SXR Building the best SX-R race engine! Why not DASA?

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Interesting how the OP ask a question, then never responds back.......

I have a big question.

What Racing Class?

Limited, SuperStock, Mod, Open, GP.......... Depending on which class depends on what motor and mods.
 
I'm running an "a" cyl with a 6 mm small pin stroker crank. Fully ported with total loss and custom mag pump aside from world finals stuff there isn't any triples that can beat my ski to the first turn. It hails butt and is super reliable. Did I mention it revs 8500 rpm in the water
 
I'm running an "a" cyl with a 6 mm small pin stroker crank. Fully ported with total loss and custom mag pump aside from world finals stuff there isn't any triples that can beat my ski to the first turn. It hails butt and is super reliable. Did I mention it revs 8500 rpm in the water
On pump gas and only costs $1,000 for motor and Elc (Kawi 1100)
 
A triple doesn't wear you out as fast on the course as we'll cause it is lenuer power a twin comes on the pipe hard and yanks ya so makes it harder to race the course, and wears you out.
 

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
I think with the small bearing issue, I am going to keep my stock motor, but get it ported..... I do too many WOT runs and am always on the throttle. I do freerde, but I also do a lot of 'long' rides and think I'll be replacing cranks or blowing that sucker up before the season ends.
 
I'm running an "a" cyl with a 6 mm small pin stroker crank. Fully ported with total loss and custom mag pump aside from world finals stuff there isn't any triples that can beat my ski to the first turn. It hails butt and is super reliable. Did I mention it revs 8500 rpm in the water

Come to the tour races, there are a few sxr1100s that would take that bet. lol

SM
 
I'm running an "a" cyl with a 6 mm small pin stroker crank. Fully ported with total loss and custom mag pump aside from world finals stuff there isn't any triples that can beat my ski to the first turn. It hails butt and is super reliable. Did I mention it revs 8500 rpm in the water

Yeah oooookay
Had lots of twins, full blown open motors would last 10 hrs of ride time. Maybe more if your just a Rec rider hot dogging around. The triples are more reliable, faster, smoother power, and the extra weight helps you hook up more.
In terms of p/v on a race ski there is hardly a point unless u corner slow as Snot. During a race your motor spends almost all its time revved right out, theres maybe 1/4 second coming out of the corner where a pv would be closed. Rec riding it would help for a bit more down low grunt.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 
PVs are more than just grunt at lower rpm. They allow you to raise the ports on a motor without losing all of the bottom end port timing. That's why XPs, XPLs, GPRs, Pros, etc have PVs. Set up right, a PV motor will always have more power from top to bottom than a non pv motor. There is a reason why all of the mod race motors from team kawi, SD and Yamaha were PV motors.

SM
 
Location
Sofia
Hi Mentzel,
I am trying ti build my sxr 800 with dasa 900 engine. Until this moment i have met a lot of pain in the ass issues.. would you help me to finish this project with some suggestions about your experience. I have modified little bit the exhaust muffler of factory dry pipe and it finally fits. I have made a lot of cuts on the boat to fit the dry pipe. In sxr 800 engine there was no this fiting problem. It is still very hard to put. I have 2 water pisser on the head and two each side (back and forward) on the ciliynder. I have 4 pissers out. I am not sure how to make the waterlines the best way. I see that you did this back to 2013 but i hope you can help me.

With kind regards,
Teodor
 

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Location
Ak
Hi guys

Hard to believe this post is 10 years old. Now I feel old. Ha!

Amazingly I still have this ski. (Monster Dasa 900 SXR). Its the fastest SX-R I have ridden, (mid 60s) So I kept it mint and only ride occasionally. Parts are now very rare for this engine so I don’t want to grenade it..


.
48f333d21294248b669df9574bfd0b1a.jpg
 
Location
Ak
I have a water routing diagram I’ll dig out. I published this to Dasa, 10 years ago and they started adding the side ports which are needed to keep hot spots from forming.

Basically its a dual line cooling setup off the pump. (1) line for exhaust cooling and (1) for engine cooling.


What parts do you have for the build?
 
Location
Ak
Also note the manifold to cylinder gaskets, need to be custom cut to allow proper flow. I may still have a few sets. The Factory dry pipe manifold does not match perfectly to the cylinder.

Also I had to back the compression way down to eliminate the mid range hit with dry pipe. It was almost uncontrollable with high compression.

Larry Mentzel
 
Location
Sofia
Hi Lary, i am happy to meet you here again :)



I use :

pro igni 800

Factory dry pipe

144mm jet pump

Novi-tec carbs 48mm

V force 3 valve system

Tdr waterbox



I hit the problem with the factory dry pipe manifold. I have drilled the holes and make some cuts to fit to the ciliynder head. I also made new cuts of the boat to fit the dry pipe but it is still close to the side board of the boat. Also it hits the engine to the plastic caps so i am going to use rubber hammer for the pipe. I did new brackets for the ruberr mounts. I also did new pisser out, so i have 4 pissers now, but i realize that i need only 3 :(

What about this cut manifold(cylinder gaskets) about the flow?



Here i will upload my waterline scheme, also some pics from dry pipe contacts.

Happy to see your feedbacks :)))

Best regards,
Teodor Deyanov

@Mentzel
 

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Location
LOTO
I'm no expert, but I have never seen water routing like that. I would think one water line in to manifold and one split in two, each going to the side of each cylinder. Then one out from each side of the head, not two out from one side only.
 
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