- Location
- Texas
^^^^ How do these switches hold up in salt water?
Bilge switch: on the tray or on the handlebars
- Thread starter Tedwin
- Start date
BruceSki
Formerly Motoman25
- Location
- Long Island
Lasted me 3/4 of a season. Bought the same style at a local marine store and it lasted me half a season. Not much holds up to salt water.
chriselmore_1
high on resin
- Location
- san jose ca
i personally always snap the end of the toggle switches off. ive used the toggle, rotary, pull/push knob, and push button style switches. all have failed or broke. i would say the best is the rotary by a long shot and worst being the toggle style. i now run a fuse as a switch. my pumps run the whole time i ride anyways.
Last edited:
SXIPro
JM781 Big Bore
- Location
- Here on the 'X' mostly
I doubt they were the same style as the ones I sell. Mine are completely sealed, you don't even need the rubber boot. I have sold over 100 between the X and PWCToday over the last 3 years and have not heard of one failure even from the guys that ride 100% salt. I think Boris has over 2 years on his. Do some reading on the thread I posted, or search on PWCToday for reviews.
I've seen many of the so called marine switches fail. This is not your run of the mill switch that you just throw a boot over.
BruceSki
Formerly Motoman25
- Location
- Long Island
What I meant is I went through two separate switches. The one I got on here and the sealed one i got at the marine store. Maybe I was the exception though. 100% salt, and I am very anal about flushing and cleaning my ski within an hour of riding.
I have also tried the very cheap-o unsealed switches for giggles. They don't last more than three rides without shocking you and building up green corrosion in salt, but I wasn't even including that in my post before, because I knew right off the bat that a 2 dollar switch wasn't going to last long for me when I tried it.
Anyway all I am saying is in salt they all fail. I have the handlebar one now and I am on a season and a half. This has been the longest a switch has lasted me so far. Now that I said that it will probably crap out too LOL.
- Location
- Oak Forest, Illinois
Where do you get one of these?
JustinB
Proof I has a brain \l/
- Location
- Oxford, MS
Early JS400/440 start-stop switch is the best switch you can buy. They will last forever even in salt water. The only problem is finding a place on the bars to mount it....
- Location
- College Station
I go through switches like crazy, at least 2 a year. Its mounted on the tray and i have two bilges, one is constantly on with the switch, the other is a automatic bilge. it works pretty good. Everytime I go to saltwater, the switch corrodes out tho. anyody know of one that lasts please let me know. Ive had every kind from the 25 dollar 3 way marine switch, to the 2 dollar radio shack on, and honestly the cheap one lasted longer on multiple occasions. I used to have the wires coming out of the hood, and put a fuse right there so i was always putting the fuse in, but yea, it shocks the shiet out of you, especially in saltwater lol
- Location
- College Station
i like that kill switch from honda, i might try that
- Location
- Seneca, SC
Ok, I couldn't kill those switches I posted in this thread earlier. I tortured them with salt water, hot water, heat and cycled them in and out of crap for weeks. Includes operating it under water a couple hundred times.
For cheap made in Taiwan switches, they are awesome. Just over $1 each with shipping direct.
I would recommend checking them out.
I am putting one on my B1 tonight and will have it in the ocean next weekend for a real world test.
For cheap made in Taiwan switches, they are awesome. Just over $1 each with shipping direct.
I would recommend checking them out.
I am putting one on my B1 tonight and will have it in the ocean next weekend for a real world test.
- Location
- Texas
5:00, are those switches momentary contact ones or are they lock switches?
I use this switch after all the others I tried broke:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pendant-switches/=75ew83
Not to be confused with the switch that comes with the billet s/s holders, they have the rubber over the switch that is glued down right at the switch. This seal inevitably fail and water will kill the switch.
The mcmaster switch has rubber sealed all over the switch that continues down the wires so no seal to fail.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#pendant-switches/=75ew83
Not to be confused with the switch that comes with the billet s/s holders, they have the rubber over the switch that is glued down right at the switch. This seal inevitably fail and water will kill the switch.
The mcmaster switch has rubber sealed all over the switch that continues down the wires so no seal to fail.
I have been running a pairI bought from you
for 4+ years on my SN and 750 no problems
however all I ride is fresh water
- Location
- Mobile, AL
I like those McMaster switches jetmaniac posted. Only problem I see is it's pretty expensive as well (switch "D" is the only one that stays "ON"). I've got one of those super expensive sealed, handlebar mounted switches. The seal failed, and water got into it... now it's dead. It looks like the mcmaster switch would be a direct replacement though... but it's costs about the same. Truthfully, for almost $70, can't you just buy an automatic 750gph rule pump and be done?
vjhardcore
Ride It Like Ya Stole IT!
- Location
- Toronto, Canada
so quick fix...
I used the handlebar kill switch off of my KX250. I noticed the back end of it was also not sealed thoroughly for my liking...so I bought a small can of (liquid electrical tape)...gouped it all up and has been working perfectly...(surviving the subs so far)
Go Kawasaki!
I used the handlebar kill switch off of my KX250. I noticed the back end of it was also not sealed thoroughly for my liking...so I bought a small can of (liquid electrical tape)...gouped it all up and has been working perfectly...(surviving the subs so far)
Go Kawasaki!
- Location
- McCall, ID
BINGO! Best switch ever made. Now if anyone has any lying around, ill take as many as I can get.