Best method of reconstructing lip?

[Shifty]

I have this over in the driveline section, hoping for a few suggestions there, but nothing yet.

I have made room in a SN hull for this 66e, in doing so I now have an issue to deal with.

I need to mold a "bulge" in this area to accommodate the 66e. What method would be the best for continuing a seal channel here?

I am thinking I should latch the hood down, feather the exterior perimeter back about two to three inches, seal the interior off and pour foam.....shape do desired bulge form and lay one layer of glass.

After that layer cures, cut glass/ foam along hood/ hull seam, seperate hood from hull and begin sanding/shaping seal channel in foam(a little undersized to allow for one layer of glass).

Once I am happy with channel glass it in. Remove foam and add additional layers on the interior for strength.



On another note, I guess it goes without saying that with no waterbox for cooling, I will need to use an aluminium pipe for the exhaust?


Thanks for the glassing tips.

 

[Boris]

Setting up the motor to sit vertical wasn't an option ?

 

[Shadow7874]

The easiest way i can think if is just to make a plate that fits over the hole you have cut out, and glass in some bolts and then put some kinda seal on the plate, then just bolt it up once the hoods on. Not only will it help hold your hood on, but it will cover that hole.

But it wont look very pretty. Although im sure u could make something that flows with the body lines kinda like a litte flare then do the same on the other side just glass it to the hood so its symetrical.

The idea sounds a bit out there, but it would look pretty cool having some flares or scoop type things on the hood area, plus it would cover your hole.

Even better, make some side scoops that function as air intake as well as cover your hole!

ya im crazy i know..........

 

[WaveDemon]

duct tape

 

[redsxr800]

duct tape

best bet

 

[Shifty]

I think the only way to get the motor to sit vertically is with the use of WDK's kit. Or some major alignment time. Since the rear mounts align perfect I didn't want to go there. Not only this but the exhaust outlet would end up exiting right above the pump. i should add, this is just a side job, not my full time ski. I just figured I have a bummed out 650 motor and a homeless 66e, what would you do (without spending much).

I may sport the Duct Tape so I can get a quick sample of the power.

 

[orangefinger]

That weight of that exhaust will sink the boat....replace that exhaust

 

[Shifty]

I don't have the cash for that; I have already spent it all on my RN. I think this will be a fine sleeper though.

 

[orangefinger]

Sleeper with a bump....:dance:

 

[suva]

Hmm, it's like you read my mind for my original 66E conversion. What ever you do, make sure it's ugly as hell.

 

[BombThreat]

really, make it look crusty as hell on the outside so its a real sleeper

 

[special fx]

What hump????

 

[Captain PegLeg]

Pretty skis are for !! I rock duct tape every weekend!! (doesn't mean i'm not jealous of pretty skis)

 

[Motorheads5]

Am I missing something here the 66e is nothing special other than it's a newer generation superjet motor right ?It look's like that exhaust is off of a couch not intended to be in a standup, I am curious because cutting up that hull like that seem's really wrong lol

 

[suva]

66e is not in a new SJ, 10mm longer stroke and powervalves.

 

[Motorheads5]

66e is not in a new SJ, 10mm longer stroke and powervalves.

OK Thank's. I was wondering.

 

[Shifty]

Yes, this ski will remain crusty until I can afford a paint job. I think I will need to order some more epoxy too.

Does anyone know if the SJ 3 pronged drive couplers will fit onto the PTO end of the 66e crankshaft? This one has the silver 5? finger coupler and the damper won't index.

 

[yamanube]

Yes, this ski will remain crusty until I can afford a paint job. I think I will need to order some more epoxy too.

Does anyone know if the SJ 3 pronged drive couplers will fit onto the PTO end of the 66e crankshaft? This one has the silver 5? finger coupler and the damper won't index.

I think you should be able to screw the 3 prong coupler onto the 66E crank. Haven't gotten that far yet. Keep it crusty, I would glue some foam onto the outside of the header and shape it with sandpaper to build the bulge and keep enough space for a hood seal area, glass over both pieces then cut the seam and build a surface for the hoodseal. Or you could just glue a piece of foam to the outside of the hull/hood (over the hole) shape that and glass over it then use it as a surface to easily build the hood lip and then sand the foam out from behind the cured glass.
Where are you going to mount the electronics and PV servo?

 

[snowxr]

At this point I would use some tape to protect the motor and close off enough area behind the hole to pour in some foam. Then you could shape it and glass over it. Once the glass is dry you can pull the motor and dig the foam out. Then glass the inside.

At least your lip won't look like these. No hope.

 

[yamanube]

At this point I would use some tape to protect the motor and close off enough area behind the hole to pour in some foam. Then you could shape it and glass over it. Once the glass is dry you can pull the motor and dig the foam out. Then glass the inside.

At least your lip won't look like these. No hope.

That picture is scary as hell, I agree though using foam is a good idea because its easy to shape and gives you a base to glass against (to get a nice solid structure). I would just use a section of insulation foam glued to the outside of the hull rather than trying to use 2 part foam (just my opinion)