Other Building a Textreme Hybrid Rickter XFR-LT... maybe, probably, likely, hopefully!

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
So my current thoughts on pump shoe. Please share your thoughts of PM me if you have any advice :)
  1. Thrust said I have the right one just cut and grind current one to fit, that's what they do.
or
  1. Buy a OEM style WB2 plastic one from JM $110. Is strength and fit OK? Holes for intake grate are already drilled, hope they line up.
  2. Buy a Jet Dynamics OEM style 155 from JM $117) Hows the fit? Holes for intake grate are already drilled, hope they line up.
I guess I'll think on it today and either hack tonight or order something else....
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
From this I new I would need to move the hull side hood hooks as far forward as I could. I started by moving these forward and as “square” as I could. I then left the hood prongs on loose and latched the hood down. With it latched, I pressed down on the front of the hood and tightened the top hood prong bolt since I could get a wrench on it. I tightened everything down and tried a paper test to see how the hood sealed. The hood latched fairly tight. The two papers on top were the only ones that pulled out.
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I decided to break down the paper to smaller strips to get a better reading on where I didn't have a good seal. After more reading of the hood and tweaking on the prongs and hooks I ended up with a decent seal. The papers in my hand are the only ones I could pull out. This was the best I could get it and called it good for now. She will run this way until I have a problem or learn a way to do it better.
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Looks good. RRP adjustable latch will help to tighten the rear clamp force if needed.
 

JetManiac

Stoked
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
orlando
Oem pump shoe for life ✌
If I ever build up another hull OEM.

Not possible for 155 or larger pumps. Only oem 155 pump shoe was the B2 shoe and it was discontinued, it was also much larger in the front horns area and would only fit hulls specifically designed for b2 shoes like early air blair hulls.


So my current thoughts on pump shoe. Please share your thoughts of PM me if you have any advice :)
  1. Thrust said I have the right one just cut and grind current one to fit, that's what they do.
or
  1. Buy a OEM style WB2 plastic one from JM $110. Is strength and fit OK? Holes for intake grate are already drilled, hope they line up.
  2. Buy a Jet Dynamics OEM style 155 from JM $117) Hows the fit? Holes for intake grate are already drilled, hope they line up.
I guess I'll think on it today and either hack tonight or order something else....


Thrust said I have the right one just cut and grind current one to fit, that's what they do.
Best option, but it is strange that an RRP shoe does not fit well on a RRP hull.


Buy a OEM style WB2 plastic one from JM $110. Is strength and fit OK? Holes for intake grate are already drilled, hope they line up.
Not an option as mentioned above.


Buy a Jet Dynamics OEM style 155 from JM $117) Hows the fit? Holes for intake grate are already drilled, hope they line up.
RRP is a nicer casting, but not sure which would fit into your hull easier.
 
Last edited:

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
@JetManiac thank you for your time and advice. Much appreciated.

It looks like I'll do as I was told and grind the one I have to fit. Plus, I have it in hand and can get it done and glued in tonight.

I wasn't questioning, it's just hard to believe the hull is made to accept no off the shelf shoe. Custom skis, custom problems :)

Thank you all for your input and feedback!
 
Location
V-town
I have a JD version going in my WDK RIP right now. Lots of grinding and test fitting. I am not in love with how it fits. But I guess that is how they fit...

I had to grind to get it to sit lower in the hull and really take a lot of meat off the ears to fit the intake cavity.
 

2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
After a big breakfast, full pot-o-joe, and catching up on the X, I was able to make some real good progress SUnday!

I started by assembling the handle pole, well taking pictures of it all first that is.
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Now on to the tools. Time to build steering. This is the only part in this ski that came with instructions, so I used them :) One deviation, I chose to add some washed to the base mount.
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No Marine grease on hand, but this will do for now.
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Trust no bolt. Zerk fitting was on from the factory but still needed a few turns of the wrench in my hands. When mounting the bar clamps you can mount over the pivot or ⅝ of an inch back. I went with OVP to start.
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I went with RRP fat bars as well and like the marks to get it centered. Not sure about the degree marks, but the hatches helped find center.
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On to the steering stop. I see it comes with a riser, tho I dont know yet if I need it in my application. It proved hard to turn the bolt underneath and not twist the stop in place. After some tries I was able to use the bars to hold it in place.
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Time to fit he chin pad and see if I need the riser. Yup, I did. Bars hit without it.
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Now onto the tubes. Again, with no experience and no instructions I made it up as I went.
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Top half slid in this far easily and then stopped. I used some tape to keep a reference on the top part of the tubes I wanted facing up. Some of the carbon had small blems I chose to hide underneath.
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With some light tapes from the persuader, I was able to get the top halves in to the third bolt.
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Time to start the bottom. It was very tight so I tired some windex as lube and a cedar chim to open up the handle pole some.
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Struggling on the bottom, at this point I decided to pull the tops out, tap in the bottoms, then slide the easy top on. It was a success, mostly.
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
I threw it on the ski to check length. Looks good enough to try before cutting any tubes.
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I'm not sure how far the tubes need to go in. I opted to go just to the third bolt in each, allowing me full clamp pressure as well as the ability to push both the top and bottom in an additional inch if I want a shorter pole. I did wind up scratching one tube. Upset but nothing I can do.
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It was now time to rob some easy parts from my donor ski. Off with the trim and throttle levers.
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Time to mount up the rest of the bar options. I had ordered and intended to use some red or blue colors but after a few minor issues and varying colors, chose to keep the black form the old ski.
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I have some colored washers on hand and played around with the steering stop. In the end I like blue because it carries through from the actual steering stop. Also, this ski needs more blue in my opinion.
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
With the pole thrown aside (won’t mount until I install pump shoe) I began assembling my pump.

I'm excited to run a pump that I don't think many know of yet but should! I bought this from @sasquatchcrap. He machines the outside of a brand new 4 stroke ski OEM 160 down to fit our hulls. It runs a WB2 155 wear ring, or you can buy a 160 wear ring. I am running a 155. I'm not saying this is better than a big boy pump, but at half the cost I’m sure I’ll be happy. One downside is that there are no tail cone options at this time. When I ordered the OEMs stators were on backstock so he generously sold me his own that was already blueprinted at no additional cost to help me meet my time crunch. Rebuilt with new bearings and new shaft.
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Time to fit the prop. Stock washer. Nope.
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Thinnest I have from mcmaster… Yup. But it looks like I could still send her out later and have it cut back another 4mm.
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Inspecting the used wear ring. Looks good as new to me. Tight no more then 1mm all the ware around when spinnign prop.
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2lick

Brap!!!
Location
Limerick, PA
Time to fix up the reduction nozzle. I noticed the turn nozzle hits a factory fitting one way and stops from full turn. I’ll wait until it's on the ski to see if the cable even throws this far.
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I’m impressed how tight the trim ring is the allowing less blow out.
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Definitely want to cut out and plug the unused fittings siphon/rooster.

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The trim doesn't “seem” to have as much throw as my old one on the 144. The trim ring hits the reduction nozzle fairly early. I'll run as is and grind modify later if unhappy.
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