cutting 4-5" inches off the back, I want to rocker the front too but i doubt ill be able to squeeze that job in too unless if I get a kit.

Its a wrap for now, two more weeks of school and ill be back to give this sj a facelift.

Anyone know of a CarterB rocker kit floating around?
 

The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
After getting gored alive by finals(still got two exams left) i decided to reward myself with a solas 144 mag and new factory pipe. I still need to get materials to fiberglass.

I think i'm going to go with a versiplug max and ditch the bilges.

Once I get home i'm just going to focus on the rear tray first, do a 5" chop, add a hull drain tube, close cell foam, widen the tray and such. If time allows ill get a carter B kit. Or else ill just leave the front alone.

Lots of snow up here in the UP Michigan, getting a sled is tempting but i'm getting ready to sell one of my kidneys to fund this superjet build so that ain't going to happen!
 

High Speed Industries

Your one stop shop for quality parts @highspeedind
I'm having flashbacks of my build. I love seeing superjets get built.

Too many AM hull "builds" on here.

I like that you're actually getting your hands dirty. It's not just a ski assembly thread.

Don't cut any corners. Make that thing sick!!!
 

The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
That’s why I started this in the first place @Rdrttoy! Bunch of imperfections were driving me nuts, I notice the small stuff...I work at a little custom car shop over the summers and I can spend days on just tweaking a fender or other little things. I’m planning on doing this right, if I gotta keep on working into the summer that’s fine by me.


It’s going to be my first time building a ski and working with fiberglass like this, so I’m probably going to ask a lot of questions to make sure I don’t use the wrong materials or something else stupid. (I’m going to do my best searching the forums first before spamming questions lol)
 

The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
I talked to a few local people on the types of materials to use for glassing and came up with a list. For the composites i'll be ordering 8.9oz s glass and 6oz e glass with 3-4 yards each?(this will be my first time so I want room for error, unless if that will be overkill), couple yards of 4" wide fiberglass tape, gallon of 635 3:1 epoxy resin, 3:1 pump, and rollers.

Let me know if you think I'm missing anything important. I'm confident in glassing, i just want to make sure ill be ordering the correct materials for the job.
 

The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
So Today I got home and started going ahead. I removed the tubbies(junk. probably not putting them back on) and some reinforcement in the engine bay. I started the front rocker, after some grinding i was able to get the mold to fit quite well. looks great. The only problem is there is a gap, oops! Even though I did follow the paper tracer, It looks like the one side of the mold is a little short then the other. My fault though, I should have cut a little undersized. Ill make it work.

otherwise progress looks pretty good. going to get materials tomorrow and start the rear chop.


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The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
So the composite guy talked me into buying vinyl ester resin, after doing some research I decided I'm going back tomorrow to trade for epoxy. VE has stronger and more dangerous fumes then epoxy. That was the selling point to switch since I'm doing this in a low ventilation tent and in my parents garage next my dads newly restored car. I don't want my parents to kick me out lol.
 

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
So the composite guy talked me into buying vinyl ester resin, after doing some research I decided I'm going back tomorrow to trade for epoxy. VE has stronger and more dangerous fumes then epoxy. That was the selling point to switch since I'm doing this in a low ventilation tent and in my parents garage next my dads newly restored car. I don't want my parents to kick me out lol.
Forget what your parents think, get the Epoxy just for your health...and because it's stronger.

Epoxy resin is known in the marine industry for its incredible toughness and bonding strength. Quality epoxy resins stick to other materials with 2,000-p.s.i. vs. only 500-p.s.i. for vinylester resins and less for polyesters. In areas that must be able to flex and strain WITH the fibers without micro-fracturing, epoxy resins offer much greater capability. Cured epoxy tends to be very resistant to moisture absorption. Epoxy resin will bond dissimilar or already-cured materials which makes repair work that is very reliable and strong. Epoxy actually bonds to all sorts of fibers very well and also offers excellent results in repair-ability when it is used to bond two different materials together.



Vinylester resins are stronger than polyester resins and cheaper than epoxy resins. Vinylester resins utilize a polyester resin type of cross-linking molecules in the bonding process. Vinylester is a hybrid form of polyester resin which has been toughened with epoxy molecules within the main moleculer structure. Vinyester resins offer better resistance to moisture absorption than polyester resins but it's downside is in the use of liquid styrene to thin it out (not god to breath that stuff) and its sensitivity to atmospheric moisture and temperature. Sometimes it won't cure if the atmospheric conditions are not right. It also has difficulty in bonding dissimilar and already-cured materials. It is not unusual for repair patches on vinylester resin canoes to delaminate or peel off. As vinylester resin ages, it becomes a different resin so new vinylester resin sometimes resists bonding to your older canoe. It is also known that vinylester resins bond very well to fiberglass, but offer a poor bond to kevlar and carbon fibers. Do to the touchy nature of vinylester resin, careful surface preparation is necessary if reasonable adhesion is desired for any repair work.
 

The440Dude

I'm broke
Location
Hudson WI
I got a heater, i'm able to get my work shack up to a balmy 80 degrees. Makes the fiberglass harden crazy fast compared to before. Got a couple layers on both sides, now going to get started on the nose. Less then two weeks left for break...time is going by too fast.

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