Other DASA 850PV cooling

Steve at KOMMANDER suggests adding a cooling line into the motor tapped into the water jacket towards the top of the head on the side it cooled my right down. I also went with parallel cooling to keep the exhaust a little cooler.
 

Frosty

New York Crew
Location
Western New York
Steve at KOMMANDER suggests adding a cooling line into the motor tapped into the water jacket towards the top of the head on the side it cooled my right down. I also went with parallel cooling to keep the exhaust a little cooler.

you mean on the exhaust side of the cylinder right? that's interesting. can you post of diagram of your water routing?

Whats everyone using as resistors? Trying to find something locally I can drill out

restrictors? I'm not running any.
 

schicks

Karma Enforcer
Location
West Michigan
Was there a conclusion? Im having the exact same issue, with same traditional water routing setup.

Pisser temp is 95 deg, luke warm, pipe is cool, motor is hot.
 
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I set my superfreak up this way and will do all future ski builds the same. 2- 1/2 od lines from the pump to a 2 -1/2 inlet- 4 3/8 outlet manifold. 2 3/8 lines fees the engine exhaust manifold and out to 2 pissers, 1-3/8 line feeds headpipe and out to a pisser. The 4th 3/8 line feeds the flow control valve to the stinger. Setting up this way allows the use of restrictors in the bypass lines if more water flow is needed to dial in the temps of the engine, headpipe and stinger.
 

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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
I set my superfreak up this way and will do all future ski builds the same. 2- 1/2 od lines from the pump to a 2 -1/2 inlet- 4 3/8 outlet manifold. 2 3/8 lines fees the engine exhaust manifold and out to 2 pissers, 1-3/8 line feeds headpipe and out to a pisser. The 4th 3/8 line feeds the flow control valve to the stinger. Setting up this way allows the use of restrictors in the bypass lines if more water flow is needed to dial in the temps of the engine, headpipe and stinger.
Interesting, You can go to the stinger from the headpipe outlet, Then use the 4th Line as a dedicated flush!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

schicks

Karma Enforcer
Location
West Michigan
I set my superfreak up this way and will do all future ski builds the same. 2- 1/2 od lines from the pump to a 2 -1/2 inlet- 4 3/8 outlet manifold. 2 3/8 lines fees the engine exhaust manifold and out to 2 pissers, 1-3/8 line feeds headpipe and out to a pisser. The 4th 3/8 line feeds the flow control valve to the stinger. Setting up this way allows the use of restrictors in the bypass lines if more water flow is needed to dial in the temps of the engine, headpipe and stinger.
Interesting. Thanks, i might widdle up a manifold all 1/4npt 3/8 fittings. Looks like i have 1/8npt on the manifold too, which prolly isnt helping.

I just added 2 more fittings on the head and out the scupper, easy to try. Will test tomorrow with a temp gun.

I am running 2 - 3/8 lines off the pump, but i dont think thats the issue, seen plenty of people do it.
 
I'm running an 1100 with pfp and a standalone manifold. I have 2 half inch lines off the bulkhead to 1/4 npt into the manifold. Each out of the manifold is a 1/8 npt. 2 to each cylinder. 2 to the pfp manifold. And1 to the chamber. The pipe dumps athe the stinger into the waterbox.

No overheating at all. Lights right off the low end. No restrictions besides the standard fcf that came with the pfp.
 
Interesting, You can go to the stinger from the headpipe outlet, Then use the 4th Line as a dedicated flush!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That was an option, I made some fittings that slide right into the pisser outlets to flush the engine out. I just wanted more water pressure on the flow control valve so it opens and closes better.
Interesting. Thanks, i might widdle up a manifold all 1/4npt 3/8 fittings. Looks like i have 1/8npt on the manifold too, which prolly isnt helping.

I just added 2 more fittings on the head and out the scupper, easy to try. Will test tomorrow with a temp gun.

I am running 2 - 3/8 lines off the pump, but i dont think thats the issue, seen plenty of people do it.
I got the manifold and fittings from mcmaster. I also used some quick connect fittings for ease of engine removal and installation so I don't have to deal with hose clamps.
 

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Careful with those Quick-Connect Fittings. They can fail and cut-off flow...

Had this happen with "Tusk" brand Fuel Quick-Connects. Worked like a charm for a couple of months and was slick being able to pull the Carbs without having to pull hoses off the Carb Nipples... https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-fuel-line-quick-connect-p says "no longer available", wonder why?

But after a couple of months, one of the Quick-Connects failed and completely blocked the Fuel Supply. Fortunately, the Engine just wouldn't run, so it didn't go lean and fry my Engine.

Tusk Fuel Line Quick Release.jpg
 

schicks

Karma Enforcer
Location
West Michigan
I had those quick connect shutoff fittings on mine as well, and i thought that was my problem, but its not. I left them off because of the flow restriction they have. Blowing threw them proved they are quite restrictive. Mine had the shut off feature tho.
 
I could see that happening with the crappy fuel we get to use as ethanol fuel is corrosive, I don't think they'll cause an issue with water. I've been running this setup for a solid year now with no issues
 

schicks

Karma Enforcer
Location
West Michigan
My ir gun wasnt working right, had to go off the hand guesstimation.

Routed 2 more lines off the head and out the scupper. Motor ran cool (about 701 temp) pipe ran hotter, which i expected. So i know what i need to do now.
 
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