Brian, this is out of my blaster. I have it pulled apart right now getting it reinforced and I'm generally going over all the components (as I do every winter).
OEM shaft - looks aftermarket (no taper)
Shaft Run Out amount - OEM drive train including dowl pins so I assume was ok.
How was allignment - good as far as I know. I now have the CF tool so I'll be using it when I put it back in.
If you have the shaft out of the pump throw it in some V blocks, put a dial indicator on it and see how bent it is to tell shaft run out. You can also do in a lathe. All that power your making may have bent the shaft causing some wobble and wear. If you have DS wear, you may have internal mid shaft wear. Clean and inspect with a light and magnification if necessary to determine condition of internal splines in midshaft.
That shaft is still useable- looks dry unless you cleaned it. Be sure to replace the 2 o rings inside the midshaft so the grease does not wash out right away.
Thats not too bad. Clean all the crap out of the mid shaft, the splines, and shaft tunnel. Make it perfectly clean and reassemble with fresh grease. ANY grit will take out the splines.
sneds, your midshaft is in sad shape. However, since it's over $250 to replace midshaft and driveshaft, you might consider using the old until they strip (that will happen suddenly and without warning- so don't get too far from shore). It is absolutely mandatory that you replace the two "o" rings in the midshaft, otherwise the grease will (!) wash out in minutes and the shaft will strip soon thereafter. I buy those o rings in bulk (Buna N) and could send you a couple.
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