Other Epic Timing Question

AtomicPunk

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Not sure what motor you are running but they can/will load two curves. One more aggressive than the other. Install a waterproof toggle or one of the rotary switches and you are in like flynn
 

Buckwild12

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What do you do if you are a Tard? My epic is installed and I have no idea where to begin, my motor is a Jetmaniac 710, I run 93 octane and amsoil dominator at 40/1 per Jetmaniac. I was told the epic curves that come preinstalled are good, and I've heard that they are too conservative. My ski is in a million pieces waiting for the new hull to get here so I cant really experiment at this time.

Anyone have a curve that will hit noticably better than the stock cdi I had in before. Also I hooked it up per the diagram in the literature, but I have extra parts, I have another splitter and the red from the start stop switch is still not connected. I do some more research online and I'm sure I can find the answer unless someone wants to save me some of the legwork and help a brother out. Ultimately I'd like one curve I can ride aggressively, but I still need the ability to go wide open we run down alot of boats, and one that I can use in the surf. I ride flat water sometimes too. So should I rock 3 curves. I pretty much don't know where to begin if you can't tell:)
 
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steve-uk

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Barrie - ontario
the extra splitter in there should be what you need...

ill check through the library of curves i have from atp and see what i have, but the curve thats in there a standard should give you performance improvent over a stock cdi and msd enhancer
 
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Aircraftsalz

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Off site
What do you do if you are a Tard? My epic is installed and I have no idea where to begin, my motor is a Jetmaniac 710, I run 93 octane and amsoil dominator at 40/1 per Jetmaniac. I was told the epic curves that come preinstalled are good, and I've heard that they are too conservative. My ski is in a million pieces waiting for the new hull to get here so I cant really experiment at this time.

Anyone have a curve that will hit noticably better than the stock cdi I had in before. Also I hooked it up per the diagram in the literature, but I have extra parts, I have another splitter and the red from the start stop switch is still not connected. I do some more research online and I'm sure I can find the answer unless someone wants to save me some of the legwork and help a brother out. Ultimately I'd like one curve I can ride aggressively, but I still need the ability to go wide open we run down alot of boats, and one that I can use in the surf. I ride flat water sometimes too. So should I rock 3 curves. I pretty much don't know where to begin if you can't tell:)

Chris (Jetmaniac) has a curve hes running that hits very nice... Did you get the lead & software with the Epic? If so I got some curves I can email you
 

Buckwild12

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Thanks steve! It's a pretty stock motor, but it should feel a whole lot better because my new ski is going to be a whole lot lighter than my old hull. Any help with curves would be greatly appreciated! I know how to pull things apart and put them back together, but tuning is something I am goin to have to work on. and I love learning about how changes effect performance, but I don't want to kill my motor in the process.
 

Buckwild12

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Or one to the fuse and the other to the cdi? I guess I need to learn how to read a diagram, as I said before I'm a Tard when it comes to some things
 
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steve-uk

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Location
Barrie - ontario
ill email you the epic instructions, i just checked and it shows how where to connet the jumper and the start/stop switch (item 2) on the wiring diagram
 

steve-uk

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Barrie - ontario
attachment.php


connect the red jumper between the red from the start/stop/rectifier and the fuse/cdi
 
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QJS

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I'll try to write some guidelines out later today if I can find time.....Also I spent a day last week with an EPIC on a dyno on an engine that was also run with a stock ignition, it is fascinating stuff and I have a lot of facts and figures that are really interesting. All the runs are on video but I am having a problem getting them off and onto the computer at the moment but as soon as I do I will post it all up.
Chris.
 
Also I spent a day last week with an EPIC on a dyno on an engine that was also run with a stock ignition, it is fascinating stuff and I have a lot of facts and figures that are really interesting.
Chris.

props to you for following through on that,at long last someone has some........facts and is willing to post vids of getting them
 

QJS

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Here's a few guidelines for a typical stock stroke/B pipe with a head and pump gas. I am also assuming the riding style is freestyle/freeride and not racing.
Below 3000 rpm not a lot is really happening, for this reason I would suggest not using max advance, your engine won't be happy idling at 32* advance, nor will it enjoy a mile long no wake zone. I normally run 15 -17* up to 1500 rpm (idle) and then start bringing in more advance gradually until max advance which I reach at about 3000 rpm. All of this area is pretty safe to play around with bearing in mind my comments above. You may decide to bring max advance in later for example, this is fine.
This brings us to maximum advance. Its actually quite difficult to deto an engine that fits into the parameters above as long as you get off max timing at the right time, I would say that 22* would be a safe minimum and I have run 36* with no problem but remember these are guidlines so please use them as such, I would also like repeat that this is freestyle riding which tends to be more forgiving than racing.
Back in a minute, I have to swap computers.......
 
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