waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
If we made a manifold for the 62t. What features would you like us to put into it. Now is your chance to help with the design to make it the best manifold on the market
Billet wax racing manifold.
- Thread starter waxhead
- Start date
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Throttle cable mount front and rear.
Make the bolts for the speed plate far enough apart that they're easy to get to, looks like you're already doing that.
Maybe put an o-ring for the speed plate on the manifold side instead of the speed plate side so the won't fall out. Might complicate machining though.
Maybe put an o-ring for the speed plate on the manifold side instead of the speed plate side so the won't fall out. Might complicate machining though.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
Yup thanks I have those going to be incorporated in the design. We will also put the cable holder on the intake manifold as well to make it nice for a rejet
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
Setup to run snowmobile reeds/cages?
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
They don't work on the 62t cases, well i don't think they do
Wrong side - pulse needs to be between Reed flange and case area.
- Location
- Corona, CA
If you're making billet, thus there's no tooling costs involved, I'd recommend looking into making specific manifolds for various carb sizes. 38, 44, 46, 48, 50, etc. Since it's billet you can get away with making minor tweaks to accommodate small changes much easier. It sucks to have to manage more parts/part numbers, but strictly speaking from a performance perspective, that'd likely be best.
Intake manifolds are optimized when you achieve the minimum threshold of airflow required, resulting in maximum possible velocity. Meaning, if you have a 38mm carb on an intake manifold sized for a 50mm carb, you're going to get excellent (excessive) flow at the expense of velocity being left on the table. You're most restrictive point/diameter should be the carb but after that the intake ideally would remain approximately the same size, thus not restricting airflow any more than the most restrictive point (the carb) while allowing maximum possible air velocity of the air/fuel mixture.
If you really want to get crazy with it, and have some good resources at your disposal, it'd be cool to see some flow analysis to help prove out my point mentioned above. This all comes to mind for me because I was in the intake designer for my Forumla SAE team in college. I made a dual injector system for our car with an opposing second injector that ran on E85. It was a turbo charged car and instead of using an intercooler we ran a the second injector as a cooling method as well as an added fuel source at higher RPM. The latent heat of vaporization of E85 fuel is very good so you get a huge drop in IAT while adding more fuel and enabling more fine-tuning of each injector when running it.
The things that project taught be was 1) Keep velocities as high as possible while not compromising flow and 2) air doesn't like to quickly change diameters or directions. You don't have much of an option in a jet ski hull given the packaging constraints, but any little bit you can straighten out the intake tract, the better.
Intake manifolds are optimized when you achieve the minimum threshold of airflow required, resulting in maximum possible velocity. Meaning, if you have a 38mm carb on an intake manifold sized for a 50mm carb, you're going to get excellent (excessive) flow at the expense of velocity being left on the table. You're most restrictive point/diameter should be the carb but after that the intake ideally would remain approximately the same size, thus not restricting airflow any more than the most restrictive point (the carb) while allowing maximum possible air velocity of the air/fuel mixture.
If you really want to get crazy with it, and have some good resources at your disposal, it'd be cool to see some flow analysis to help prove out my point mentioned above. This all comes to mind for me because I was in the intake designer for my Forumla SAE team in college. I made a dual injector system for our car with an opposing second injector that ran on E85. It was a turbo charged car and instead of using an intercooler we ran a the second injector as a cooling method as well as an added fuel source at higher RPM. The latent heat of vaporization of E85 fuel is very good so you get a huge drop in IAT while adding more fuel and enabling more fine-tuning of each injector when running it.
The things that project taught be was 1) Keep velocities as high as possible while not compromising flow and 2) air doesn't like to quickly change diameters or directions. You don't have much of an option in a jet ski hull given the packaging constraints, but any little bit you can straighten out the intake tract, the better.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
I have kept the cross section area the same all the way down the intake so it will flow for a 50mm. Most manifolds I see actually increase in area when they head out the reed block which is a major failure for air speed . I would actually like to reduce it down as a taper but I know people will not get their heads around that one. I can not see a customer buying a manifold for a set of 46s and then buying a 48mm manifold later so it has to be a bit of a compromise. Thanks for your thoughts
That hole transfers through to the other side of the reed cage. See yellow circle
Attachments
It could but it would be challenging. Airway needs to see crankcase pressures on crank side. Not much room around Reed cage at the manifold to case interface. That’s why nobody has ever done it.
- Location
- Corona, CA
Yeah I totally get it. Like I mentioned, that's perfect world from a performance perspective, but not necessarily from a business perspective. One idea may be to make a 38-46 manifold and then a 48-50 manifold. I don't really see people going from a 38/44 to a 48+ on the same motor, so you may be able to attract a customer base in that way. The biggest thing I see is differentiation (which is what you are trying to do here by soliciting feedback). I can get a PHP, Dasa, X-Scream, etc. billet intake manifold, so what separates yours from the pack and makes me want to buy it over the other options? One way that may be appealing is performance that is catered to the 38-46 guy and the 48-50 guy.
Tough to beat the stock manifold for 38 or 44/46. It does taper though, maybe somebody needs to make a "manifold stuffer" for the stock manifold(s) if Wax's theory about non-taper is better. That is a thing I had never thought of.
Actually, you could make manifold stuffers for this one too I suppose.
Good use for 3d printing.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
On A bend like that yes it would, It also tends to push the fuel to the outside.
I can do a lot of things like really ellipse the manifold down to reduce the bend as much as possible. The market is not ready for that stuff and they will simply complain as they have to grind it out. Im hoping like crazy people don't grind these things out to match the reeds.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
Yes i could make an intake stuffer. Its easy for me as I have the cad shape already designed. That's an an awesome idea and I owe you a beer when I'm let out of the detention system that is Australia
CD155MX
Squirrel!!!
- Location
- Alta Loma, CA
I love my PHP manifold, but would gladly ditch it for one that offered the same performance and made it easier to get to the dang bolts on the speed plate. They aren't impossible, but they aren't easy either.
- Location
- Glenmoore pa
Optional wedged speed plate would be cool for situations where clearance to hull is tight. Just 2-3 degrees towards motor. Obviously not ideal for performance but would make life a little easier on tiny hulls. Swappable cable mount to either side is nice (like XS). Oringed manifold to reeds/case would be nice.
Get the bondhus T handle ball end hex set. They fit and are very good quality. life changing with a PHP manifold.
Do you have a long ball end socket?
I've got a ski with a php intake and another ski with a stock 64x intake that I removed the studs and use allen headed screws so they can't fall off into the hull/intake (which the nuts on the stock intake did too many times from my fumbling). The PHP is pretty easy with that long extended ball end socket, the stock intake is a lot tougher because the screws are closer to the carbs.
