Fiberglass damage :(

C

Chris15

Location
New Jersey
Anyone have any ideas?

095075b6941e2e4a0c669356ad95b32b.jpg




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x2mafia

x2mafia

Maximum effort
Location
WA
I'm still trying to figure out what's going on with the top half of the ski I couldn't honestly tell what was up or what the area of concern was.
 
Vumad

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Chris15 said:
08c33d3fc43b36ac6ba844328128a4a6.jpg



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Click to expand...

What i would do is...

Put drywall mud on the top and make it back to normal shape. Sands really easy. Clean it up well and either A) cover it in packing tape or B) wax and pva it really good (or both) drywall mud is still porous when dry so you have to seal it good.

Then layup a mold of the aera over this drywall mud patch.

Let the mold cure, remove it, clean out the dry wall (comes off super easy) and grind out the damage.

This will leave gaps of course, but thats where the mold you made comes in. Just prep the mold and attach it somehow.

Layup the repair, remove the mold, light body work, paint.

This is what i call the "on the part" method.

Alternatively you could
leave it be
just slap some glass over it
Grind it out and wing it, or make a mold of some sort out of foam, metal tape, etc

I just found that shaping it with drywall mud, making amold then laying up a repair makes for excellent results with minimal effort. I use 5 minute drywall, can shape with your hands when wet, scrape with a putty jnife when green and sand nicely when dry. Have had great results.

You can make the mold from poly and chop to save time and money as long as the repair is epoxy and cloth
 
WB1994

WB1994

Location
Amherst NH
Vumad said:
What i would do is...

Put drywall mud on the top and make it back to normal shape. Sands really easy. Clean it up well and either A) cover it in packing tape or B) wax and pva it really good (or both) drywall mud is still porous when dry so you have to seal it good.

Then layup a mold of the aera over this drywall mud patch.

Let the mold cure, remove it, clean out the dry wall (comes off super easy) and grind out the damage.

This will leave gaps of course, but thats where the mold you made comes in. Just prep the mold and attach it somehow.

Layup the repair, remove the mold, light body work, paint.

This is what i call the "on the part" method.

Alternatively you could
leave it be
just slap some glass over it
Grind it out and wing it, or make a mold of some sort out of foam, metal tape, etc

I just found that shaping it with drywall mud, making amold then laying up a repair makes for excellent results with minimal effort. I use 5 minute drywall, can shape with your hands when wet, scrape with a putty jnife when green and sand nicely when dry. Have had great results.

You can make the mold from poly and chop to save time and money as long as the repair is epoxy and cloth
Click to expand...
Use blue painters tape instead of mud. It will lay flat over all the cracks n crevices. Pop the part your making off of the ski/blue tape before the part fully cures becaust the blue masking tape comes off the back of the part easier. No need to make the bondrail perfect for the mold because your just covering it up anyways and all your doing is making the underside of the part nice which will be face down in glue anyways and unseen.

If it was mine i would grind out the cracks, make an epoxy paste with fiberglass shavings in it and fill all the parts on the bondrail and sand/finish . I would then reinforce from the inside .
 
C

Chris15

Location
New Jersey
I really appreciate the help guys, I will be doing more research on it.


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