boring exit nozzle

fishinrod

guerrilla steezin
I have a 06 sj with the B-pipe mod chamber, rev limiter cut out and a prop(unknown pitch) but i was wondering if its worth boring the exit nozzle for more bottom end? I see a bunch of people who have done it and it sounds pretty cheap to do? If so whats the best way to explain it to the machine shop? My confusion is in the taper angles. Does the taper angle stay the same and its just bored 2-3mm? Also is it worth lightening the flywheel? Ive heard mixed feelings And what about adding lightweight couplers in addition to the flywheel make difference thats worth the $$$ look forward to hearin some answers since im still learnin everything
thanks rod
 

steve-uk

Manners cost nothing
Location
Barrie - ontario
you can send a stock flywheel to #zero or X2guy on here to have lightened many people doing it.. you can even pick one up already lightened for cheap and then eithe sell yours or keep it

as for purchasing on...probably the best lightweight flywheel to purchase is a TBM but thats the best part of $600, personally i wouldnt bother with a jetenetics
 
Tbm is the one to go with, its very nice. Yes u will feel the diff. But remember if u dont already have a light low profile hood and noce piece, this is somthing really to look at aswell. Lower center of gravity and sheding weight off the ski will help free up hp. carbon or glass rideplate will make a huge diff with lbs in the rear vs ur alum, expect 2 1/2 lbs maybe a bit more there. Get a light 6lbs batt vs ur norm 12/13 lbs batt aswell...thats the best lbs to $ right there. Just some opptions for u.
 

chriselmore_1

high on resin
Location
san jose ca
#0 bored my nozzle to 86.5 tapered at 2.2. he did a killer job and was super quick and cheap.i got to ride it in the surf for about 5 mins total all weekend because my ski was dien but it deff revd up faster and hit harder. i run mine w/ a stock tail cone.
 
Last edited:
I had an 86mil straight bore on at the beginning of last season. I think it worked better with the stock cone than with the Wet wolf. I have an 85 right now. Does the tapered bore really make that big of a difference?
 

fishinrod

guerrilla steezin
lowered nose piece on the way, and i was planning on choppin the stock hood. I know you cant lose that much weight from that but has anyone done this? if so how much weight did they lose on the hood chop if any? what other places are there to lose weight because a 600$tbm is kinda outa the question
 
I have yet to try my reduction nozzle that i just got back form #zero but his communication was great and the nozzle cam back looking factory new and he did a steller job. Heres some pics. When i took my old plastic nozzle off i notice a fin chiped off!

:splatt:
 

Attachments

  • P2070058.JPG
    P2070058.JPG
    170.6 KB · Views: 56
  • P2070063.JPG
    P2070063.JPG
    42.2 KB · Views: 56
  • P2070064.JPG
    P2070064.JPG
    157.3 KB · Views: 55
  • P2070065.JPG
    P2070065.JPG
    161.1 KB · Views: 64
  • P2070066.JPG
    P2070066.JPG
    158.8 KB · Views: 50
  • P2070067.JPG
    P2070067.JPG
    161.4 KB · Views: 62
Location
dfw
You did not mention your impeller, but unless it has been bent very flat boring the nozzle to at least 85mm will make a very noticeable increase in thrust. This is especially so with your mod chamber and the fact that nearly all props are too steep out of the box. Dont worry about the taper, just cut out the siphon and chuck it in a lathe.
 

Waternut

Customizing addict
Location
Macon, GA
I can't say anything for or against the taper boring to 85 or 86mm since I haven't tried one myself but I will say that I had a plastic nozzle that was taper bored to 83mm and a metal nozzle straight bored to 85mm and didn't notice a bit of difference between the two. I was also a little depressed when I got my straight bored nozzle back and the boring was only done about an inch into the nozzle while the rest was untouched.
 
Last edited:
I can't say anything for or against the taper boring to 85 or 86mm since I haven't tried one myself but I will say that I had a plastic nozzle that was taper bored to 83mm and a metal nozzle straight bored to 85mm and didn't notice a bit of difference between the two. I was also a little depressed when I got my straight bored nozzle back and the boring was only done about an inch into the nozzle while the rest was untouched.


obviously you didnt send it to zero! he does a dope job!
:drive:
 

chriselmore_1

high on resin
Location
san jose ca
x2
i just got to try my taper bored nozzle from #0 on flat water for the first time just now and i def feel a difference. it revs up quicker and hits harder for sure. and #0 has killer prices
 
Top Bottom