blasterdude
Waiting for the ice to thaw!!!!
- Location
- The Region
Put the stock arrestor on and pop off in the low 30's and see what happens. If I can find my notes I will post what almost all the stock 46 wj setups that I pulled apart had in them.
Blaster Blaster project
- Thread starter 98yota
- Start date
Ok so I've been researching a little bit and have found a few people have posted about issues with the temperature sensor on the head. I watched a video someone posted with a bad sensor and it sounded similar to how mine sounds at full throttle. It does not just stall out it is a rhythmic "brap-bog-brap-bog..." (Sorry that's the best I can discribe it.) I picked up a new sendor and its being shipped out. What's the worst that can happen? I'm out twenty bucks...
Also after comparing a couple SBN 44s I have on hand to my 46, I found the 46's throttle shaft to be very sloppy (1:8"+). I ordered a genuine Mikuni throttle valve kit. I'm wondering if at full throttle air was leaking through the sloppy bushings causing it to lean out. We shall see.
I'm also going to cut some new carb mount gaskets out of some 1/8 Viton material to make sure it's not leaking out of the joint between the intake manifold, spacer/cable mount, and carb. I couldn't get the studs to come out of the manifold in order to check for a square surface. I'd like to eliminate the metal cable mount because I had to make it fit with the wider bolt pattern of the Wetjet manifold and carb and it might be a weak point for a leak. Unfortunately I would have no way to mount and adjust the throttle cable if I do eliminate it.
Also after comparing a couple SBN 44s I have on hand to my 46, I found the 46's throttle shaft to be very sloppy (1:8"+). I ordered a genuine Mikuni throttle valve kit. I'm wondering if at full throttle air was leaking through the sloppy bushings causing it to lean out. We shall see.
I'm also going to cut some new carb mount gaskets out of some 1/8 Viton material to make sure it's not leaking out of the joint between the intake manifold, spacer/cable mount, and carb. I couldn't get the studs to come out of the manifold in order to check for a square surface. I'd like to eliminate the metal cable mount because I had to make it fit with the wider bolt pattern of the Wetjet manifold and carb and it might be a weak point for a leak. Unfortunately I would have no way to mount and adjust the throttle cable if I do eliminate it.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
You don't have to use the heat sensor. You can cut it off and tape the end. Just keep an eye on your pissers.
It seems like eliminating the sensor is popular. The water out of the pisser is hot but doesn't burn me. I'm only running single cooling on it with one pisser. After a run the motor is warm but again doesn't burn me when I feel it. I guess I liked the idea of the over heat sensor as a fail safe but if it doesn't run good I guess it really doesn't matter. I was going to replace it the NOS unit I picked up the other day. So if I cut the sensor out and tape the ends this will eliminate the safety but not interfere with any other systems?
Have you had one of these fail? What was it doing when it failed?
Have you had one of these fail? What was it doing when it failed?
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
You can cut it off and it will not effect anything else. There is also info in the manual on how to test if they are good.
I ordered a top mount throttle bracket and an aluminum throttle drum. This should work out well to eliminate the stock 61x throttle bracket making one less gasket to leak. This along with the new throttle shaft kit should stop any possible other air leaks. The carb flange down passed the leak test so I want to make sure the carb flange and everything above is leak free as well.
I'm going to disconnect the temperature sensor as well and see how it goes. Eventually I'll get this thing sorted out!
I'm going to disconnect the temperature sensor as well and see how it goes. Eventually I'll get this thing sorted out!
Attachments
I replaced my throttle shaft today. The original had a lot of slop. Now it is tight, slop free, and turns smoothly with zero drag. While I was in there I discovered whoever owned this carb before me had also replaced the throttle shaft. Unfortunately they installed the plate on upside down. The plate is beveled to rotate and fit in the carb bore perfectly. If it reversed the plate will never close all of the way. I'm thinking this could be part of my tuning nightmare.
I also eliminated the bracket between the carb and manifold as it seems to be an air leak waiting to happen. Now there is only one gasket between the carb and manifold. Simple is good. I used the Rad Dudes top mount throttle cable bracket. I tapped the two top holes in the carb and it mounted up perfectly. I ran some lock tight to keep it attached as planned. Once the billet throttle drum was installed I was ready to test fire. I threw in a new AGM battery for good measure and gave it a shot. I pushed the button and it fired right up. Of course I had to set the idle but now it's running good (out of the water...I know I know it means nothing without a load).
I'll let you know how the test ride goes once I finally get time to get it in the water!
I also eliminated the bracket between the carb and manifold as it seems to be an air leak waiting to happen. Now there is only one gasket between the carb and manifold. Simple is good. I used the Rad Dudes top mount throttle cable bracket. I tapped the two top holes in the carb and it mounted up perfectly. I ran some lock tight to keep it attached as planned. Once the billet throttle drum was installed I was ready to test fire. I threw in a new AGM battery for good measure and gave it a shot. I pushed the button and it fired right up. Of course I had to set the idle but now it's running good (out of the water...I know I know it means nothing without a load).
I'll let you know how the test ride goes once I finally get time to get it in the water!
Attachments
I finally got the Blaster in the water today. Even with the new throttle it still lost it at full throttle. My next option was to change to the stock flame arrestor. I threw on a factory Yamaha flame arrestor. I used a more modern setup with the rubber plug to make using fogging oil easier. I ran only one screen in the intake. I've heard this helps the air flow in this arrestor a little. I left the jetting the same to see if the stock arrestor made a difference.
Amazingly I did a quick test run and it hit full throttle again! It has been a long time since its been at full! It's not perfect but it is a set in the right direction. There is a little hesitation on hard acceleration so I think my pop off is too low. It is still set up at 14 PSI for the Ocean Pro arrestor.
What do think I should set it at with this new combo? I was thinking high 20s-low 30s.
I think the jetting is pretty close. I'm at 1 turn out on the low side. I'm 1.5 turns on the high side.
My pilot jet is a 130 and the main jet is a 165.
I think once I get the pop of set it should be pretty much dialed.
Amazingly I did a quick test run and it hit full throttle again! It has been a long time since its been at full! It's not perfect but it is a set in the right direction. There is a little hesitation on hard acceleration so I think my pop off is too low. It is still set up at 14 PSI for the Ocean Pro arrestor.
What do think I should set it at with this new combo? I was thinking high 20s-low 30s.
I think the jetting is pretty close. I'm at 1 turn out on the low side. I'm 1.5 turns on the high side.
My pilot jet is a 130 and the main jet is a 165.
I think once I get the pop of set it should be pretty much dialed.
Attachments
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I would try it at 22ish and if it is better try it again at 28ish and if it is even better try it again at 34ish etc until it gets worse then slowly back down.
Well unfortunately a crack formed around the head pipe on my Wetjet pipe. I found the crack was allowing exhaust to leak into the hull most likely causing my most recent tuning issues. This must have occurred fairly recently because I've never had water pool inside of the hull until now. I would have no problem welding the pipe back up and getting it up and running.
I took some time and started thinking it is time to shift gears and maybe go a different direction with my project. I have read the Factory Limited pipe is a popular choice as is the Coffman Sizzler and Riva Red.
I made the choice to throw out a line and see if there are any deals. I narrowed my search for either the Factory or Coffman due to being a low mounted pipe and they appear easier to install and maintain. I prepared myself for an long arduous search. I know the Facory B pipes are often priced well over a $1000 and that was well out of my preferred price range. I have seen horrible looking units sell for $800+. The Coffman was my second choice but seemed to be few and far between.
Yesterday I picked up a great deal on a complete Factory B Limited pipe on here! This place never lets me down! I'll have the pipe in a couple weeks and couldn't be happier.
Now I need to figure out the jetting with this new pipe. I am at 4000-4200 feet above sea level.
My carb currently has a 130 L and 165 H. My popoff is set at 22-24 psi.
Here is a list of what's on the motor:
-Stock flame arrestor with only one screen.
-Wetjet SBN 46mm carb with choke removed and primer installed.
-Wetjet/Westcoast reed stuffer intake manifold.
-Boysen Power two stage reeds.
-Wetjet/Westcoast head with domes for 180-185 psi (165 at my altitude).
-Factory B Limited pipe.
-TDR waterbox.
I believe that's it...
*Anyone have any ideas? I realize I'm in for some tuning and suggestions are purely a starting point. I have a complete Mikuni jet kit, all needles, and springs. I am ready for all combos.
*Also, how do you think this pipe will feel in comparison to my Wetjet pipe? It seemed like the old Black Mamba ripped pretty good.
I took some time and started thinking it is time to shift gears and maybe go a different direction with my project. I have read the Factory Limited pipe is a popular choice as is the Coffman Sizzler and Riva Red.
I made the choice to throw out a line and see if there are any deals. I narrowed my search for either the Factory or Coffman due to being a low mounted pipe and they appear easier to install and maintain. I prepared myself for an long arduous search. I know the Facory B pipes are often priced well over a $1000 and that was well out of my preferred price range. I have seen horrible looking units sell for $800+. The Coffman was my second choice but seemed to be few and far between.
Yesterday I picked up a great deal on a complete Factory B Limited pipe on here! This place never lets me down! I'll have the pipe in a couple weeks and couldn't be happier.
Now I need to figure out the jetting with this new pipe. I am at 4000-4200 feet above sea level.
My carb currently has a 130 L and 165 H. My popoff is set at 22-24 psi.
Here is a list of what's on the motor:
-Stock flame arrestor with only one screen.
-Wetjet SBN 46mm carb with choke removed and primer installed.
-Wetjet/Westcoast reed stuffer intake manifold.
-Boysen Power two stage reeds.
-Wetjet/Westcoast head with domes for 180-185 psi (165 at my altitude).
-Factory B Limited pipe.
-TDR waterbox.
I believe that's it...
*Anyone have any ideas? I realize I'm in for some tuning and suggestions are purely a starting point. I have a complete Mikuni jet kit, all needles, and springs. I am ready for all combos.
*Also, how do you think this pipe will feel in comparison to my Wetjet pipe? It seemed like the old Black Mamba ripped pretty good.
- Location
- Mammoth Lakes CA
That jetting should be close enough to dial it in with your screws
I'm running 120L 150H on my ported 701 with b pipe, wet jet 46 setup
I'm running 120L 150H on my ported 701 with b pipe, wet jet 46 setup
Well here is the next phase of my project. I picked up a Factory Limited setup that is in really good shape. My Wet Jet pipe sadly cracked around the freeze plug and was allowing water and exhaust to enter the hull. Hopefully the Bpipe will help with the tuning headache.
I'm thinking the Wet Jet pipe my have been leaking for a little while which was causing the motor to stall out at high throttle. The jetting I have in now (130l / 165h) should have been pretty fat for my altitude of 4000+. It kept acting like a lean hesitation so I continued to increase the jet size. The only improvement I was able to get was with the stock flame arrestor. I was thinking the SBN46 with the Oceanpro Vortex did not have enough carb signal thus leaning out at high-wide open throttle. I remember Quince mentioned he ran the same intake set up I had and it ripped.
Do you think the open free flowing vortex filter was allowing the exhaust from the leaky pipe enter the carb faster than the stock FA choking out the motor causing my issue?
I downloaded a copy of the installation instructions for the Bpipe and the only modification they recommended was an aftermarket flame arrestor. Should I try the Vortex again? I have the one inch and two inch filter elements available to test. The three options I have are stock with single screen, 1 inch vortex, an two inch vortex I was running before.
I'm thinking the Wet Jet pipe my have been leaking for a little while which was causing the motor to stall out at high throttle. The jetting I have in now (130l / 165h) should have been pretty fat for my altitude of 4000+. It kept acting like a lean hesitation so I continued to increase the jet size. The only improvement I was able to get was with the stock flame arrestor. I was thinking the SBN46 with the Oceanpro Vortex did not have enough carb signal thus leaning out at high-wide open throttle. I remember Quince mentioned he ran the same intake set up I had and it ripped.
Do you think the open free flowing vortex filter was allowing the exhaust from the leaky pipe enter the carb faster than the stock FA choking out the motor causing my issue?
I downloaded a copy of the installation instructions for the Bpipe and the only modification they recommended was an aftermarket flame arrestor. Should I try the Vortex again? I have the one inch and two inch filter elements available to test. The three options I have are stock with single screen, 1 inch vortex, an two inch vortex I was running before.
Attachments
- Location
- Nor Cali
I had a similar issue and it was my on-off-reserve valve. It wasn't opening all the way. I found out by disconnecting it, putting a short hose and blowing through both inlets one at a time while turning the valve and found resistance. I ended up using the reserve as the fuel pick up straight to the carb and the on for my primer and scrapped the valve. If anything, pull the reserve off the valve, use a fuel filter and hook it up to straight to the carb. It can't hurt to try it.
Hi everyone! Well it's getting to be that time where I dust off this project and get back to work. First I'll be removing the wetjet pipe and replacing it with a Factory limited setup. Hopefully this is comparable to before the wetjet pipe cracked.
I am also thinking of changing the intake grate and wanted to hear your thoughts. I ride in a lake which is mostly flat water to mild chop. I ride just recreationally, maybe some bouys once in a while. I currently have a two bar grate now and would like to force a little more water into the pump. What are your thoughts on Worx 201? 205? Or Jet Dynamics? I have also seen a WSM grate which looks very similar to a 205. Has anyone ran the WSN grate? Is there another option you recommend?
I am also thinking of changing the intake grate and wanted to hear your thoughts. I ride in a lake which is mostly flat water to mild chop. I ride just recreationally, maybe some bouys once in a while. I currently have a two bar grate now and would like to force a little more water into the pump. What are your thoughts on Worx 201? 205? Or Jet Dynamics? I have also seen a WSM grate which looks very similar to a 205. Has anyone ran the WSN grate? Is there another option you recommend?